Hey guys I just started driving my 92 eg hatch again after I re-soldered the main relay. Yesterday I noticed the brakes are extremely mushy and ineffective. I've never driven a car that had a failing master cylinder but it feels like there's no brake fluid (but there is).

IDK how relevant all these are but here are its symptoms:
-soft pedal, barely does anything until last 1/10 of press
-can lock up LEFT ONLY side tire, car pulls to right
-fluid level unchanged

 

Try bleeding the brakes. You need to go right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front.

Did this happen all of a sudden? You may have sprung a leak somewhere, perhaps at the right-front. Do either or both of the rear brakes engage?

 

You said the car pulls to the right. Do you mean all the time, or under braking, or what?

 

Brake pads worn?

 

When you sit at a stop light does it sink to the floor?

When was the last time you changed the pads/rotors?

 

It was simply this.

The car pretty much just sat for the last year so the indictator on the pad was gone. The pads were at least 6 years old (they looked 12 years old lol) since I've owned the car that long and never changed them (only put like 14k on the car total).

They were so low the left caliper warped itself from the bracket and I need a new one.

 

I seem to be having this same problem, but when i go to stop i pump it and it seems to regain pressure.. my brakes are fully bleed, the only thing i recall is removing them off the carrier when swapping out my ball joints, i am a little confused as well.. i think the caliper might be going or master cylinder.

 

Okay...this may be you're problem...change pads/rotors!

 

Ah so its pads... straight.
Thanks so much

 

Did you even narrow down what it could be or did you just ask a blind question........ If your pads are low replace them, If your rotors are warped have the turned or replace them, bleed the system, check brake booster, and lastly check master cylinder. Notspecifically in that order but thats about it, if your brake fluid level is the same it may not be a leak but double check just to be sure.

 

im having the same issue, but im not sure how to bleed the brakes for the rear, especially they are drum brakes.

I found these diagrams but im not sure if its even right

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...e=Rear%20Brake

any help would be appreciated.

Here are complete Honda Parts catalog and diagrams on www.hondapartsnow.com

 

Bleed the brakes and check pads.

 

With out a doubt new rotors and pads front and rear If there still soft bleed them if it's still goes soft but pumps up its the master cylinder it's rare to be booster but typically the first three things will take care of any prob

 

Pray you haven't smoked your caliper or calipers you'll be droping some loot

 

Most likely your master cylinder

 

My hanes for my sol says a hose is connected to the bleed screw at the wheel cylinder and then submerge in brake fluid there using a mason jar air will be seen as bubbles in the tube and container all air must be expelled before moving to the next wheel hope this helps

 

The bleed screw is #22 in the diagram you linked. It pokes out on the inboard side of the brake drum, away from the wheel. (The "Brake Backing Plate," #6/7 in your diagram.) You'll probably want to remove the wheel to gain better access to it. I attached a PDF (117 KB) of the instructions from the service manual.

If you go in to AutoZone, you can buy a brake bleed kit for like $9. It's basically a couple of hoses and a vacuum bottle. You hook one end of the hose to the bleed screw, and the other end to the bottle, open the screw, pump the brakes until there are no air bubbles coming out of the screw in to the hose, and then tighten the screw. I think it's called a "One-man Brake Bleed Kit" because the vacuum bottle prevents you from needing to close the screw before releasing the brake pedal, but it's nice to have an assistant who can watch for bubbles while you pump the brakes.

Be sure to keep the bottle higher than the bleed screw — it comes with a little magnet — and make sure you keep the master cylinder topped up with fluid so you don't reintroduce air at the head of the system.

 

If you're sure the brakes are properly bled, I'd start looking for leaks before I started swapping parts.

 

Calipers aren't expensive, assuming you're doing them yourself. $40 at AutoZone, with a lifetime warranty.