Howdy.

Thought I would say hi and slowly copy across my build up of the car and what's happened to it in the last couple of years or so of ownership including pictures of the turbo set-up.

I initially bought it as a run around/stop gap car, as moving from my 306 GTi-6 (and cars such as 106 XSi's, Gti's, etc) I wanted something different like a Stage 3 S14a or a Skyline GTS-t, but there was nothing around at the time that I liked (time of year!?) so opted for this.





When I bought it, I promptly changed the leaking oil sump gasket, and corroded sump pan, oil and filter, replaced the UK restrictive system with a 96 JDM Exhaust header, Cat, B pipe and Tanabe Medallion backbox.

Then it was the bonnet catch which needed fixing, all wheels needed refurbishing, exhaust heat shields removing, seat bolster replacing, cat sticking on (had been borrowing a friends decat) and all the suspension and bodywork as and when it needs sorting, money permitting at the time..

I then took a few cleaner pictures before it would of hit the bodyshop that Wednesday.









I was very nervous as I'd only see a few bits of this guys work...

Into the bodyshop it goes







And a couple of pictures after the inner arches were replaced and the welding was nearly done..





And after getting it back, here's a a couple of dirty/dusty pics.








So next on the hit list is powdercoating the wheels whilst I wait for the paint to harden over the coming weeks.

And a few other little bits like removing the front numberplate surround etc.. Nothing too exciting...

...Had the car rolling roaded! Pretty much standard book figures, with the only modification being a 96 Spec JDM exhaust system with a Tanabe Medallion back box.



Torques a bit wavy, but most importantly for me is that it was pushing more than 145+ at the wheels. I also had a chat with the owner of SR where we had out RR day about turbocharging the Integra.. That was when my bank balance really started to suffer.. Or so I thought...

Refurbed the wheels - It's been a Nitromoors, sand paper, primer, paint and lacquer job!


Nitromoors effects:


First coat - Gives a lovely dark grey effect, close to the standard ITR wheel colour:


But up close it sparkles and looks insane in the sun as shown here by the flash on my phone camera:


In hindsight I didn't use enough lacquer but they looked very nice at the time. BMW Sparkling Graphite Grey AFAIR.

Took some pictures of them on the car...







And then Bought a porter cable polisher from Tesco the other day for a bargain £19.99 - does the job so well! So used to Autoglym super resin polish to remove a few marks and then some Turtlewax to seal it up which I've had knocking around for a few years.

Quite dark shots, and excuse the dings in the doors. Worked a treat though..













It was around September last year that i posted about wanting a turbo set up as my B18C6 block was smoking quite a bit, and a guy called Owen started to tell me about his ITR and this person called "Ricky" that did most of the work on his.. I think the rest was fate..

However after keeping top of things, replacing brake pads and discs, servicing the car, a long drive up to Aviemore, Scotland for snowboarding, I then decided once the MOT was sorted I would put the Integra on the back burner and start seriously putting my house deposit together...

Then

I broke down one night as the accelerator cable somehow became stuck and kept an open full throttle after going into vtec in 3rd. It just wouldn't lift off so after trying to use the brakes and wondering if my clutch was simply slipping, I realised what was happening, so I had to cut the engine at the right time and pull in - luckily I was on a dual carriageway and there wasn't much traffic around at 10pm.

Later that night after being recovered and taken home the car idled fine again but the morning after when driving I seemed to have a totally knackered crank. Not good..

As fate would have it, Someone told me that Race-Tech may have a spare B18 bottom end going about, and he did, albeit a B18C4.. So I went to pick up the engine and then set about some work...

 

As you can see, engines head is off, now it's time for the gearbox to come off



Lifting it out



A few bits on the floor



New F1 Stage 2 clutch (thought this would be enough for the turbo...)



My ITR head bolted to the B18C4 Bottom end, with flywheel, clutch and so forth on!



And here it is being lifted in



To Summarise...

B18C4 Bottom End fitted to my B18C6 ITR head with..
New Cylinder Head gasket
New Genuine Honda Cambelt and Koyo Tensioner/Waterpump
New Goodyear Auxiliary belt
Energy Mount Inserts for Lower Gearbox mount
F1 Stage 2 Racing Clutch
HAMP Oil Filter / Fuchs Titan 10w/40 Oil
New Honda MTF Gearbox Oil (3 litres)
New AntiFreeze

Only hitches during the swap were minor - the auxiliary belt from my ITR bottom end didn't fit this one hence the new one and when priming the pump, I didn't tighten the bolts on the fuel filter so fuel pissed everywhere for a few seconds. So nothing major.

I must admit, driving it around, it didn't feel any slower. I've given it a good clear out engine wise, and a wash.

Oh and most importantly at the time - the deposit for the turbo kit was being paid for...


Had other things done to the car, new oil, new drive shaft oil seals, knock sensor was throwing up codes due to not being tight enough, needed a new thermostat, new rear pads and discs,

And also got this nice little half size radiator and slimline fan so the turbo manifold can fit



New gauges!





