I have a 1997 dc2 with a few mods (I/H/E) and the motor just died when I was shifting from 3rd to 4th...I had the car towed home,

the motor turns, but it just wont fire up...as if it wasn't getting gas, the tank is half full, and ive never had issues with this car (ive owned it for over 12 years), the car has 133K miles...

the tow truck driver said it may be something in the distributor...

do you guys have any suggestions?

thanks

 

Are you getting spark? Stick a flathead in the spark plug wire and hold it near a ground, listen for a tick or look for an arc.

Im hoping you didnt snap a timing belt =(

 

i didnt check the timing belt, but i didnt see a broken belt or anything (oil/fluid) on the ground or in the area...has anyone ever had an issue like this?

can it be something in the distributor?

 

I'd say it was the timing belt or distributor..check for spark as stated above

 

I agree with the distributor (coil at the top of the list, and replacements can be found inexpensively).

Can you see the cam gears moving, to tell if the timing belt is intact? If not, consider removing the distributor cap to see if it moves during cranking. (disconnect the distributor's connector so you don't fry the ignitor/coil during testing).

If the distrib/cam is rotating and you suspect that the timing belt slipped, use a timing light. If it's on or close you should be fine - if it's slipped the light will be firing about 10.25 degrees off for each tooth it's slipped. Hopefully, you heard no noise when it stalled - that might otherwise indicate valves impacting piston due to a slipped belt.

When you first turn the key and the cluster lights come on, do you hear the fuel pump run for several seconds? If not, look at fuses and/or the main relay.

Let us (all) know how the diagnostics are going - there's an incredible amount of talent and experience all listening.

Mark

 

awesome...thank you guys for the help!

i am by no means a mechanic, i can do little things, but ive never swapped a motor or used a timing gun...i can just put basic bolt ons on and do oil changes...

i didn't hear any weird noises, and i don't drive my gsr around that much...i only drive it when im getting away from my wife...lol...

im gonna check the fuse box, i heard theres a 50amp fuse and that may be the issue, when i turn the car on i don't know how to listen to the fuel pump, i've never noticed the fuel pump noise before...the tow truck guy checked for the fuel pump noise and he said he couldn't hear it...im going to remove the distributor cap tonight after work and see if anything looks weird, im also going to take the valve cover off to see if the timing belt broke...hopefully this isn't the case

if it is my timing belt...whats the worst case scenario? in the worst case scenario what would need to be replaced? i love my gsr, and ive pretty much only kept it for sentimental reasons, so regardless of the issue, im pretty sure im just going to get it repaired...

thanks for the responses

 

While you crank and the engine does not start, does the tach needle remain dead-still, or does it jiggle just a tiny bit?

Does the Check Engine light remain on the whole time you crank? Does it go off at first then go back on again while cranking?

 

My friend had a similar issue with his DB. Turned out it was his dizzy

 

I would start by listening for the fuel pump...

Sit in car, close the doors, make sure it is as quiet as possible, no radio or noise from outside, turn the ign. key to on/run, not all the way to start, a few things should happen

1- the cluster should turn on, warning lights, fuel gauge, [if you have gas] the CEL will turn on.
2- at the same time there will be two (2) "clicks" from under the dash right by the hood release, [it may sound like one click as they are very close together].
3- also at the same time the fuel pump will run for a few sec., [you will be able the hear it].
4- after a few sec. there will be a 3rd click from under the dash the fuel pump will stop and the CEL will go out.

If you do not hear the fuel pump, you have found why the engine stalled, [no fuel].

Why the fuel pump is not running could be one of a number of reasons, from a bad fuel pump to a blown fuse or a problem with the PGM-FI Main Relay, [common on older Honda/Acura].

If you do hear the fuel pump running, turn ign. off and on again, wait till pump stops and repeat, cycle the fuel pump a few times then try and start the car, let it crank for a few sec., if no start, immediately remove a spark plug, [you should have spark plug socket ready] and inspect the end of the plug, is it "wet" with gas, does it smell of gas?

If so^^^ the fuel system is working, [PGM-FI Main Relay, fuel pump, fuel injectors].
Now plug the spark plug lead onto the spark plug and ground the plug to the engine and have someone crank the engine, [try and start it] do you have spark, if so, what color is it?

If no spark, I would look at the ign. coil, and the ICM, [igniter], but before you pull the distributor apart, make sure there is power going to the distributor assembly, black/yellow lead should be 12V+ when ign. switch is on. 94

 

That was the point of my questions regarding the behavior of the tach needle. If the tach needle is dead-still while cranking, the igniter has failed. And the igniter is inside the distributor.

 

Ignition Coil.....so common...its my bet but dont assume. Diagnose !

Don't go switching out the entire distributor, usually only 1 part has failed. I hate how garages will go to replace the entire dizzy with a generic cheapo dizzy when all that failed is probably a coil. 80 dollar fix.

 

Another easy diagnoses is the distributor cap/rotor. Take off the cap and look inside. See any black spots, like there was an arc. Also, even more common, the rotor. After you take off the cap, take off the rigor (right inside the cap.) And look for the same thing. Be sure there is no "burn" damage like there was an arc between the walls. If there is...that's why. Happened to an old Nissan of mine I had years ago all the time... Hope you can figure it out dude, and hopefully this helps.

 

thanks everyone for all of the help...i didnt find anything out this weekend, i have been super busy with family...

i did try to take my valve cover off to look at the timing belt, but two of the eight nuts that hold the valve cover down are stripped and keep spinning...i have to get those nuts off...i will keep you guys updated...

and thanks again for your help

 

You do not need to remove the valve cover to see if timing belt is busted or skipped a tooth, pull the timing belt cover instead, [#3]... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
Although now you will have to remove the VC as you have most likely undone the studs, [#18&19]... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal so you can reinstall them, you will also need a VC gasket "kit", [one that includes the "O" rings for the spark plug tubes.

You should be checking the simple things first, so your not taking things apart unnecessarily, it's going to be a PITA now if it turns out all that is wrong is one of the 3 fuses for the PGM-FI Main Relay is blown. 94

 

^very helpful...thank you