What could be with Precision turbo sc61 .60 .63?
I was taking off my turbo a couple days ago because my wastegate flange cracked off of my turbo manifold and then while doing that I noticed I had pretty significant back and fourth shaft play but both sides of the wheel where not chipped or touched and their was no markings on the housing from the wheel too. One thing that might help find an answer for my question is that, I went on the dyno and the turbo was starting to not make any boost and then completely seized up but i than eventually broke it free by hand and the reason I think it seized up was because of insufficient oil supply because I had a 3-an line but then someone on here told me to put a restrictor on it so I did like he said because I was brand new to the honda game and put a .65 oil restrictor, by doing that action I think that I burnt out the thrust bearing making it having that back and fourth shaft play. Please someone let me know what you think happened and how to fix it thanks. Also thought of buying a t3 t4 turbo rebuild kit and thinking it might fix the problem with that shaft play because it makes a clinking noise when I pull and or push on the compressor fins to check for shaft play.
A .065 restrictor wouldn't do that. Bad oil return line could. there are a dozen possibilities for it that call for an inspection. Unfortunately, for you, that will cost money. I mean, for everyone else, please voice opinions, but turbolsvtecej1, please be aware, its all subject to speculation in which only a true diagnosis (sent to a rebuilder) could possibly answer that question. GL.
the performance shop said that my turbo does not need a restrictor with a 3an line but only with a 4an line so that's what I think caused the problem too
depends on oil pressure. the .065 restrictor is common on high oil pressure engines like the b18c. you can try the -3 without one, see if it smokes and put it back if it does.
as shodan stated, tons of guys use the .065 and your situation was probably caused by either low oil psi in the engine or a kinked, non efficient return line
send it back to precision and see what they say
as shodan stated, tons of guys use the .065 and your situation was probably caused by either low oil psi in the engine or a kinked, non efficient return line
send it back to precision and see what they say
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Oil restrictors are a band-aid that starve the turbo's oil supply at low engine speeds. This can cause coking of the bearing oil after a dyno pull and subsequent idling. Why doesn't someone produce a pressure regulator for the turbo's oil supply? That would provide better oiling at idle and low speed operation while limiting pressure at high speeds.
it also in effects becomes a pressure regulator. a .065 restrictor at 90psi will produce X fluid ounces of oil per minute. a -3 line could be made to produce the exact same number of ounces by changing the pressure. same with a -4 and so on. as the line gets larger the oil pressure just would have to go down
Which is why a .030" restrictor is used to regulate flow to a consistent amount of 22psi of oil pressure. We understand the use of restrictors, and its need to find a balanced solution.
Good discussion it seems so far. I currently use a .060" restrictor and I haven't seen any issues so far. But that's just my specific case....
Back to the discussion about the flow regulator/restrictor. Some people have actually used a small valve on their oil feed line to be able to adjust the flow right before the turbo. I'm not sure what type of valve it is (ball, needle, etc), but it SEEMS like it would work good for tailoring each setup (I'm no expert though). You could start it out wide open and see if oil leaks past the seals or if drainage is an issue. If so, then just close it a little.
Back to the discussion about the flow regulator/restrictor. Some people have actually used a small valve on their oil feed line to be able to adjust the flow right before the turbo. I'm not sure what type of valve it is (ball, needle, etc), but it SEEMS like it would work good for tailoring each setup (I'm no expert though). You could start it out wide open and see if oil leaks past the seals or if drainage is an issue. If so, then just close it a little.
Good discussion it seems so far. I currently use a .060" restrictor and I haven't seen any issues so far. But that's just my specific case....
Back to the discussion about the flow regulator/restrictor. Some people have actually used a small valve on their oil feed line to be able to adjust the flow right before the turbo. I'm not sure what type of valve it is (ball, needle, etc), but it SEEMS like it would work good for tailoring each setup (I'm no expert though). You could start it out wide open and see if oil leaks past the seals or if drainage is an issue. If so, then just close it a little.
Back to the discussion about the flow regulator/restrictor. Some people have actually used a small valve on their oil feed line to be able to adjust the flow right before the turbo. I'm not sure what type of valve it is (ball, needle, etc), but it SEEMS like it would work good for tailoring each setup (I'm no expert though). You could start it out wide open and see if oil leaks past the seals or if drainage is an issue. If so, then just close it a little.
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