Lovely

Then it was time for an uprated exhaust...

 

nice car bro

 

so far cars looking good...great work on the panel repair...

 

Congrats for your build! I am amazed how you managed to remove the rusted parts of the body and how it looks now!

 

looks great, just need to put the side itr decals in the correct location, and remove the rust from the rest of the suspension parts

 

seen it on ek9.org lovely car m8 great build

 

Amazing work on the rust

 

amazing!!!

 

 

Thanks guys. I couldn't of done this without the assistance of some friends though!

The bodywork is still holding up very well still! the paint has flattened a bit though and needs some work putting into it, but the cosmetic things are coming last.

Now onto the exhaust:

Went down to Topgear/Longlife HQ in April 2011 for a custom exhaust set up after speaking with one of the HO guys and they seem to have done good.

I went for a 2.5" set up for the pending turbo being bolted on, with the aims to have something that will give the most performance and flow the most whilst sounding as subtle as possible and for a great price.

After a quick chat with Jason, and Christian who is their head R&D guy who would be making the exhaust, we decided on the tailpipe to choose (I wanted something subtle - nothing to big or typical Jap style, I have a UKDM don't you know) and I let them have their hands on the car.

Enough chit chat. Here are some pictures for you lot! Ignore the rusty underside of the car.. it's one of those jobs I'm going to deal with in 2012..













































I have way more pictures, but there are only so many I have the time to resize and upload!

Granted it was a bit on the loud side, but I expected that, and things will quieten down when the turbo is on, though I am getting used to the exhaust note more and more...

I was sceptical at first, but now I am pleasantly surprised by the company on a whole and I thought that they have done a thorough job. But time will tell as we can only guess until the turbo is bolted on...

 

Old rad out - it was falling to bits!





Then it was a case of getting the new rad sized up. snip some wires off to old fan to use with the new fan loom. make sure the system is fully emptied, etc



Bend a bracket here or there. use a cable tie or two to keep stuff in temp position (handy when there's only one person!) Then bosh, easy as that.



One half size radiator and half depth slimline fan installed with some nice Holts antifreeze for good measure. It's not perfect but it will stay for now until I know exactly where the rad needs to sit after the turbo kit is put in place.

As I already have uprated poly inserts stuck into my gearbox mount, I needed to refresh my other worn engine torque mounts.



One of my old ones with the new ones.



Gearbox feels smoother and tighter, and it feels a bit tighter on turn in, which is nice. I think the bottom mount needs to be fully replaced now though.

Then did a bit of a test mount for 3 of my gauges:



Also had my OEM rear brake discs and pads fitted.

And had it RR'd with my B18C4 bottom end on before it is turbocharged:





Randomly had the numberplate come off, and thought it looked ace so took a couple of pictures.





Also reminds me that I now have USDM side lights as you can tell.





Then after all of this. It was going off for a turbo installation...

 

Outstanding weld work there!

 

Cheers mate.

More updates.

A couple of quick sneeky pictures!

















And now it looks normally. Not very in your face which is nice.



Will update with a current spec sheet over the next day or so.







Due to the rain in the night we woke up to this...



CUE AWESOME BEADING PICTURES! :D









You really need to see the full resolution picture to appreciate the detail in this..



The went out the next day for a play and took some pictures..



















Enjoy

The clutch was really making my gear changes difficult, so I think I may be uprating sooner than planned. Camshaft seals are next (have them already) just need to pick up my new cambelt from Honda....

 

Picture at Sixfields Stadium In Northampton first:



And my shiny new Competition Clutch Stage 4 sprung 6 paddle and lightened flywheel.




Now for the clutch and flywheel!

Teh Teg!


Me actually getting down to business! A rare sight :O


We then realised that we didn't have a breaker bar long enough, nor a hammer big enough (Hey, I'm still amassing my tool kit!) So Matt pop around and lent me his, and whipped the drive shaft out in a couple of seconds too which was kind of him!

We then set about undoing mounts, bolts etc. pain in the *** issues? Gear Linkage pin would not come out so I just undid it from the gear stick side instead of the gearbox side. Couple of bolts were tough but cracked them in the end. Nothing major.

Unfortunately due to my mate understandably not wanting to get his lovely Galaxy S2 dirty, the pictures had to wait for breaks when he could wash his hands and have a cup of tea, so we jump to this:

On the deck


Empty bay


Old clutch


Old pressure plate


Old flywheel


Shiiiiiney, and a little lighter


Bit of a difference...






Annnnnd then it all went back together slowly with some fresh MTF3 gearbox oil. Darkness fell. but we got it sorted in the end.

One of the lower mount bolts was simply too tough so I've had to leave it a few mm out, but it's being changed very shortly (maybe even this weekend) and it's jammed in there safely for now though I'm keeping a daily eye on it. Drivers side Ball joint was a right PITA!!!!!!! Also, forgot to plug in the gearbox speed sensor which threw an engine code.

So not too many hiccups really.

