Painting screws and washers so they don't peel
so i am too cheap to pay 17+ dollars for 5 bolts and washers from PWJDM when for 21 dollars i can get paint screws and washers from home depot but when i did it on my civic they started peeling what would be the best way to paint these washers so i can add some bling to my engine bay without it starting to look like ****
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,494
Likes: 2
From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
you probably need to media blast the bolts first, tape up the threads so you don't blast off the corrosion resistant finish on them, you need to either prime or use one of the combination primer/paints. you will need to bake the paint to make it as chip resistant as possible. You can get pretty decent epoxy paints such as vht, your best option is probably powdercoat, what colors are you looking at? if you want to do basic black or a single color, you can get a reasonably priced powercoat kit from eastwood. you would need it and an old oven that won't be used for food anymore
you probably need to media blast the bolts first, tape up the threads so you don't blast off the corrosion resistant finish on them, you need to either prime or use one of the combination primer/paints. you will need to bake the paint to make it as chip resistant as possible. You can get pretty decent epoxy paints such as vht, your best option is probably powdercoat, what colors are you looking at? if you want to do basic black or a single color, you can get a reasonably priced powercoat kit from eastwood. you would need it and an old oven that won't be used for food anymore
ok so i went to the VHT site
Off the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Thanks for your help guys
Off the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Thanks for your help guys
Even 2K automotive paints and primers will not adhere well enough or be tough enough to withstand torquing down the bolts. The only thing I have seen that will is the moisture-cure stuff like POR15 or Rust-Bullet.
You are wasting your time with rattle can stuff. It will look OK for a while, but it just isn't very durable... Baking them does nothing, that is for powder-coating.
Why not go with aluminum stuff from McMaster or Fastenal or something? Not that much $$$ and it looks fine
You are wasting your time with rattle can stuff. It will look OK for a while, but it just isn't very durable... Baking them does nothing, that is for powder-coating.
Why not go with aluminum stuff from McMaster or Fastenal or something? Not that much $$$ and it looks fine
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Even 2K automotive paints and primers will not adhere well enough or be tough enough to withstand torquing down the bolts. The only thing I have seen that will is the moisture-cure stuff like POR15 or Rust-Bullet.
You are wasting your time with rattle can stuff. It will look OK for a while, but it just isn't very durable... Baking them does nothing, that is for powder-coating.
Why not go with aluminum stuff from McMaster or Fastenal or something? Not that much $$$ and it looks fine
You are wasting your time with rattle can stuff. It will look OK for a while, but it just isn't very durable... Baking them does nothing, that is for powder-coating.
Why not go with aluminum stuff from McMaster or Fastenal or something? Not that much $$$ and it looks fine

Moisture cured urethanes are allright, but honestly not necessarily much better than a 2k catalyzed or epoxy.
POR15 is MUCH more durable than 2K catalyzed paint...MUCH more.
I'm not sure how I feel about POR. I know it is is extremely durable, but I know some friends in the auto body industry who have had nasty experiences with it. Some guy coated his frame with it and had it rust through because the POR wouldn't flex with the metal on hard turns and made micro cracks that fostered rust.
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,494
Likes: 2
From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
VHT is a ceramic paint, and much like ceramics need a kiln, VHT needs to be baked. It is intended for high high applications and ceramics are about the only thing that can withstand that.
I'm not sure how I feel about POR. I know it is is extremely durable, but I know some friends in the auto body industry who have had nasty experiences with it. Some guy coated his frame with it and had it rust through because the POR wouldn't flex with the metal on hard turns and made micro cracks that fostered rust.
I'm not sure how I feel about POR. I know it is is extremely durable, but I know some friends in the auto body industry who have had nasty experiences with it. Some guy coated his frame with it and had it rust through because the POR wouldn't flex with the metal on hard turns and made micro cracks that fostered rust.
I'm not sure how I feel about POR. I know it is is extremely durable, but I know some friends in the auto body industry who have had nasty experiences with it. Some guy coated his frame with it and had it rust through because the POR wouldn't flex with the metal on hard turns and made micro cracks that fostered rust.
I always get the piece down to bare metal, clean it, then mist with water for a couple days to get a good coat of bright orange surface rust, then scuff the rust and apply POR. Sticks like a ****
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