hey there, been lurking on ht for a long time and finally decided to sign up.

anyhow, ive read so much about what to and what not to do on the oil feel lines to t3/t04 journal bearing garretts that i dont know what to do anymore ahah..did testing on my car with a garret rebuilt ebay t3/t04e which blew it seals and eventually had axial shaftplay hitting the compressor housing and a overheated rod. -4an line and a very small unknown sized restictor at the turbo that came with the car when i bought it. i want to do it right before i buy the pte 5431 ive been wanting and i do not want to grenade that.


so heres my question, when hooking up a restrictor to the feed line, is it better to place the restrictor at the block/sandwitch plate or directly at the turbo?

this also leads to oil pressure readings, if im thinking correctly, you hook up the gauge on a T at the turbo right? but what if the restrictor is at the turbo, the T being before it, the pressure read higher due to the restriction in line, no?

*read this to get to the point* im too confused, just want to know how to get an accurate reading of the turbo's oil pressure with the restrictor hooked up. sorry for asking so many q's on a first post..

 

if you want to know, you'll have to get a fitting to go between the restrictor and the turbo. both are usually 1/8npt.

 

yes, you will need a T then the gauge after the restrictor, precision will tell you to run a -3 or -4 wide open, but most will agree this will cause seal failure, the consensus seems to be that its pretty safe to run a .065 restrictor...

 

After checking for a proper oil pressure first.. THEN see if one is needed.

 

exactly, well ill give this a try, thanks for the feedback, i appriciate it a lot. the car is pretty sad without the turbo ahah

 

I'm curious because I have never used an oil press. gauge to check on any of the hondas I have been involved with building....... how much does oil press. actually vary from one honda motor to the next? I was under the impression that 90%+ were all going to be at 75 psi or higher at WOT, so it was safe to assume they all needed a restrictor....I have never once seen a honda motor that didnt need a restrictor, they all either smoke and/or blow seals without one from what I have seen.

 

I run a straight -4 from my oil sandwich adapter to my precision billet 6765. It's what precision recommended even though I don't necessarily agree.

 

Er, what? Russian Roulette right there if they're boosted.

 

As stated..... I have built 4 of my own turbo cars, and helped build several others, in every situation (all journal bearing) the ones that had a .080 or .065 restrictor were happy healthy turbos, the ones that ran no restrictor resulted in smoking or blown oil seals, were talking garrett,precision,turbonetics, and even ebay turbos.

Don't MOST healthy Honda motors produce 75+ psi of oil pressure at WOT? If so, they need a restrictor correct?

Just stating my experiences, I may be completely wrong here, maybe some Honda motors only make 50 psi? But everyone that I have been involved with has done perfect with a restrictor and horrible without.....

 

The engines produce that but they don't require a restrictor, the turbo does. That's how I read your question.

 

Usually yes. But previous owners or cars that were modified NA could have shims, or other oil pump-modifying devices, or other ways to increase oil pressure to a point where one is needed when normally it is not. never generally assume that because it is a Honda with 60-75psi of oil pressure, that it will be exactly that for every application. Like House MD says, "everybody lies", (even if they don't know it). Better to check and be sure, than to assume and get a bad result. you'd be chasing gremlins for days for an issue that's staring you right in the face.