zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

Then what's all this talk about needing more clutch?! See, there's where I'm confused. Everyone has their own opinions which I appreciate but sometimes, it's very conflicting.

Whiterice-gsr

this forum is all opinions man, im a if it aint broke dont fix it kinda guy. if your stage one is healthy and your torque numbers are gonna stay around 200 then u might as well just leave it until its shot and in need of replacement, then feel free to buy whatever clutch u want. right now u need to focus on the turbo kit and tuning once the car is boosted then u can make a new list of all the shortcomings in other areas. like brakes and clutch for example.

racebum

x2

stage 1 is going to drive better than any of the race clutches. if you haven't killed it, leave it

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

Thank you both! As of current, I've got new PIC bushings, AMR suspension, front ITR 11.1" brake conversion, rear discs, and a few other things. I'm trying to prep as much as I can before actually moving on to the turbo part of things. The stage 1 I have has never been beaten on or abused and I'm going to keep it for now! Thanks guys!

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

So I've decided on an entry level, low boost setup. The Greddy 18G. It seems reliable and makes acceptable power. I found someone selling the turbo, manifold, and downpipe for an unreal price. I had to grab it.

Now because it is internally gated, do I still have to use a boost controller? At what PSI are these set at?

Whiterice-gsr

i would weld the internal closed and use an external with a mbc but thats just my opinion, i know nothing about the greddy 18G maybe someone else can chime in here.
where did u get your itr brake conversion from?

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I bought it a long while ago from a member on here. It was actually for sale but I was too lazy to push hard on the sales lol. If you don't have it, you should get it. It's awesome. I'm using a GSR MC/BB as well.

Whiterice-gsr

i was gonna do the 11 inch rotors from a mini with the legend calipers but id love to find an actual itr swap

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The GReddy 18G turbocharger uses a 41lbs/min compressor wheel and a smaller turbine wheel from the GT28RS to make about the most of 350whp or so at over 22psi of boost pressure. Even though this power level is possible, there are a lot of things that much change in order to get to that level. As it sits they can make about 260whp with about 9psi of pressure.

The wastegate actuator from GReddy's 18G is about 6psi. It can go to about 13psi at maximum, but that's when the flapper door and opening become a problem and you'll experience some spiking when going to the upper level. The actuator can only take about 2 times its spring rate no matter what you do to it (Shortening the actuator rod, or using a boost controller of any kind.

Most people will get an aftermarket actuator for the turbocharger when approaching the 300-320whp range. The restriction is the downpipe that comes with the kit (a scant 2"), and the downpipe adapter elbow needs to be ported in order to work, or it can be eliminated and a custom downpipe can be made since the turbine flange used on this turbo is shared with the GT28RS 5 bolt.

If you got it for an "unreal price", this means that either he didn't know what he had, and had difficulty selling it, or had issues with repair, as a lot of people nowadays are not replacing the wheels and internal parts (which are still mitsubishi and have increased by over 300% in the last year alone). So be aware of the fact that you may have to repair this turbocharger in the process. Its just a nature of the beast. There are repairs and upgrades available,but they are costly and don't necessarily warrant their purchase, but that will be for you to decide if there is, in fact, an issue with the one you're considering.

I had several of those turbochargers years ago and they were very robust; provided that the owners took care of them while in their possession. They will make the power you need, but be prepared to do some modifications if you don't get the results you'd like. There's an entire thread on the GReddy 18G that is on H-T, but use the google search to find these particular threads.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

^^Man I don't know what you do but it sounds like you save lives and wallets lol! I was just reading a thread from a few years back about spark plugs. I'm wanting to do a mild tune up before this car hits the ground again. Would it hurt to install 1 step colder plugs (7) without the turbo and leave it gapped at 1.1mm until it's time to turbo and tune?

The price of the manifold, turbo, and down pipe came out to $430 shipped. To me, that's unreal as I've been coming across turbo's that are $700+ alone lol. But the turbo looks to be in good shape, the guy is just parting out his setup. I won't know for certain until I get the thing in my hands.

Ideally, I want to go for about 9-10psi on this stock engine. I think that sounds safe and I don't have a clue how I came up with that number. You mentioned it would do 6psi, can this be altered with the installation of a boost controller?

racebum

if it's in good shape that's a deal. if it isn't....it's not

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I cost people money as much as I save others on money. NEVER go by number of psi of boost pressure to determine what power level to go to. (That's a BIG turbo no-no). 260whp is about as good as you'll get with about 8-10psi of pressure depending upon tune.

DO NOT put in 1 step colder plugs until its time to turbo. you're not doing yourself any favors doing this Early. They're just plugs.. wait for the installation and tune

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

^^Awesome thanks. Looks like I have a list of what I need to do and get thanks to you all! I've started running oil feed lines, vacuum hoses, got boost, oil temp, and oil pressure gauges, mocking up the FMIC and piping which is another world of trial and error lol. I'll start posting pictures up soon!

