I'm on the wave of my last mods I want done to my EJ6 with JDM B18C. So far, the journey with this car has been awesome. I've learned so much. Since the first day I've got her, I've always wanted to install a turbo. So I need your advice on what to research.

What I've got:
Bone stock GSR in a EJ6
Exedy flywheel and stage 1 clutch
2.5 inch catback exhaust
No leaks
I rarely drive it being that I have another car.

My idea:
I'm not racing in any events
I don't care for monster power
I want it to be internally waste gated.
I'm imagining a low amount of boost, 9-11 psi maybe?
I don't care for upgrading cams, or building the bottom end to withstand 500+ HP.
This will be a fun street rod. A weekend warrior. By no means a "race car."
I want to keep my PS and AC

So from injectors to which turbo, to which screws do I need to start researching?

 

stick to racing pocket bikes.

jk theres a lot of generic builds like yours. whats the set budget? are you working on it yourself? do you have a tuner?

 

LOL. I'm not sure about budget, but of course, the least expensive the better. All I know is, I'm GOING to do this. I'm more concerned about the type of turbo I should be looking at. What will fit with AC and PS?

 

Internally gated turbos just increased your budget by about 20%-30%. Get used to it. There's one of 3 ways to stay internally gated. for less than 360whp, which is about as much as you would care about anyway

1) GT-R series internal gated systems from 36lbs/min-50lbs/min (GT28R-GT3071R) - That's if you want Ball-bearing, which is a big part of the budget.

2) T3 Super 60 internally gated at 36lbs/min - good to about 260whp only.

3) T3/T4 Ford-style 5 bolt can be refitted with an internal wastegate. Again, can go from 44lbs/min-60lbs/min. which is too bad..

4) GT28 Journal bearing - must be fitted like the T3/T4 Ford style 5 bolt.

 

Will OEM turbo's from other makes and models work? Which is best for my intentions?

 

in your case i would research the gt28 series, why do u want internally gated? that limits options, i think figuring out your power goal and picking the smallest turbo to get u there is the way to go. a go autoworks tubular log mani is something to look at and their cast ones are very affordable. for cheap i would go with cast log and a 50 trim, 450 injectors, 255 fuel pump, keep your 2.5 inch exhaust and an ebay piping and intercooler. tune and enjoy. this will cost u somewhere in the neighbourhood of $2500 to $3000 dollar range with brand new parts.

 

The only one that I've seen work is the Evolution 8 or Evolution 9 turbocharger. That you must custom make a manifold to fit the turbine flange and wastegate actuator. Not to mention, that actuator has a very high spring rate that would need to be tuned properly.

 

In my head, I'm thinking an internally gated turbo is more "simplified" than having to mess with anything external. But I could be wrong I suppose.

I'm reading about T25 turbo's as an option as well. There seems to be some debate on this turbo being too small and losing efficiency on the top end. But how many times will I actually go WOT to redline? I don't have a heavy foot so I'm guessing not much.

Yes, a cast manifold is what I'm highly considering. Any companies in particular I should be looking at that is AC and PS compatible? I would want to stay away from DSM injectors and ditch the idea of a resistor box and such, I want this to be plug and play as much as possible. For piping, I'll fabricate my own, what kind of material should I consider?

Thanks everyone!

 

cast manifolds mean go autoworks or inline pro, you'll also need more clutch with boost. that said if you want a killer deal on an exedy stage 2 send me a pm

 

Not going to the track and planning to hardly ever go to WOT...... No offense but what's the point then? But if you do turbo whoterice pretty much paid out a good plan that time and time again has been proven to give you a very fun street car with good response.

 

It's just a personal goal of mine to complete this car the way I've always imagined it. I'm not going to say that I'm never ever going to take it to track or WOT because once in a while I probably will. Over the years of driving, I learned to just take it easy.

 

so you hate spending all your free time and money fixing things

 

i would stay with a t3 flange again way more options, i suggest dsm because they work awesme and wiring a resistor box in is extremely easy and they are readily available on a budget. all the log syle manis are ps and ac friendly, go autoworks is the best price for the best quality imo. an awesome setup would be a log with a gt28rs if your budget allows for a 1200 dollar turbo. check out tony the tigers build on here.

racebum, im still on my stock exedy clutch which will need replacing soon but is still not slipping after 16000km. its def needed eventually but not if yours is still healthy for now.

 

I would stay tubular log and if you must have internal gate, just order from Go-Autowerks without a wastegate elbow or flange.


T25 as a bad choice isn't about redlining and big power. Its bad because it doesn't work well at ALL in the powerband, not just in the upper level. You can do T25flanging if you want, just expect to pay more. As mentioned, stick with T3 for the most options. you can stay small, without going overboard. But if you start getting cast manifolds, especially outside Go-Autowerks, you'll be fabricating your own downpipe.

As for injectors, I'd go above and beyond some DSMs for a turbo car. too much to clean and not worth the effort. No. you're right, you don't need ID1000s for a 260whp car, but you can at least go to about 550cc without issue

 

wow

that's amazing, i still have that nearly new exedy stage 2 if you want to upgrade on the cheap, either just the clutch or matched with the exedy flywheel

 

whats the tq rating on the stage 2, ive been looking at the xtd clutch that californiadad has or the f1 racing that turbo ls used to use. the whole package brand new with flywheel is 289 for the xtd and the f1 is 288 and it comes with a fidanza flywheel. mines still grabbing pretty good but once it gets really hot i can feel a bit of slippage with an aggressive bang into second. btw i bought the same wastegate u had for sale but i paid 280 for it lol.

 

tq rating is 240lb, if you're looking at gripforce for the XTD and F1 deals they also are where i bought this package for $605, also have arp flywheel bolts {included} which were 50 or 60, i'd take 300 plus shipping and it has at most 1k miles, never slipped or abused. just going back to NA and using organic

part numbers are 08950B on the clutch and HF01 on the flywheel

LOL on the WG shoulda played lets make a deal 280 is a bit steep for a 2 bolt, did you order it from ATP?

 

keep stock motor and buy a gt3076r along with a nice ramhorn manifold with tial 44mm wg among others and make about 350hp. Should be a perfect car to have for fun

 

So based on everyones input, which I appreciate, I've come up with some realistic goals and a starting budget.

HP goals: 250-275
Budget: 1.5-2K

Does that give you guys a better idea as to what I would like for my car and what to get?

 

With that budget you'll be using used parts. Start looking for deals on marketplace.

 

I don't have a problem with used parts. My engine is used with very minimal replaced parts when I first swapped it in. It's held up great with basic maintenance. I've seen a few used manifolds and other related items here and there. I think the turbo I will buy new or rebuilt however.

 

Torque rating is about 300ft/lbs of torque. That's about it. Good for 300-400whp, not so great when going above 450whp if you're too hard on it

 

V-Tec.

 

It does give a better idea. But I'd up that budget about 1K to get everything essential. We're not even talking about the "just in case" parts.

 

this actual testing? exedy rates it at 240lb but i know more than a few people have pushed past that on the stage 2 without issue.