No spark. Has fuel at filter, and rail. No spark. Have two distributors. One brand new in box with 2 year warrently, and a known working used one. NO spark still. Checked spark on all wires to eliminate one bad sparkplug wire. Also have two working ECU's and tried both. A DX i used to pass DEQ and a p30 Added extra grounds also.....I'm stumped.

Any ideas?

 

Oh yah. Car was running fine before issues. One day i was low on gas, it sputtered, check engine light came on, then died a couple days later and would not start. So i started by replacing the Fuel filter, and cap and rotor (they needed to be done anyways) Then bought the new distributor after being told by a few people that's what it should be...Have not checked engine code yet.

 

Why not? Do you not think this is important?

 

I know it's super important. But it's stuck on the side of the road. And i've only been out there a couple times. NEver have a paper clip or piece of wire to do the thingy up with. But i will head out today and check code and b back. I guess that would be a start huh? Also, everyone told me distributor...so i just went with that. Should have known better. Didn't make sense to me. But oh well. Now i have a new distributor. LOL

 

1) Pull CEL code. If there's no code thrown, crank engine for 30 seconds, and then try pulling code again.

2) Check whether the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit has battery voltage to body ground.

 

ok. Got 8 short, 1 long, 5 short...then a break, then the sequence started over. P30 auto computer. (unfortunatly it's an auto ecu). currently trying to look online to see what that means.

 

so what is that?? 8? and 15?

 

Code 8 and 15. Those are both distributor or distributor circuit problems. If you reset the ECU and crank the engine for 30 seconds, do both codes return?

What distributor is currently installed?

If you install a spare distributor, does the engine now start?

Start with the voltage test I mentioned.

 

Ok...will have to go buy volt meter or find one to borrow. I have a brand new in box distributor....and the one that was working before issue started. Neither fire, or produce spark. Currently the "not new" distributor is in. There is a chance that the distributor that came with my motor is bad, and the brand new one i got was defective, but i'm not assuming that yet. Wish i had a third distributor...but I don't. Will have to go back and reset ecu and turn it over again. See if it comes back.
Could a wire have melted or came disconnected somewhere on the harness? if so where would I look? Like I said, it's stuck somewhere so I have to drive out each time, and come back.

 

You need to know which if any code repeats.

Then install other distributor to see whether the same code(s) is thrown after cranking engine for 30 seconds.

Then test for voltage at the Blk/Yel wire.

 

Get the car towed home or to a shop and then work on it. Doing so on the side of the road is not safe....and can be a target for thieves.

 

Replaced harness with 0bd1 GSR harness. Started right up. But runs funny. Check engine lights came on for coolent temp sensor and air temp sensor. I tried swtiching air temp sensors around. You know...the two three wire connectors on the manifold. Still had check engine light. And not sure what to make of the coolent temp sensor thing. There are two wires that it could fit, but one is way in the back of the engine and one in front. I guess my question is... how many plugs can you get backwards when one does a swap??

 

Are coolent temp sensors in different spots on b16 and b18c1? I wouldnt think so? Should I make the one from the back stetch to the front of block by undoing the loome? Loome?? is that how you spell it? Well you know what I'm asking. I hope.

Is there a diagram that shows what plugs/wire colors go to what sensors???

Thanks a bunch