For saying it's a Stage 4, 6 Puck Clutch, the pedal feel is stiffer but more than fine for day to day traffic usage. It's a little juddery in reverse and also slightly in first gear because it pretty much bites and goes, but every other gear is easy and smooth and granted, I've only had 2 days driving it. Overall though, it has improved the feel of the car as it's much more positive clutch, like a couple of my GTi-6's used to be.

Very glad that was all done.

Now excuse the shoddy pictures from my phone, but here's my DIY lower engine mount job:

Standard (Tegiwa) rear engine mount:



Mix-up a little bit from both tubs of poly to a 1:1 weight ratio and pour into spare gaps:



Leave it to set for a few hours, an voilà!



Very easy to make and pour in. Now it's set, it's very, very tough stuff. I left the mount as it was as it was a brand new one anyway, so a little extra stiffness should be enough for me.

My other two torque will get the same treatment as well as I have more enough for them. 8) Much better stuff than Sikaflex/Tigerseal. The bubbles simply pop when pouring so you don't get any trapped air pockets. It starts to become tough after 5 minutes so you need to be quick!

So the mount is in and it's.... Pretty sweet! A little cabin vibration on idle, but has helped the gear change no end and it feels a bit more "pointy" when turning the car. Not has harsh as a GrpN class lower mount but nearly there. Perfect.

 

Went to Mallory Park in December to have a blast around. Was good fun. Slid off Gerard's bend in the early morning due to it being wet with my tyres still quite cold (no talent), which I have on video, and had an over steer moment a short while later.. Which I also have a video of :lol: but once it dried out it was fine.

Brakes and tyres took a slight hammering, but overall it was a good day. Could only do a few warm up laps and then 4/5/6 laps before it got too hot (300f+) :shock: so had a lot of short trips out. Really brought to light where I need to spend my money next.







Really fun track.

You can see mine after its little "mud bath" hehe




Oh and also got it weighed in...



1075kg - nay bad for it being standard aside from the rear seats, parcel shelf and boot floor out.

Matt's DC5 was awesome. So stiff, gripped well, sounded awesome and punching above its weight as per.

Warm up laps -
Warm Up Laps - Turbocharged UKDM DC2 Honda Integra Type R - YouTube

Me blasting around once then letting Matt take over me as I was blates holding him up haha.

Honda Integra DC2 and DC5 @ Mallory Park - YouTube

low-low-boost DC2 with sloppy 110k suspension, standard brakes, old fluid, road tyres and a retard driving does not compare to a DC5 with 245BHP K-series, coilovers, semi-slicks, proper brakes and a more confident driver

Really does go to show that although my brakes are more than fine for road use and the suspension is workable, on track it highlights how useless it is having extra power when you either can't use it fully due to suspension and road tyres and that the extra power kills off your brakes even more quickly.

Oh and just for laughs..

Just a bit too over eager really... (Mallory Park) 3/12/11 - YouTube

"Just a bit too over eager really" hehe. Me and my mate in the car were absolutely killing ourselves over a few drinks that evening with how dry the look that we give each other is when the sound of mud and stones is flying into the arches once I'm back on track and heading to the pits. It's something I know I'll never be allowed to forget..

Took me an age to get all the dirt out of the arches though. Anyway...

Suspension wise, waiting on:

Hardrace Master Bush Kit
Hardrace Droplinks (front and rear)
Hardrace ARB bushes (front and rear)

In the meantime, I bought some of these Energy Suspension shifter bushes which should improve the shift feel.

Also have some nice heat wrap, a shiny turbo blanket, some RFB 600 Brake Fluid, a cam cover gasket for when I spray my rocker cover and a short version of the hamp filter which ever so slightly increases oil pressure + saves a few grams of weight hehe..

I've removed my rear window wiper and mechanism as well. Looks much nicer, though a little gutting with how little the wiper mechanism weighs. Was expecting a bit more weight behind it.

The grommet from Honda is very cheap as well.

Still, every little helps.

More updates soon, pre-MOT tomorrow and then from there we should see the cars major jobs being complete in 2012

 

Scuse the poor photos..

Here's my Hardrace front and rear droplinks, Hardrace front and rear ARB bushes, Honda OEM RTA bushes, heat wrap, turbo blanket, energy suspension shifter bushings, RBF 600 fluid and a mini hamp filter.



Hardrace Master Arm Bushing kit



And finally, some Mugen Gold 5-way adjustable dampers and springs:



I decided that 2nd hand Mugen/Showa suspension developed purposefully for the DC2 is better than brand new budget £600/£800 after market suspension, if the price and condition is right. We'll soon see when it's on the car. Hope it doesn't drop it much. It states 15mm/20mm but I'd be more than happy with it staying where it sits now.

Had both rear RTA's replaced, along with front and back droplinks with the new Hardrace equivalents. Feels much sturdier, but can't report just yet as I haven't tested it out properly as I have not had any alignment done. Want to hold off until I have all my bushes press into the arms. The rear droplinks fell to peices though.

MOT pass as well with no advisories so that was good.

Bushes are with my guy now, so should be pressed in and ready to fit by the end of the week.



Also quick picture of my bargain wheel: