okay, bought a 1995 DX, as base as base can get. guy had the headlights and fuel guage rigged up to work. basically what he said was when he bought the car, someone had installed fog lights and after the install the headlights did not work. so what he did was wire the low beams up to a toggle switch, but the highs/dimmer still work off the factory switches. need to get this fixed as i hate stuff rigged. anyone have the schematics for the headlight system so i can hook these back up factory?

-also, the stock fuel gauge does not work, so guy tried to swap cluster and still no worky. so he replaced the sending unit and wired the sending unit up to an autometer fuel guage... i hate having non working factory guages with working aftermarket guages so i need to get this fixed also... anyone have the schematics or wire colors so i can try to hook this back up?

any help is greatly appreciated! ive been trying to search google for good schematics or similar problems and wire colors/plug pinouts with no good luck.

 

 

ok, so it looks like i should be tracing the red/white wire from the combination switch to the fuse box then out to the headlight itself? i believe the fuel problem should be easy, ill just trace the yellow/white from the unit itself up to the guage....

 

ok, heres what i found so far... any more help is greatly appreciated. popped the cover off of the floor that covers the fuel pump and found someone used a aftermarket fuel sender which they ran to an autometer guage. i want to go back to stock. has anyone used this aftermarket fuel sender before? will it work with stock guage? factory sender has two wires and aftermarket only has one. also, pulled the cluster out and found a smashed wire- what does this wire do? pics below:

AFTERMARKET FUEL SENDER/setup:





BEHIND THE CLUSTER/what i found:
*right side plug behind fuel sender:

*middle plug on bottom back of cluster:

*left side plug behind temp guage with smashed yellow wire:

 

what is that smashed yellow wire for in the last pic? just curious- will fix tomarrow. also, like said the car has a 3 pillar pod with just one aftermarket fuel guage in it, i want to put this back to stock using the factory guage. the aftermarket sender has 1 wire hookup, the stock plug that is bypassed (can see in pic) has two wires... do i need to just order a few factory sending unit or can the stock guage work off just one wire? thanks. ill address the headlights more when if i can figure the fuel sender out first.

 

Something to consider if ordering a new fuel level sender is to get one with a low fuel level sensor - in order to ADD a low fuel level indicator light. This is available for 92-95 Civics from Honda USA. Check my DIY page for a link with part numbers. Will plug and play to your existing setup but down the road when you are ready to tackle adding a low fuel indicator light, you will be prepped to do so.

The butt-connector crimped black wire that goes to the small YELLOW connector is for your SRS setup. That isht should really be soldered/heatshrinked because a shoddy connection with your SRS wiring could mean A) Bag explodes accidentally or B) Bag doesn't explode in an accident or C) Everything's fine.

Finally - the Yel/Wht wire that is mashed is the signal for your fuel level sender. Probably another good reason why isht isn't working.

 

ha! awesome... the guy before me couldnt figure out why the guage wasnt working so he just said hell with it and put in a whole aftermarket setup... well i went to the salvage yard and got a factory fuel level sensor so ill go pop that back in and re connect all the shotty butt connectors and the yellow wire and heat shrink them... i bet it will work now. next i gotta figure out what the deal with the headlights is ( the car had remnants of an alarm system and more shotty exposed wires twisted together ). i cut all the alarm junk out and ran out of time... hopefully tonight or tomarrow ill get back out and reconnect/cover all the wires that were tapped into for the alarm and hopefully thats what the deal with the headlights is. thanks! ill report back with new findings asap

 

Sounds like you need to get a multi-meter and start checking for excessive voltage drop through out your connections?