B16a SirII, B16 Transmission. Eg hatch, P28 chipped ecu On chrome/ vvt chip i think. Redline 8600, vtec 5400, no nock sensor, no o2 sensor, manual second step depending on rpm then floor it it locks at that rpm, check engine shift light, stock exhaust, piece of **** cold air intake from ebay i think. Just decided to do a video for once. I know the pulls arent that long but it defiantly feels like my car is a Subaru, well it at least sounds like one. It doesnt really go anywhere either. Vtec cracks really hard but rpms really slowly go up. Im thinking Bad Head Gasket, Valve seals, or rings, or something else maybe a combination of things. I really have no clue, i mostly diagnose electrical issues. I feel i can say the ecu has a part of this "no Power". Well anyway heres the video "Flame on People" http://youtu.be/UswLQqCPv6I

 

did you build that car or just buy it off someone already modded? did u let the car warm up before driving it? my civic tends to have the same problem if i dont let it warm up or idle for about 15 min. try that next time and see if it works.

 

Yes its was warmed up, its does the same thing cold. It doesnt over heat either. And i bought the car that way. I have an imported motor in my garage i could slap in. I kinda dont trust this motor. after owning the car for a while i noticed he twisted and taped most of the wires on the car. Stuff like that really pisses me off. Really man? tape? really?? I think the guy just needed some fast cash and whipped it together in a few days. Idk but what ever is wrong with it, i want to fix it.

 

ok, so i called a few people and some people have told me to check my catylitic converters? so just dis attach them and see what it does. Does that sound like something that could cause my problem?
This is one of the things i read online.

Also when, Keep in mind my ecu is "chipped" no o2 sensor. In proper tuning could cause it to run rich and im pretty sure it does run rich because my mileage has been terrible sense i got it. And the owner before me only had the car a week, first thing he did was weld up exhaust. I read that the "cheap Catalytic converters plug up really easy on high reving honda motors. I do admit it i have been a little rough on this car sense i got it "really fun to drive haha". So is it possible my cat is clogged? or something? i took off my aircleaner too and it didnt seem to be sucking air. mostly blowing kinda weird if you ask me.

 

check them both. for the converter just take it off and rattle it. if it sounds like a maraca sell it to a scrap yard. or you could shake the hard stuff inside out, bolt it back on and see what happens( might be illegal to to that). just asking why would you buy the car if it was a rushed project? "**** spewed out the side of the engine" umm thats not good. and you have another motor on hand?
Also have you ever been in a b16 before? have you drove the car before your problem and it wasnt as sluggish? you might just mistake your car for having more power then it really has, you know its only a 1.6 liter, your not gonna have a tremendous pull in 4th gear. that video seems about right to me, but hey ur the owner you will know your car better then me.

 

By Spewing out i just meant there has been some fluid coming out, most likely tranny fluid. And no i didnt just buy someones rushed project. I just bought someones car who was a complete dumbass putting it together. Found pot under the carpet too . And that video i was flooring in from 40 it would usually go right up then hit vtec and redline really quick but that wasnt the case it, kinda really slowly accelerated. I will make a more clear video of the tach when im im available in daylight. Im thinking its a combination of things, and i keep hearing people say its just a 1.6l A 1.8l would be much faster. well that may be... but not by much it should atleast have a steady acceleration. its more like a bwaaaaaaaaaaa and the tach slowly moving up.
The previous owner welded the cat to the exhaust piping and the header down pipe. id rather not clamp stuff. i will rent a cat tester gauge and test it.


Edit: also in 5th gear it takes like 1 minute to get from 60 to 70
also vtec will kick in very very slowly in 3rd 4th and 5th sometimes 2nd. i know its not supposed to rpm jump but it feels like vtec isnt even there. like its just making noise and not doing anything.


And for those of you who say its just a 1.6L.... Well here is the 1.6L Matched up to the Gsr 1.8L
Well atleast my motors specs B16a sirII

JDM B16A (Second Generation)
Found in:
1992 JDM Acura Integra "XSi" (DA6)
1991-1994 JDM Honda Civic Sir/SiRII (EG6)
1991-1993 JDM Honda Civic Ferio SiR (EG9)
1992-1995 JDM Honda CRX Del sol SiR (EG2)
1996-1998 JDM Honda Civic Sir/SiRII (EK4)
1995-1998 JDM Honda Civic Ferio Si (EK4)
Displacement: 1,595 cc (97.3 cu in) 1.6 liter
Compression: 10.4:1
Bore: 81.0 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 77.4 mm (3.0 in)
Rod Length: 134 mm (5.3 in)
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.745
Power: MT: 178 PS (180 HP) @ 7,800 rpm & 16.0 kg·m (157 N·m; 116 ft·lbf) @ 7,300 rpm
VTEC engagement: 5800 rpm
Redline: 8200 rpm (AT: 7700 rpm )

--------------------------------------------
USDM B18C1
VTEC
Found in:
1994-2001 USDM Integra GS-R (DC2/DB8)
Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
Compression: 10.0:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
Rod Length: 137.9 mm (5.4 in)
Rod/Stroke Ratio: 1.58
Power: 170 hp (127 kW) @ 7600 rpm
Torque: 128 lb·ft (174 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
Redline: 8100 rpm (Fuel cut-off @ 8200 rpm)
VTEC Engagement @ 4400 rpm @ 5750 rpm



JDM B18C
SiR/GSR
VTEC
Found in:
95-98 JDM Honda Integra SiR/SiR II (DB8, DC2)
98-99 JDM Honda Integra SiR-G (DB8, DC2)
Red Line: 8200 rpm
Rev-Limit: 8484 rpm- 8550 rpm (*For some only, most newer model SIR/SIR-G cut off at 8254rpm)
Power: 132.39 kW (180 PS; 178 bhp) @ 7200 rpm & 128 ft·lbf (174 N·m) @ 6200 rpm
Displacement: 1,797 cc (109.7 cu in)
Compression: 10.6:1
Bore: 81 mm (3.2 in)
Stroke: 87.2 mm (3.4 in)
VTEC Engagement @ 4500 rpm


just saying, Torque is really your only difference in power. and the b16's can go to crazy rpms. BTW STOLE THIS OFF WIKIPEDIA LOL, but its legit wiki has been legit for a long time now.

