Hi If you don't know I have a noise in the top end of my engine, Valve train. When I took the valve cover off to change the valve cover gasket I noticed that my rocker arms were loose, I did have a slight tick at the time. Without thinking and before knowing I just tightened them down. I then started the car and it sounded horrible. I only ran it for maybe 10 seconds. I removed the valve cover again then went inside and found out how to adjust the valves properly. I did the adjustment and now the valves sound like they do. I double checked all the valves and they are all within specs.

When the engine is cold it sounds the worst. It will get quieter but is still really noticeable when warm.

I guess my first question is does this car have push rods?

It is a 1991 Honda Accord F22A1

Second if it does how do you change them?

Thanks for your help.

Here's the link to the video on youtube. The audio is crappy and makes sound like bottom end but it is top.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZFcPoue2hQ

 

These Honda engines don't have push-rods. Instead they have rocker arms. Your engine is somewhat loud, but I'm so used to mine due to the bigger lift cams I have in my H22; thus, loud valvetrain noise than factory.

What spec did you have the clearance at? It should be 0.10" on the intake side and 0.12" on the exhaust side cold.

 

K so could any damage have come from that or is it just misadjusted valves.

One thing is when I adjusted the valves it was quiet but it slowly got louder.

 

If you tightened the begesus out of them possibly, but more than likely the valves would have just hung open and the car would have run like crap.
When adjusting the valves the engine must be cold. If you still have an occasional loud lifter, it could be the valve hanging up due to carbon/varnish buildup on the stem. A good fuel additive such as seafoam would help remove it.

 

You can't damage anything when you have valve lash too loose; thus, loud valvetrain. But you can when it's too tight cause it can keep the valve open and makes it not run right. Have you take off your valve cover just to see how clean the head on the inside is?

 

I've had the valve cover off a few times and it is just oily, just how it should be. But what do you mean by how clean it is?

 

Hi I was trying to do the valve adjustment the same way as EricTheCarGuy but I couldn't turn the engine over with the power steering pump the say way. The belt just slipped. The Plugs were out is there anything I could do so I don't have to use the crank pulley?

It only slips counterclockwise, clockwise turns fine, but I wasn't sure I should go clockwise. Everything I read said counterclockwise. Does it matter?

 

Some might disagree, but that sounds like a normal F22 with high miles. I believe what you might be hearing is piston slap, which is no big deal on these engines. I’m assuming you have some sort of non-stock intake, because of the throaty noise during shut off.

 

I thought piston slap right away, but it only started after I tightened the valves then reset them. Yes it has a cold air intake.

 

LOL @ pushrods. TOO funny. Knowledge is the key to life!

 

Highly doubt it's piston slap. This isn't an old V8 or boosted engine that's running big clearances. These engines run a piston to wall clearance of 0.02mm - 0.05mm (0.0008" - 0.002").

If anything that sounds as if it might be a rod knock. That is if it's coming from the bottom end. If it's coming from the top end of the engine. It's more than likely improper valve clearance or bent/worn adjustment tappets.

 

I agree with Ghost. Piston slaps is very noticeable right from a cold start. And you'll definitely know that it's coming from the bottom end if listen with a stethoscope or a long screwdriver. My '95 Prizm LSi has piston slap at cold start then goes away as the piston expands from the heat.

 

I would have to respectfully disagree.

This is not a valve clearance or connecting rod bearing issue, piston bores and skirts don’t hold clearances forever. If it was a connecting rod the noise would get worse as the oil warmed up and thinned out.

I don’t think the OP has anything to worry about. I’ve heard a lot of cold F22’s that sound like this after they get high miles and yet they keep on going.

 

I did the adjustment again. All but one valve was in spec, so now they are all in spec. It still sounds like it did, but now sounds more like a sewing machine. I think I will have my auto teacher help me go through the valve lash since he has more experience then me. Thanks for all your help. If anyone has any input it would be appreciated.

Do you think I should record the sound now so you can see if it is better?

 

Here's how the car sounds now, hope you guys can help me.

http://youtu.be/8VRNaqokFfg

I noticed that when the car is cold I can hear it inside the car at idle. When I'm driving I can only hear while accelerating from a stop, only when the car is cold. When I let go of the gas it goes away.

 

sounds pretty normal to me, not too different than my 250k honda crx i am in now.

 

Yeah, doesn't sound too different.

 

I would like to add a comment in response to the claim that loose valves can't damage anything.

Excessive valve lash can cause impact damage to the cam lobes from the lobes smacking into the rockers as the cam turns.

It will cause flat spots in the lobes.