Advice needed; Very Rough Idle & No Rev
Alright well just recently my Integra; B18A1 bottom end with a B16 SIR head, has been idling very rough, like the motor shakes badly, and when I go to rev the engine it just won't rev the RMPs move very slowly when I depress the pedal, like it's in limp mode, any ideal what could be wrong? It was running fine the day before, and I just took it around the block that day and didn't even go over 30, pulled it into the garage and the next day tried to turn it on and got this. Here's a video of exactly what's happening to mine; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IL2fKZ1z84
I've read that it could be a bent valve, timing skipped a tooth, or just anything really? But I ran a compression test and got 150psi across all 4 cylinders.
Any help would greatly be appreciated! And if I missed any info. just let me know. Thanks
I've read that it could be a bent valve, timing skipped a tooth, or just anything really? But I ran a compression test and got 150psi across all 4 cylinders.
Any help would greatly be appreciated! And if I missed any info. just let me know. Thanks
Ok check that all cylinders are Firing it seams like ur runing on 3 cylinders make sure u get spark on all 4 and also fuel
Move the distibuetor to check ur timeing left or right if u notice improvment it could be ur timeing
Also if u checked the compresion and it give u 150 is not a valve & not sure but i think neather ur timeing
Move the distibuetor to check ur timeing left or right if u notice improvment it could be ur timeing
Also if u checked the compresion and it give u 150 is not a valve & not sure but i think neather ur timeing
you can check belt timing easy enough since you aren't running the highly suggested for a street car plastics.
could be running on 3 cylinders as others have mentioned. check the plugs, switch out a set of wires. unclip injectors one at a time. if you unhook one and nothing changes you have your problem.
ive never seen a distributor do this but it's possible. usually they work or they don't
by the way 150psi of compression is low for your setup. are you using one of those stupid steel tube adapters to do the test? if so that could be the issue for the numbers
do a vacuum test while you're at it. pay close attention to if the needle is stable or if it's fluttering
could be running on 3 cylinders as others have mentioned. check the plugs, switch out a set of wires. unclip injectors one at a time. if you unhook one and nothing changes you have your problem.
ive never seen a distributor do this but it's possible. usually they work or they don't
by the way 150psi of compression is low for your setup. are you using one of those stupid steel tube adapters to do the test? if so that could be the issue for the numbers
do a vacuum test while you're at it. pay close attention to if the needle is stable or if it's fluttering
Alright well I pulled the spark plug wires as the car was running and cylinder #4 (farthest from the distributor) as I pulled the wire the idle stayed the same. And also I didn't hear any ticking noise coming from the wire, so I'm guessing I'm getting no spark to this wire?
first off #1 is ALLWAYS the one closest to the Crank pulley so your #1 cylender is Crap.
and 90% of the B and D honda engines spec for a Min compression of 158PSI you should be seing Higher number's then Stock B18A/B.
So is the Cat pluged?
did you do a Valve adjust and get it to tight?
also did you remember to hold the throttle WOT?
and 90% of the B and D honda engines spec for a Min compression of 158PSI you should be seing Higher number's then Stock B18A/B.
So is the Cat pluged?
did you do a Valve adjust and get it to tight?
also did you remember to hold the throttle WOT?
so you either have a bad wire or bad injector. now you need to find out which.
good excuse for a new set of ngk wires
if that fixes it great, if not there's a great chance the injector on #1 isn't firing
i don't think his #1 is done in, the compression was the same as the other 3. that and he didn't answer about using a tube. those stupid "adapter tubes" lower the numbers
good excuse for a new set of ngk wires
if that fixes it great, if not there's a great chance the injector on #1 isn't firing
i don't think his #1 is done in, the compression was the same as the other 3. that and he didn't answer about using a tube. those stupid "adapter tubes" lower the numbers
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Ok man if i did not see or heard any spark is a bad wire or distribuetor the injector has nothing to do whit no sparking ( it could be bouth but highly unlikely) get another wire or a distibuetor cap
wire, cap, injector.
checking for spark should be ideally done in the dark with the plug attached to the wire. if you just put the wire to frame you can kill the coil in no time flat
Alright so I've been checking everything like y'all have been suggesting, and turns out I do have a spark going to 4 cylinders, and everything seems ok with the ignition system. So while the car was running I began pulling one plug at a time (I know, very bad) well as I pulled cylinder 1, 3, and 4 nothing happened and the motor ran the same, but while I pulled cylinder 2's plug it died, so it's running on one cylinder? And I'm guessing it's a fuel problem since I have spark going to all the plugs? I think switched the injector connector from cylinder #2 to #1 and the motor wouldn't start? I'm a little stumped since I'm not that mechanically inclined. But thanks for the help so far
Also when I turn the key to on, I hear the little buzzing sound of the fuel
And yes I used the tube type compression tester.
Also when I turn the key to on, I hear the little buzzing sound of the fuel
And yes I used the tube type compression tester.
The engine wouldn't run on one cylinder. I had this same issue and it was caused by a bad plug wire. If you don't have a spark tester go with racebum's advise. Pull each spark plug, reattach them to the wires and crank the engine, look to see if all four are arching. If one doesn't spark it is most likely a bad wire. If they all spark, reinstall the plugs and wires. Start the engine and unplug one injector at a time. If the engine stumbles or dies, that injector is good. If nothing happens you have found a faulty injector. To be sure the injector is bad you can get a set of noid lights. Plug the noid light into the injector clip and look for the flash. If the noid light flashes you know the wiring is good and the injector is receiving the signal to fire.
Take it one step at a time, don't throw parts at it and waste your money.
Take it one step at a time, don't throw parts at it and waste your money.
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djlooneyca
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jul 24, 2011 11:55 AM