 

if it sounds like a subie u have a dead cylinder. compression test it. also make sure all your spark plugs are getting spark.

 

Hey matey, not sure if u fixed ur b16 problems yet but it sounds like you have a valve clearance issue. Badly adjusted valves will go from a tappety sound to a Subaru like sound on wide open throttle. The car will sound like a Subaru but actually not going anywhere. Check it out and if I'm right, message me. Hope I have been of some help.

It's good to check the obvious stuff first before buying parts.

Other problems might be:
There might be a hole or gap in ur exhaust system And as u said u had no O2 sensor so the noise maybe coming through that hole.

 

Well it doesn't really sound like a Subaru, but you can hear the itake really loud. And I think it might be because the cats plugged up so I'm just burning fuel and less air. And no I don't have a dead cylinder. All new dizzy, plugs, wires and cap and rotor. Its all new. And its getting spark I'm sure. Except I did have oil in my spark plug cylinders, leaky valve cover gasket. I replaced it. But I didn't do the plugs. I will pick up a set before I check the cat.

Edit: except I'd that were the case. I would be able to here a rattle. It wouldn't idle correctly whichever it does idle fine. The intake gets super loud. Never use to do that before, and its getting no power. I took the intake off and gave it gas and it seemed the same. But it seemed to be blowing air out of the intake. Haha bad intake seals in the head? Maybe idk. Its probably something simple. Sorry I get worked up over this stuff lol.

 

check the cat & definitely replace the spark plugs.

 

Found this...sounds exactly like what your car is doing! Hopefully this is it...would be a cheap easy fix!


https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/no-power-car-sounds-like-subaru-2931517/

 

will look into that, but now i have a bigger concern... Just Did a compression test. Disconnected 15amp fuse for fuel, disconnected distributor, took all spark plugs out. Put the gauge in
cyl 1 cranked 12 times at WOT Came out at 150psi
Cyl 2 was 140psi
cyl 3 was 150psi and
cyl 4 was 140 psi

I see that they are close but that seems low really really low. It should be up in the 200s Thats like 85psi difference from a good healthy motor. it shouldnt be that low. What do you guys think? maybe valve adjustment? Swap my motor? or is it something else causing my low compression. Also it burns oil.

 

And all my electrical is new. Distributor cap rotor and plug wires thats all new.

 

with a teaspoon of oil,
1:170
2:170
3:165
4:155

 

anyone??

 

Numbers seem a bit low...i think around 170-220 is just right...someone correct me if I am wrong...here is a couple threads that may help...


https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/b16-compression-numbers-2756858/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/did-compression-test-b16-getting-120psi-2517114/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/b16-compression-test-results-668181/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/b16-compression-test-should-read-2708864/ ---- CHECK THIS ONE.

 

To test the cat, just pull the O2 sensor and use your compression gauge threaded into the o2 sensor hole... The should be only 2 to 3 lbs of pressure.. Dont let it run long it could melt stuff .

Do you know what pistons he put in the motor?

 

i thought they were low. See the thing is, im not sure if it was built for turbo or something... It could have a low compression kit in it. Cuz the psi in all the cylinders seem pretty close together.

so i took my car for a ride today and it got stuck at 4k rpms i couldnt go past it, it sounded completely like a subaru. Then it got down to 3k rpms then 2k rpms then i just pulled over and it died. I heard raddling coming from the exhaust. So i assumed it was the catalytic converter broke up into pieces or something.. I jacked it up in the parking lot then i took my electric saw and a metal cutting blade and cut a slit right before the cat, not all the way through, just enough for the exhaust to have an alternative to escape. Well it started right up! But im still concerned about the compression in the engine. So i decided im pulling the motor and swapping in with my Sir I ... Also the imput shaft bearing is bad in my transmission and its not lsd either, i have another hydro b16 LSD transmission thats pretty much new that i will swap in with the B16. I will probably swap out the ctr cams too and run that. Im looking torwards getting a STOCK ECU sense this piece of junk gives me terrible mileage, but that could have something to do with the bad rings in the engine.
I will post lots of pics and if you want i can post a video of what the car sounded like when i had the cat problem.

 

i wanna see the video. hmm so your saying the cat converter was blocking exhaust flow making the engine run poor? i might have to get a new cat for my car too.

 

I would definently do a compression test first to see if its your motor, because even after i took the cat off the car still ran really poor. And the compression was low. Having a bad cat can ruin your valves. I will upload the video give me a few

 

before the cat got clogged, notice the poor acceleration, also loss in power because of low compression in the cylinders

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzB8xzFFG78

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xP48OBWXv3g

I believe my compression was so terrible because of the chipped ecu made the car run rich and that clogged the cat, which caused back flow in the engine ruining the valve seals, something in the head. I will see if i can get a picture of the valves. They look terrible, really really bad carbon build up i ccould see why my car wouldnt run correctly. I just need to take it in on the chipped ecu and get a good tune on my fresh motor so the same thing doesnt happen twice . Anyway if you notice a power loss in your car but your car runs perfectly. CHECK YOUR CATS. Take a compression test kit that you would use for checking your compression in the cylinders and plug it in where your o2 sensor would go.

I have the motor swapped, but the timing is terrible and the engine wont run. Im going to adjust the timing tomorrow.