I just recently completed my turbo installation. I bought a t3t4 entry level turbo from precision. I am feeding it oil from a oil filter adapter via a -4 line to the turbo with no restriction per advise of tech support at precision. Oil drain is a -10 straight down from turbo with a 90 into the highest point of the pan. Plugs were removed and oil was primed before first start up. Turbo has about 400 miles on it running 7lbs of boost. The other day I removed the inlet pipe and with my finger turned the wheel. To my surprise the wheel did not freely turn. Was not hard to turn but certainly did not free wheel. So I decided to start car and watch. At idle the wheel is stopped, rev it up it spins and comes to a stop. I immediately called precision and explained this to them and the guy was asked if the wheel was rubbing the housing, I told him no it was not. He then explained that this is normal for a journal bearing type turbo. I must have sounded unconvinced as he said he was more then happy to look at it but advised that he highly doubts they would find anything wrong with it.

As a FYI, the turbo makes great boost spools quickly (i guess, first turbo). In fact it is hard sometimes to keep it out of boost. Turbo also sounds good, no abnormal noises. I am very happy with setup, this is why I was surprised to see this. I googled this and didn't find any specific answers. I would feel much better if someone else would confirm this.

 

When it starts making ab-normal noises, then its time to be scared.
til then im sure its fine.

 

yeah.. you're fine.

 

Okay, sounds like I am being a tad too worried. I have a lot invested and just don't want to overlook anything. So I assume that a BB turbo does not have this resistance and thus why they are more efficient? Oh well too late to change my mind. I am happy with it....for now.

 

Actually, some ball-bearing cartridges do. But at this point, why worry? get it going, tuned and enjoy..

 

why or you using a 4an line to feed your turbo i would use a 3an line also what is your oil psi on a cold start

 

Well no real reason other then it was more readily available. I did read about using a 3 or a 4 and gathered that either was fine. I haven't checked the pressure yet. I can check tomorrow. Motor is bone stock.

Edit: After looking at kit for oil feed. It is a 3/16 id steel braided line. I am wanting to change the line for other reasons so if you have a better suggestion I would like to know. Thanks.

 

So I know most of you know more about turbos than I do, but I jus went and checked mine bc I was curious, and after 12k miles my precision journal bearing turbo still spins freely and appears to spin just as fast at idle as it did brand new....so I am curious why his is already not spinning freely at idle and you guys say it's fine when after 12k mine "appears" to be in such better condition. This is my first boosted car that I put together so there is still a lot I can learn......

 

Because its possible. some spin freely, some don't. I've had 4 that spin freely like that, and 3 others that didn't. There's not complete rhyme or reason. some exhaust pulses move them freely, others don't. Nature of the beast.

 

Hm. Very interesting. Speaking of exhaust pulses, do you think the manifold plays much of a role in this situation then?

 

It can when it comes to the amount of exhaust velocity and backpressure, but not with the car running at idle.

 

use a 3an feed line and if your car his high oil pressure on a cold start use a oil restrictor to help prevent problems associated with high oil pressure such as oil leaking past the seals

 

Update: Still not satisfied with turbo. Everyone convinced me that it is okay for the wheel to be tight...okay....problem now is it smokes. When I pull up to a light sometimes I see smoke at idle. As far as I know it does not smoke under boost. The smoking is lite and only once in awhile. When I first started having problems it was bad, I had oil in the compressor side, smoking heavily at idle. I parked the car and did some of my own research. At the time I was running a -4 feed line with no restrictor per PT's advice. This was wrong on their part and mine. I didn't tell them I had 85psi oil pressure and they didn't ask. I am a Noob on installation of turbo's. I also had a 90 on my return line too. So I made a reducer on oil feed line to .061. Re-did the return line using a 45 and re clocked the turbo to exactly straight up and down. (b4 was tilted slightly). Test drove few miles re-checked the compressor side and oil was cleaned out on its own. FIXED....so I thought. Still every so often smokes upon coming to a stop. Oil is no longer a problem on the compressor side.

PT insists I have either a problem with return, or high crank case pressures. I am running a breather on valve cover and a hollowed pcv valve going to a catch can that is being evacuated via the inlet side of turbo. Catch can is also vented to atmosphere. Could there still be too much crank pressure??

This is my daily driver, really hoping to not have to tear apart and send in for service.

I spoke with someone else that says that as long as I am boosting fine then the seals are okay. Goes on to say that if the seals are bad then the bearings are bad and turbo would not spool or would sound horrible. Car spools nicely and sounds good.

Suggestions?????????????????????

 

Need to see pictures of your feed, return line (top and bottom) as well as the turbo orientation in the engine bay, please.

 

eBay turbo? they are usually a bit "tighter" feeling. Nothing to worry about as long as its making boost OK.

 

He currently has a Precision unit.

 

idk should be fine, and i dont think it matters what kinda turbo it is. my 2 year old ebay turbo spins freely and when i shut the car off it still spins for like 5 more seconds and then i have seen other ebay and brand name turbos that are a little stiffer, maybe break in?

 

No such thing as "turbo break in"...

 

Thank you first of all for all you taking the time to help address my problem. Took some pictures today. Also couldn't help but to think that possibly crank case pressures could be the problem. I remembered that when the engine was stock setup if you removed the oil fill cap and there was quite a bit of air movement. Never cared cause I know motor is in good condition and I didn't have a turbo to worry about. So I checked this again today and its the same as it was before. Soooo....I am thinking that if there is this much pressure in the crankcase then this surely is the issue. Question is why?? As I said the pcv valve is verified completely gutted running to a catch can. The port on the valve cover as you can see if the pictures is vented to atmosphere. What am I missing here? I see some of you guys running dual -10 lines off the front of the valve cover. I assumed (no offense) that this was over kill. Do I need to invest in a complete makeover of the crankcase ventilation?

One other thing, the only thing I used from ebay was IC piping, the inlet pipe for the turbo is 2.5". I am using a 3" k&n, and turbo inlet is 3". I didn't think this would be an issue so I used adapters till I got around to making a 3" inlet pipe. My thinking here is perhaps there is too much restriction so turbo is sucking through the seals?? Possible?

Again, thank you for your insight.

P.S. I checked the wheel again and it is much free'er <--word? then when I originally posted this thread. Still doesn't spin at idle, but come on its a 1.8L idling at 850rpms!!

 

Whoa!! Sorry at posting pics. Use ctrl and scroll to zoom out.

FIXED!