K so i bought a 97 civic ex with a blown engine, I fixed that. Now i have power windows that arent working. I haved taken apart all of the doors to figure about what is wrong with thing. none of the windows are rolling down. Its a 4 door so I started with the Driver side and I am not getting power to the motor its self. I have checked all the fused that go to all 4 doors and they are good. I gave up on the driver side and move to the rear left. Now this one will roll down but wont roll back up. unless i flip the connectors and it will roll up. but the master switch wont roll it down or up? any suggestions?

 

K so i checked the Master switch and when its unplugged im getting power on b2 and b8 but when plugged in i get power when moving the switches to b1, b8, b9, b10, and b11. also i checked both terminals on fuse 10 and 11 and they both have power to them. any suggestions?

 

With the key in ON(II), check installed fuses 7 and 11 for battery voltage on both top test tabs. If only one tab has voltage, the fuse is blown.

Do the front and rear passenger windows currently work?

 

Checked fused 7 and 11 and both of them and both posts carry 12V's. no the passenger and passenger rear do not roll down. the drive rear only rolls down but not up.

Thank you RONJ

 

It would help if you would summarize what works and doesn't. For example:

Which of the switches in the driver's master switch assembly will move a window? Up or down?

Which of the switches in other doors will move their window? Up or down?
-----------------------------

With the key in ON(II), do voltage tests with the unplugged wire-harness connector of the master switch at all of the following pins:

B15, B8, B2, B3 (all should have battery voltage to body ground)



-------------------

All wires for the power windows must run from the cabin into the driver's door. Due to frequent opening and closing of this door, the constant flexing of the wire harness at the junction point can break some wires. Expose all wires in the door jam to see whether any is broken.


.

 

Sorry I should have clarified that. the master switch doesnt roll down any of the windows. the driver side rear window rolls down with the switch on the door but will not roll back up.

I used my multimeter on the pins stated above and could only get `power from B2 (12V) with the master switch plug unconnected by grounding the black probe on a known ground and the red probe on the pin.

Im going to see if i can get into the door wiring right now.

Right now im c

 

I should also note that none of my power locks are working either so that might be the cuprit

 

RonJ your ****ing awesomei have had to deal with. Any suggestions on what i need to do to fix it? the easiest sollution?

 

<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x472/JDMSpeedShop01/?action=view&amp;current=****edupharness.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x472/JDMSpeedShop01/****edupharness.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

The name of your picture contains a phrase that our word filter is rejecting. Rename the picture file and then repost.

 

 

Holy crap! You can be confident that you found the problem.

You probably need to get the same connector (with 5-6 inches of attached wire) from a 96-98 Civic EX at a junk yard and then solder and shrink wrap the wires.

 

So after 5 junk yards and I finally found one but it had some cracked wires too, but i have about a foot if extra wire from the new harness Is there any way I can de-pin the green connector and re-pin it?? RonJ thank you for helping me out, I guess thats why my power locks werent working either.

 

I haven't repinned a connector, so I can't help there. Maybe one of our super star connector repinning experts can help you.

Otherwise, solder and shrink wrap will do the trick.

You're very welcome and most definitely. Good luck with the fix.

 

good god, that's some gouged up door harness. I had the same thing almost when i bought the doors to do the conversion once. The connector was gone completely. My base car (dx) floor harness did not have door connector at all, only one wire for speaker. So i built one, fairly easily. I dont remember now it was either an accord or later model civic that i found in the junkyard, I just got a harness with the same number of wires, then cut the wires on the door harness on my door and made new connectors. There is enough room in the kick panel to accommodate some length of wire.

Find a car with the door harness plug of similar or smaller size so you can put it through the hole behind the fender and the door. With the same or more amount of wires. Cut the door harness and floor harness inside that car with some length of wire.

cut this harness plug on your door, reconnect on either side, matching wires. You will probably only need the orange clip to hold the rubber covering boot. And never have to worry about a short in this harness plug. Better yet, get enough wire from the donor car so you can dangle the new plugs inside the door or the kickpanel.

 

I used to use stuff like this back in my PC modding days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B000NBU22W

But a pin should work just as well. Some connectors have a flap that you have to pull back to depress the tabs in the pins though.