who running a supercharger?
I ran a comptech supercharger wit 3 inch pulley and the smaller k24 5.89 inch crank pulley on methanol with Go-power header, exhaust, and injen intake. I made 340whp and 240whp on a dynapack. I loved it, sounded awesome, and great power band. I was very content with set up since most turbo guys make about 350-450whp if you get a nice one and not a greddy kit and with a greddy kit I've only seen 3 guys break 300whp. Any more after than I'm fighting traction and it's pointless if you can't get it to the ground. Plus you'll need to lower your compression and build your bottom end plus run a return fuel line if you try to make over 450whp normally. Even with 360lph Deatchwerks fuel pump and 1300cc injectors. You don't have enough fuel pressure since we have our fpr in the tank and fuel pressure is set so making 450whp is about max. Yes you can crush your fpr to increase fuel pressure but that can only go so far. Turbo charge set ups cost about double what a blower would be. If I ported my manifold, bigger tb, straight through inlet, cams, and run an aftercooler I could've made 400whp on my blower with 13psi... IF you have any questions just pm but I'm hardly on here. I'm mainly on 8th gen civc and a lil on crsx. hope that helps a lil bit
I forgot to tell you that I blew my transmission twice and I had to rebuilt it. Literally just blew my tranny 2 days ago and I just shread off 2nd gear teeth on the main shaft and I had a few missing teeth on my 1st gear counter shaft. I need a whole new tranny or spend about $800 on parts since I need a new counter and mainshaft which are about $200 each and 1-2nd gear set. The only true fix on our transmissions is to buy ppg gears or dog box trans but now your talking $5000-$6000. literally those teeth will not shear off but the the engagement teeth my get worn over time.
thanks muckles. Is the cte blower kit the same as the comptech blower kit. i heard somewhere is this true? the power u made was it with just i/e/h.
I like the cte setup over the jackson setup. Kraftwerks has not yet come out with a setup that bolts to the Civic and retains a/c. A company in Europe called TTS has something that will work and can be intercooled, but I don't know much about it.
I think the cte supercharger is the best street setup anyway. Very clean to install and you can add smaller pulleys and an aftercooler to make more power. So, that's my vote... a cte supercharger, aftercooler, smaller pulley (pulley boys), flashpro, and 800cc Deatchwerks injectors. Add a good header and a exhaust and you have a very nice street supercharger system. And make sure you get it properly tuned as well...that's important.
Hope that helps.
Chris
I think the cte supercharger is the best street setup anyway. Very clean to install and you can add smaller pulleys and an aftercooler to make more power. So, that's my vote... a cte supercharger, aftercooler, smaller pulley (pulley boys), flashpro, and 800cc Deatchwerks injectors. Add a good header and a exhaust and you have a very nice street supercharger system. And make sure you get it properly tuned as well...that's important.
Hope that helps.

Chris
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Comptech and Jackson supercharger use the same size blower M62. I ran 800cc deatschwerk injectors, walboro fuel pump, go-power header and exhaust with an Injen cold air intake. With a 3 inch pulley and K24 crank pulley I was boosting 13psi which the max you can run before it runs out of efficiency. I ran methanol bc of the bigger gains and better cooling in my opinion plus you get 110+ octane at the 1/4 of the price of running race gas. If you don't want to go with the hassle of filling up with methanol then an aftercooler is a great option. I still had room for improvement to make more power. Mercs racing makes aftercooler's for comptech and jackson racing. It cost about $800-$900. The only disadvantage of the comptech kit is the design of the manifold bc you can not run as big as a core as the jackson kit if running an aftercooler. Other than that their pretty much the same. The comptech kit you have to put an ac spacer so the blower can fit over the ac line. I ran mine without putting the spacer, I just unbolted the ac compressor so I had room to get the blower over the ac line. Also I didn't like that your suppose to crush the fuel pressure regulator located in the fuel pump cage/assembly. To me personally that's kind of ghetto riggin it so I didn't. Some people do some people don't but I recommend putting in a walboro 255lph pump. If your gonna do it right buy a FPR and run a return line setup. Even if you did crush the stock FPR you don't know how much fuel pressure you increased. Running fuel pressure should be 48-55psi according to OEM specs. By crushing your FPR it's suppose to raise it to 65-70psi ish. The only way to truely know how much you increased it by is to put a fuel pressure gauge to it. The reason why you do it is because let's say you boost 13psi and your stock fuel pressure is 50psi you will drop down to 37psi. The last thing you want is to lose fuel pressure and run lean and possibly detonate. By running an aftermarket FPR 1:1 ratio and return line. So if your stock fuel pressure is 50psi and you boost 13psi that 1:1 ratio means for every 1 psi you gain 1 psi of fuel pressure so your end fuel pressure will increase to 63psi instead of dropping to 37psi from your starting 50psi. So crushing the stock FPR increase's your fuel pressure let's say to 70 psi and only drops down 57psi if boosting 13psi. It's basically a way to cheaper way to increase fuel pressure aka "wanna be 1:1 FPR and return line" I guess. My bad luck I over crushed my stock FPR in the little tool that comptech gives you and I had no fuel pressure. I had to order a stock one and just put it in. Also when I had my 800cc deatschwerk injectors at 13psi my duty cycle was almost maxed out meaning I was running out of fuel. When I installed my Walboro fuel pump my duty cycle dropped down significantly and I had no more worries about my fuel issue. It is possible to run 100% duty cycle and be fine and alot of people do it or close to maxing out your duty cycle. The only bad thing is that it doesn't give you enough time for the injector's to cool down so your injector's do not last as long.
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