CLUTCH STOP
I simply have the pedal set, right where I like it, then have a very small peice of 2x4 screwed into the back side of the carpet where you cant see it. Pedal has a nice soft feal when it hit the carpet/wood.
Here's what you asked. Is it necessary, no it isn't but it def doesn't hurt ANYTHING by having one.
Basically it's adjustable as you can see so when the clutch wears down or I go to a diff clutch it can be adjusters as well. Then it's held down by a 10mm bolt. I'd rather not take a chance of over extending anything.
Basically it's adjustable as you can see so when the clutch wears down or I go to a diff clutch it can be adjusters as well. Then it's held down by a 10mm bolt. I'd rather not take a chance of over extending anything.
Last edited by ahobbs; Mar 1, 2012 at 08:28 PM.

Few easy ways to get it done, either modify the pedal, or as ahobbs posted, make a riser off the floor board.
You can also remove the clutch inhibiter switch on the pedal bracket and use a M12 bolt.
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we've adjusted 3 cars this way. It works the exact same, its free, and its easy.
Here's what you asked. Is it necessary, no it isn't but it def doesn't hurt ANYTHING by having one.
Basically it's adjustable as you can see so when the clutch wears down or I go to a diff clutch it can be adjusters as well. Then it's held down by a 10mm bolt. I'd rather not take a chance of over extending anything.

Basically it's adjustable as you can see so when the clutch wears down or I go to a diff clutch it can be adjusters as well. Then it's held down by a 10mm bolt. I'd rather not take a chance of over extending anything.

Paul is doesn't really matter on transmission, but the spot where it will engage into gear. Once you get that engagement spot, you wanna go about 1/4" past that and that is where your pedal stop should be. Make sure everything is bled properly. Hope that helps.
This is how I did it on an EF or DA really simple. This is on a Hydro conversion but can work the same I suppose




The Bolt and Nut on the clutch arm is stationary, The M12 x 1.25, which can replace the NSS, is what will be adjusted in or out. Its really simple but affective

Heres a video. Im not the best commentater but at least you get an idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flhJA...F7S_W41WoMyqAl




The Bolt and Nut on the clutch arm is stationary, The M12 x 1.25, which can replace the NSS, is what will be adjusted in or out. Its really simple but affective

Heres a video. Im not the best commentater but at least you get an idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flhJA...F7S_W41WoMyqAl
Here's what i planned on doing, I have a EK Hatch, and running the comp twin. Could i just replace Clutch switch A with a bolt long enough to hit the medal part on the clutch, or have to run two bolts for it
Here's a picture of what i'm taking about

I removed Switch A also.
Here's a picture of what i'm taking about

I removed Switch A also.
I usually weld a nut on the pedal assembly right about the area of logo A in the picture of the previous post and use a piece of threaded rod on the end with a lock nut on the pedal side of the assembly. I'll be doing one sometime soon and I'll snap some pics and post it up.
I usually weld a nut on the pedal assembly right about the area of logo A in the picture of the previous post and use a piece of threaded rod on the end with a lock nut on the pedal side of the assembly. I'll be doing one sometime soon and I'll snap some pics and post it up.
I had a long bolt in where the clutch switch was but that was a pain in the *** to adjust.
Here's how I usually do them, looks like it might be in the way of your foot but it isn't even close, and it stops on the rubber that the clutch arm normally stops on.
Still needs to be cleaned up.
Still needs to be cleaned up.
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