First turbo build fire up tomorrow
94 civic with b18b1 60 trim turbo 450cc injectors
Gotta install the turbo oil lines, downpipe, ecu, fmic, bov flange, oil, coolant.
Is there anything special I should do before firing up? Should I pre lube the turbo with a little bit of oil before firing it up? How can I tell if oil is actually flowing through the feed line? (I have a t fitting with the sensor and my oil line) My oil feed flange is restricted. I used a 1/16th bit on it today (it took barely anything off) Is this adequate room for oil to flow freely for a JOURNAL BEARING turbo since journal bearing turbos should NOT have oil restrictors, does anyone know what size bit I should use?
also, should I mess with the pcv in any way? on this turbo guide it mentions doing some **** to control the crank case pressure
Besides looking for oil/coolant/boost leaks, what should I be checking for? I had my ECU flashed today for my current set up, so I can safely drive to get the car tuned.
One more thing! The car has been running regular motor oil. Will I be safe running full synthetic here on out??
Thanks for any replies
Gotta install the turbo oil lines, downpipe, ecu, fmic, bov flange, oil, coolant.
Is there anything special I should do before firing up? Should I pre lube the turbo with a little bit of oil before firing it up? How can I tell if oil is actually flowing through the feed line? (I have a t fitting with the sensor and my oil line) My oil feed flange is restricted. I used a 1/16th bit on it today (it took barely anything off) Is this adequate room for oil to flow freely for a JOURNAL BEARING turbo since journal bearing turbos should NOT have oil restrictors, does anyone know what size bit I should use?
also, should I mess with the pcv in any way? on this turbo guide it mentions doing some **** to control the crank case pressure
Besides looking for oil/coolant/boost leaks, what should I be checking for? I had my ECU flashed today for my current set up, so I can safely drive to get the car tuned.
One more thing! The car has been running regular motor oil. Will I be safe running full synthetic here on out??
Thanks for any replies
You dont need to prime the turbo. Oil will reach it within a second after firing it up. If you want to check it, shut the engine off after 30 seconds and pull the return line off the CHRA and see if any oil drips out.
Im not certain on the restrictor size so I cant answer that but you should def double check that first.
PCV should NOT be connected to the intake as the boost pressure will shut the valve. Just vent the valve cover and breather box to atm for now. Or route them into a catch can. It may get messy if you dont.
Prime the fuel pump a couple times and make sure your fuel rail is not leaking. Start the car and check for fluid leaks as its running. Im assuming you will need to bleed the coolant as well. You should do a complete warm up before you drive it. Then drive it around carefully and check for leaks and/or loose bolts. Dont boost until you get it tuned. Be smart
Synth oil is fine.
Im not certain on the restrictor size so I cant answer that but you should def double check that first.
PCV should NOT be connected to the intake as the boost pressure will shut the valve. Just vent the valve cover and breather box to atm for now. Or route them into a catch can. It may get messy if you dont.
Prime the fuel pump a couple times and make sure your fuel rail is not leaking. Start the car and check for fluid leaks as its running. Im assuming you will need to bleed the coolant as well. You should do a complete warm up before you drive it. Then drive it around carefully and check for leaks and/or loose bolts. Dont boost until you get it tuned. Be smart
Synth oil is fine.
you can feel the turbo oil return and see if its warm while the engine is running as far as break in and first start up this link should help.
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
I use the .065" restrictor from OBX on ebay or ATP turbo. They're all the same. It's cheaper on eBay lol. I had the restrictor on my Garrett 57 trim and I will use I on my Turbonetics T62. Both were journal bearing and the restrictor worked great. The 57 trim is still boosting on my friends car.
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You dont need to prime the turbo. Oil will reach it within a second after firing it up. If you want to check it, shut the engine off after 30 seconds and pull the return line off the CHRA and see if any oil drips out.
Im not certain on the restrictor size so I cant answer that but you should def double check that first.
PCV should NOT be connected to the intake as the boost pressure will shut the valve. Just vent the valve cover and breather box to atm for now. Or route them into a catch can. It may get messy if you dont.
Prime the fuel pump a couple times and make sure your fuel rail is not leaking. Start the car and check for fluid leaks as its running. Im assuming you will need to bleed the coolant as well. You should do a complete warm up before you drive it. Then drive it around carefully and check for leaks and/or loose bolts. Dont boost until you get it tuned. Be smart
Synth oil is fine.
Im not certain on the restrictor size so I cant answer that but you should def double check that first.
PCV should NOT be connected to the intake as the boost pressure will shut the valve. Just vent the valve cover and breather box to atm for now. Or route them into a catch can. It may get messy if you dont.
Prime the fuel pump a couple times and make sure your fuel rail is not leaking. Start the car and check for fluid leaks as its running. Im assuming you will need to bleed the coolant as well. You should do a complete warm up before you drive it. Then drive it around carefully and check for leaks and/or loose bolts. Dont boost until you get it tuned. Be smart
Synth oil is fine.
atm is atmosphere, vent it to the open air. the breather box is black box the pcv is connected to. just pull the pcv out and let it vent.
"in the heat of the moment, its okay to go ATM"
clerks2, thats one raunchy *** movie.
ok, if you completely block off the pcv, the black box and the valvecover nipple its bad, but when in boost the valve is shut, essentially blocking it off. you need to let the crankcase breathe.
clerks2, thats one raunchy *** movie.
ok, if you completely block off the pcv, the black box and the valvecover nipple its bad, but when in boost the valve is shut, essentially blocking it off. you need to let the crankcase breathe.
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