Whiterice-gsr

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

Oh I forget the fuel pump is installed as well. One more question before it starts getting real; Whats a good manual boost controller? Are $10 units just as good as $80 units when it comes to manual controllers and is it better installed in the bay or the cabin?

phaphon

If you want a cheap mbc make a home made one those ten dollar ones are crap

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about using this, but the 10psi version

http://store.norgren.com/us/en/detai...ure-regulators

Apparently, HKS uses them too.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not as much as you think. Look to the better solution of Hallman boost controllers for Manual Boost control over the TurboXS and other companies. I've always like the Hallman Pro Boost controllers, and for under $100 you don't get into the mickey mouse ball and spring combos that are out all over ebay.

I know people like to put together their homemade ball & spring controllers (I did those, and depending upon how much you wanted to mess with a choice of parts, its either horribly mickey mouse or its So-so). I blew up a couple motors with a homemade one years ago.

I like the Hallman Pro Boost controller. It's inexpensive, works hard, and the things never break. A lot of the big DSM and Evolution guys used these for over 30-31psi of boost pressure for years, so I'm familiar as to how they work.

A lot of quality for this boost controller. Here's also a video on it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VJtVa9Y6p4

You can find them relatively easily..

Hallman website

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/

Easy place to pick them up
http://www.amazon.com/Hallman-Boost-.../dp/B000KNN874


Done and DONE

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I just did a compression test to make sure the car is in good health before I boost. I thought it was a good idea. I cranked the car for 8 seconds throttle open on all cylinders. The results were awesome. 210-220 from all 4! And I started the car with the oil pressure gauge. At cold idle the pressure was nearly 75psi @2.5K RPM's, and steadily dropped with the RPM's as the car got warmer. Checked all oil fittings for leaks, none so far. I think it's safe to say that I can boost!

Here's a couple of pics of the car but they're not so current...

When she was rolling




Installing new stealth alarm


Wiring was fun. Awesome learning experience


Her latest shot. Still on stands, no suspension at all. And really dusty.


The daily for now. Gas sucks! Yes, it's my lifted Trailblazer!

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I've got the turbo setup in today!





I'm trying to separate it from the manifold but those bolts are in some odd positions lol. I'm trying to also rotate it so I can access bolts and take off the ugly oil return line. I've loosened and taken off the VBand but it won't wiggle. I do not want to try to fight it either. Seems seized with rust or something.

Also, there's a dent on the waste gate as seen in one of these pictures. Will that affect it's performance at all? I can move the shaft by hand and don't really notice any binding.

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I got around to taking to taking off the turbine housing. These are the results





There's very little side to side shaft play, but it the wheels don't hit either housing. I think these pictures looks awesome and there doesn't seem to be any oil leaks or bent blades. There seems to be a cut blade on there, maybe for balancing?

I haven't taken apart the compressor side yet but I can tell you that it does have black, semi-wet residue when looking into the compressor housing. Could this be oil, a sign of a blown seal?

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

I'm planning to attend track days with this setup as well. I've already made plans to install an oil cooler and an aluminum radiator/fan. Now about head studs, should I upgrade those as well to ARP units?

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

So I'm ready to start working on this car again now that I'm done with the TB. So are ARP head studs absolutely recommended for boosting at low levels with the said turbo I plan on using?

zerovandez

iTrader: (1)

After almost 2 years later.....

ARP Headstuds
New OEM gaskets, seals, and water pump
Changing oil to Valvoline Racing oil (black bottle with blue checkered flags)
Go-Autworks FMIC and Charge Pipe Kit
550cc saturated injectors Bosch EV14 Saturated
Samco radiator hoses
Moroso 5.5qt oil pan
Mocal sandwhich plate with t-stat
Setrab oil cooler
Open breather setup
2.25 downpipe (kept stock greddy elbow, untouched)
3an Line for oil feed
10 an line for oil return
Blue NGK Spark Plug wire set
NGK BKRE7 (something like that plugs) Gapped to .028
OBD1 P72 ECU
Hondata S300v3
Greddy Type FV Blow off Valve
Golden Eagle Vacuum manifold
FAL Fan for B series radiator in Civic
Koyorad racing radiator w/1.3 bar cap
Gates Racing T-Stat
HASport track mounts

Wow I didn't realize how much work and parts I put into this thing lol. Since the initial start of this thread, I picked up a 1993 Acura Integra LS for a daily and got that running like new after 1200 bucks worth of suspension components lol.

So I'm going to fire her up sooner than later after all the listed modifications. The car has not been started since I pulled the head which was about the same time this thread was started. She's full of fluids and only has been turned by hand at this point. But before I really turn her over, I have some questions that you guys might be able to answer...

1) What changes to hondata should I make to accommodate the parts that will give me a base tune to drive to Church Automotive for a tune?

2) Should I crank her with ECU fuse pulled a few times before firing?

3) Kind of getting my hopes up to around 220HP at 9Lbs of boost with this very mild setup. Do you think I'll get there?

4) How fun is this thing going to be?!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)