Okay so everytime i hit over 3k engaging boost with the gas firmly pressed the car struggles to get up kinda studders, also has a weird rpm shock the gauge goes nuts. i have no clue what it could be, i have external msd blaster ss coil with stock gsr dizzy with msd cap, plugs and ngk bkr7e plugs gapped at .22

car used to studder with stock coil nut the rpms wouldnt do what it does, now the rpms studder with the external coil, hoping it could fix the problem but it didnt.

anyone got any hints on what it could be? thanks in advance

 

anyone? i will upload a video showing what the rpm does soon.

 

That would be best.

 

Turbo civicr93, please describe your setup. Not only poor/weak ignition causes studder. Mismatched parts can cause those problems you are describing.

 

is the car tuned?

 

GSR b18c1
@ 7lb of boost
ITR LSD tranny
skunk 2 pro series intake manifold
hks bov
greddy 18g dsm turbo w/ greddy exhaust manifold + downpipe
dsm 440cc injectors w/ comptech fuelrail
skunk2 stage 1 cam shafts
turbo timer dont work anymore so i jus wait in the car before i shut off, every 40 sec
stock gsr dizzy w/ msd blaster ss external coil,
also HAD the MSD 6a running but somehow doesnt work anymore, dk if the box itself needs to be grounded. but thats the only change i did so far besides replacing the whole dizzy.
car is tuned on chrome fr 10lb of boost, only running 7lb so far, its safe but jus burns alot of gas.

im thinkning it could be the spark issue, to much fuel, little spark even with the external coil. i dont want to mess with it cuz i dont want to make it worse.

going to try to upload video today

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sfuZ5Cuisk

heres the video of 5th gear, it does it in all gears but i was on the freeway.
video shows me driving normal then when i firmly step on it, watch the rpms i have so much HP loss

 

looks like a poor tach signal from the dizzy

 

thats what i was thinking but you think that could also drop my horsepower? and make the car sound like its getting maybe too much fuel than spark, or the otherway around.

 

this answers your whole question. if you tuned with it then it could be the problem. i was giving the motor that more output of voltage before, but now you dont have it. im not really explaining it well so just check out this link. the first page under THEORY : http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedF...structions.pdf

 

it also works with your tachometer, it has a setting on it so it could be whats messing with the tach as well

 

thats exactly what i was thinking. to fix the problem i maybe need to gap the spark plugs less? or get another 6a box ?

 

Or you could just convert back to OEM cap and coil, since aftermarket ignition is not needed in youre set-up. I had a MSD box and blaster 2 coil. All that thing did was give me problems and got less then 1000 miles out of it trouble free. Went back to OEM and never had a issue. You're gap of .022 is good if you switch back to OEM. Most people i know dont upgrade ignition unless there well over 500whp...

 

you should go back to oem ignition. i am at .030 and have no blowout.

 

i was OEM till, it was "lagging"/"spuddering" worser then it is now, but the rpm gauge wouldnt go all haywire as it shows in the video, so maybe 0.22 is to big for OEM, or maybe when my car broke down and had used another OEM dizzy for awhile it prob burned out the electrode and exposed my gap alittle further, ima check it after work. but thats what ive been hearing alot about msd, no way in hell my car is over 500 whp.... yet

 

i have the 6a model, the 6al model is the one that works with my tach.

 

You shouldnt have any issues with oem at youre power levels.... i have zero issues and run much more boost/power. Even at .030 you shouldnt have blow out at 10psi...i never had a issue until after 15psi then reduced it too .022-.024 and again no issues since.

If its feeling laggy with oem ignition compared to msd i would look into getting a re-tune. Change it back to OEM and spend the money to get a re-tune. That will solve all youre problems