i just bought what was supposed to be a tuned p28, 2 step, modded fuel tables, vtec engagment, rev limiter yada yada.

well, i throw it in, wont come off a 4400 limiter, then suddenly will run all the way up past 7400. based off the a/f meter, its constantly rich, will spike lean, then jump right back rich. it flashes a 9 and 14 code. i know the vss is bad now(i thought my cluster was bad, so i hadnt changed vss yet) but i dont know how to determine no 1 cyl position.

if someone could help, this is all the info i have on it

CHIP ITS SELF READS: SST 27sf512
70-3c-pge
0621189-c


ECM BACK COVER READS: 7-24-02
Skunk 2
p30sk480002

 

its a rewritable chip, has a custom map setting for a particular motor. What motor are you running it with?

 

its on a d16z6, has Accel coil, pulstar plugs, bosch wires, short ram and header. i've got a AEM timing gear to throw on when i do the timing belt here soon.


are you saying i just need to retune it to my car? the guy i got it from told me that he pulled it from his z6 swapped ef, but idk how true that is. i didnt know if it was a generic basemap for any z6 or what.

 

had a chipped for my gsr when i was N/A and one of my buddy wanted to try it out for his CTR b16b and he couldn't go past 4.4k and also my other buddy with the z6 too. so i would say you just need to get it tuned.

 

throw a stock ecu back in there before you blow something. i dont know why you feel like you need a chipped ecu.

 

True what doood said. Unless you got some major internals done than a chip ecu would not make a difference. just makes it seem like your faster.

 

because some genius threw a d15 non-vtec auto ecu in a d16 vtec manual car

 

so its an auto ecu???

 

correct. auto, non-vtec. they put in a bone stock p06. i would very much like to punch this kid in the throat

 

Is the chipped P28 auto or manual? If it is manual just cut the J1 jumper on it and run with the stock P28 maps until you actually need a tune.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-convert-obd1-automatic-ecu-manual-2969571/

 

well, the p28 is already chipped, so i cant really run run the stock maps without buying another ecu, or re-flashing the chip with a stock tune.

what is the point of cutting the j1? i've seen it mentioned a few times, but no one says what it actually does


also, i've already ordered a burner, and i plan to tune the car a bit, regardless of everyone saying that it doesnt need a tune cause i dont have a big snail attached to it, tuning is where power is made, and i dont see why tweaking a fuel map or timing curve would be a bad thing. i'm not a tuning noob, just new to hondas

 

Removing J1 sets it back to stock mode.

 

huh. did a google search after i posted that, came right up. never did before.

is there anything that i should look for to know that when it was socketed(sp?) that it was done right? best i've been able to track down by the numbers on it, it atleast got a skunk2 basemap put on it, and i assume thats who did the socket.

 

If there is no CEL then you're fine.

Never heard of Skunk2 making basemaps but if you want a new basemap check my signature. Chris at Xenocron will be able to help you.

 

i could have read the info wrong, idk.

i shouldnt have any problems running the base map from a p28 on crome should i? and once i get my vss problem figured out, i could copy the fuel and ignition tables from the p28 to a p72 to use luach control correct?(and adjust rev limit and such obviously)

 

and also, on the current chip in the p28, it throws a code 9 and 17. i read somewhere, though i dont remember where, too much advance could cause a 9 code to flash. maybe like it was tuned for a turbo motor, cause it pegs rich on my a/f gauge on the factory narrowband. good thought, or is that completly retarded?

 

Why would you use the p72 base on a stock p28?

The p30 would be the better option.

 

i'm not saying to actually run the p72 maps. just "use" the p72 with the p28 maps copied over, since crome doesnt support 2 step for p28.

the p72 info would be overwritten with p28 maps

 

You just need to take it to a tuner who knows what they are talking about. You can run a 2 step on a P28 ECU, it's the P28 ROM (read only memory) installed in the ECU that doesn't allow for 2 step in Crome. You can use a P30 ROM in Crome with a P28 base map and launch control (2step) enabled on your chipped P28 ECU. I would suggest that you take your car to a tuner and have it tuned properly.

Your issues are not something new, there is no need to reinvent the wheel here. Clip the J1 jumper and run the ECU as a stock P28. If and when you get some mods that require tuning and you desire to have it tuned. You can then simply replace the cut jumper wire and have it tuned. Now if all you are looking for is to have launch control installed on a stock motor...... take it to a tuner and have them tune your ECU or buy a new basemap from a reputable site and have them add launch control. Xenocron.com or phearable.net both sell base mapped chips to the customers specs.

You are not going to get your current chipped P28 that was tuned for boost to run properly on your car.

Fix the DTC 9 and 17 issues as well. Code 9 is for a faulty CYP sensor, I have never seen ignition timing throw that one.

 

Skunk2 back in 1999-2002 did full ECU tunes for Hondas when Hondata first started coming out with their Stage1-4 programs (Pre-S100 series). Like with Mugen, Spoon and other companies, a lot of those chipped ECUs were copied.

They looked like this

 

i realize it is the rom that makes the difference, i just think i'm not properly conveying what i'm trying to say.

i have the jumper cut right now to run the car, when i get the burner, i will replace the jumper, put a p28 base on the rom, and possibly alter the fuel table, since my car is running very rich, even with the jumper cut. i was just simply confirming that you could run a "p30" rom with p28 maps and limiters. i dint think it made a difference, as long as the maps were correct for the motor.

as far as the dtc's, i've checked the ohms and continuity pre haynes manual, and its all in spec. i have continuity in the wire from the dizzy to the ecm. where do i look next?

also, it only throws that code on the p28, not the p06 i've been running

 

OK I see what you are saying now. For future reference when you are talking about base maps, ECU's and ROM's. Be sure to differentiate between the three. All you mentioned was putting a P28 base on a P72..... to most that could mean burning a P28 basemap on a chip and putting it in a P72 ECU...... It would be a little less confusing next time if you state that you are using a P72 ROM with a P28 basemap and putting it into a P28 ECU.

As for the code 9, if the sensor and wire harness check out, the only thing left is the ECU.

As for your engine running rich on the stock P28. What wideband O2 and gauge are you using to read your AFR's? Have you done any mods to your fuel supply system? swapped injectors or the fuel pressure regulator....

 

the o2 is the stock narrowband, so i know its not foolproof reliable, running a autogauge afr. as far as i know, its all stock fuel wise. i've not checked pressure to know its correct, but there isn't any evidence of any modifications to the fuel system.

if it is my ecu bad, could i just swap my socket to the p06 i already have?

 

Reading a narrow band from an Autogauge AFR is not reliable at all. From what I have seen from them. They will only read rich or lean most of the time...... Don't judge how your engine is running by that. Checking your spark plugs would be a better indicator of how your engine is running.

As for swapping ECU components. You're better off buying a new chip kit and chipping the P06. Then trying to desolder and swap over components from the P28.