So I finished swapping the D16A engine (essentially a JDM D16Z6 engine) into my 1995 Civic DX hatchback and am having trouble with it starting.

It cranks continuously, but will not start. The car was running the factory D15B7 engine before the swap and ran well. I installed the motor and replaced many of the sensors and important components from the B7 engine (IAT, IACV, MAP, swapped injectors). I have both the factory ECM and a P28. Jumping the service connector in the passenger floorboard area (with the factory ECM installed) causes the CEL to remain solidly lit and causes the SRS light to blink perpetually (note: the SRS light was not lit before the swap, only when the service connector is jumped). Jumping the connector when the P28 ECM is installed produces the same results (flashing SRS), but throws a code for the VTEC solenoid (which I expected since I have not yet connected the wires from the solenoid to the ECM) and the car still will not start.

I am at a loss for what to do, and all search's on the net related to flashing SRS, etc. produce no results. What are the symptoms when the ECM is fried? I don't expect this to be the problem considering both ECM's worked well before the swap.

Please help!!!

Edit: I also sure it's not the main relay since I can hear the fuel pump clearly and had no problems before the swap. I also swapped all the internals from the B7 distributor into a Z6 core and replaced the cap and rotor with OEM components.

 

Help!

 

thermostat ground conected?

 

Absolutely. Checked, double-checked. All other grounds appear good (transmission, shock tower, etc.). Thanks for your response!

 

double check timing? check for spark? check for fuel pressure?

 

Timing marks a lined up (could check with a timing light, though I don't have one.) Checking spark may be next. Distributor was working before swap and I replaced the cap and rotor, but I'm going to open it back up and check the igniter and coil.

 

ttt

 

No Start Diagnosis Basics

If you think the ECU is fried then try and get a hold of a known working one.

 

Both were known working ECU's. Is there a way to quickly determine whether they are working? One is throwing the CEL for the VTEC solenoid (as I previously mentioned). Does this mean the ECU ISN"T fried?

 

Is VTEC not hooked up?

 

have you checked for spark and fuel? if you havn't done this even touching your ecu is foolish

 

No yet. I have the necessary subharness, but haven't hooked it up. Could this potentially cause a problem.

I already knew that I was getting fuel as the fuel pump is priming and fuel is making it to the fuel rail.

I hadn't checked the spark previously because the distributor was working without any problems before the swap and I changed the cap and rotor.

I checked spark tonight and found that cylinder 1 is receiving no/ inadequate spark. The rest of the cylinders are receiving a bright white/ blue spark. I've pulled the distributor and am going to inspect the internals.

Edit: Thanks alot guys for taking the time to help! You don't know how frustrated I am the car isn't starting after so much work and effort, not to mention money. Thank you!

 

More help?

 

Tried a known working distributor tonight with no success. Running out of ideas.

 

More advice?

 

firing order correct?

 

Fixed! It appeared to be the distributor, but I'm still not certain. I hooked up VTEC and swapped distributors and it fired right up.