New here, i have a B16A tech question.
What I have is a 1998 civic with a B16A5 swap and a Jackson Racing Supercharger running about 10psi. When I get into higher rpms it starts an intense spit and sputter. By higher rpms, I mean 4500rpms and up. The spitting and sputtering to me feels like a spark issue. But I do not know enough about a car with my setup to make that call..
Mods include:
-The B16A5 swap has about 50k miles on it.
-This car has always had castrol syntec oil in its pan and shell V-power in it's tank.
-Jackson Racing Supercharger(full kit) the supercharger was rebuilt about a year ago, new bearings and seals. the oil in it though has not been changed since.
-NGK plugs (iridium) and wires (newer oem distributer, distributer cap, and rotor)
-hondata s200 w/ boost option
-Innovate LM-1 wideband and XD-16 guage
-Thermal r&d catback exhaust
-AEM dryflow air filter
-Fresh timing belt, pully, and water pump
My known issues of the car are:
-My wideband sensor became unplugged from the lm-1 hand unit which caused no power to the sensor and as far as i know, it burned up the sensor and now does not work properly.
-JRSC idler pulley is making some noise. It sounds like the bearings are going bad.
-The ground wire terminal connector has a crack which causes the ground wire to be a little bit loose but still tight enough that I cannot pull it off by hand.
What i have done to try to fix my issue:
-I have replaced the NGK iridium plugs with all new plugs.
-I have replaced the cap and rotor.
-I have replaced the catalytic converter (it was making a rattling noise, I replaced it because I did not know if the loose parts in the cat were causing a blockage in the exhaust.
-I have replaced the fuel filter (oem).
I hope this is enough info for somebody to help me try to diagnose my issue.
With all of that being said, this is my second honda, my first being a 89 prelude si. This car though is a first for me, I have never owned a vehicle with mods comparable to this one. I bought the car the way it is, I do know quite a bit about cars myself, but the supercharger is a whole new ball game for me. Honda cars themselves are. I am trying though, trying hard.
Mods include:
-The B16A5 swap has about 50k miles on it.
-This car has always had castrol syntec oil in its pan and shell V-power in it's tank.
-Jackson Racing Supercharger(full kit) the supercharger was rebuilt about a year ago, new bearings and seals. the oil in it though has not been changed since.
-NGK plugs (iridium) and wires (newer oem distributer, distributer cap, and rotor)
-hondata s200 w/ boost option
-Innovate LM-1 wideband and XD-16 guage
-Thermal r&d catback exhaust
-AEM dryflow air filter
-Fresh timing belt, pully, and water pump
My known issues of the car are:
-My wideband sensor became unplugged from the lm-1 hand unit which caused no power to the sensor and as far as i know, it burned up the sensor and now does not work properly.
-JRSC idler pulley is making some noise. It sounds like the bearings are going bad.
-The ground wire terminal connector has a crack which causes the ground wire to be a little bit loose but still tight enough that I cannot pull it off by hand.
What i have done to try to fix my issue:
-I have replaced the NGK iridium plugs with all new plugs.
-I have replaced the cap and rotor.
-I have replaced the catalytic converter (it was making a rattling noise, I replaced it because I did not know if the loose parts in the cat were causing a blockage in the exhaust.
-I have replaced the fuel filter (oem).
I hope this is enough info for somebody to help me try to diagnose my issue.
With all of that being said, this is my second honda, my first being a 89 prelude si. This car though is a first for me, I have never owned a vehicle with mods comparable to this one. I bought the car the way it is, I do know quite a bit about cars myself, but the supercharger is a whole new ball game for me. Honda cars themselves are. I am trying though, trying hard.
What heat raneg plugs are you running?
What plug gaps are you running?
Is it tuned or on a basemap?
Whats yoru a/f ratio look like in boost?
What plug gaps are you running?
Is it tuned or on a basemap?
Whats yoru a/f ratio look like in boost?
Thank you for some replies.
Okay so the first thing I will do is buy the new wideband sensor and get back to you as soon as I get it installed. It may be a couple weeks, so I will keep you updated on the progress.
The plugs that i have are NGK Iridium with the pre gap. I asked a couple mechanics around here and they told me that the pre gap is what I want. I later found, when i signed up on honda-tech, that there were some members talking about a smaller gap. So if there is some general specs I can try, I would appreciate the help.
As for the tuning, I was told that the car was NOT dyno tuned, but the hondata has a custom tune. This is info that was given to me by the person that i bought it from.
Okay so the first thing I will do is buy the new wideband sensor and get back to you as soon as I get it installed. It may be a couple weeks, so I will keep you updated on the progress.
The plugs that i have are NGK Iridium with the pre gap. I asked a couple mechanics around here and they told me that the pre gap is what I want. I later found, when i signed up on honda-tech, that there were some members talking about a smaller gap. So if there is some general specs I can try, I would appreciate the help.
As for the tuning, I was told that the car was NOT dyno tuned, but the hondata has a custom tune. This is info that was given to me by the person that i bought it from.
Last edited by james_moore; Oct 13, 2011 at 03:21 PM. Reason: needed more info
Thank you for some replies.
Okay so the first thing I will do is buy the new wideband sensor and get back to you as soon as I get it installed. It may be a couple weeks, so I will keep you updated on the progress.
The plugs that i have are NGK Iridium with the pre gap. I asked a couple mechanics around here and they told me that the pre gap is what I want. I later found, when i signed up on honda-tech, that there were some members talking about a smaller gap. So if there is some general specs I can try, I would appreciate the help.
As for the tuning, I was told that the car was NOT dyno tuned, but the hondata has a custom tune. This is info that was given to me by the person that i bought it from.
Okay so the first thing I will do is buy the new wideband sensor and get back to you as soon as I get it installed. It may be a couple weeks, so I will keep you updated on the progress.
The plugs that i have are NGK Iridium with the pre gap. I asked a couple mechanics around here and they told me that the pre gap is what I want. I later found, when i signed up on honda-tech, that there were some members talking about a smaller gap. So if there is some general specs I can try, I would appreciate the help.
As for the tuning, I was told that the car was NOT dyno tuned, but the hondata has a custom tune. This is info that was given to me by the person that i bought it from.
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Thats a pretty broad statement dont you think? Ive personally been running innovate wideband for years and have had one sensor go bad on me and thats after quite a bti of time and and incident with it getting soaked with oil lol
The only reason why my sensor failed was because my LM-1 unit is in the glove box and the sensor came unplugged for some reason. On the booklet for the innovate wideband it says on EVERY page that if the sensor has no power and the engine is running, it can damage the sensor from the hot exhaust temps.
It doesnt get damaged from the hot exhaust, the sensor has an internal heater that burns off the fuel that is in the exhaust. Basically its like a spark plug that isnt getting any spark it fouls out the sensor
I just called the dyno shop. They told me that they could get me in on monday, 2-3 runs for $85 and an hour for $145. When you asked "tuned or basemap?" what is basemap? i would guess it is hondata provided tunes? if so would it be a good idea to re tune?
Definitely re-tune this thing before the motor is damaged!
I was wondering if there was a possibility that the fuel pump is going out. what would be the best way to install an in-line pressure guage for this? i have seen some people have a gauge on the outlet of the fuel pump. i would like to do the same.
That's impractical on a passenger car. The gauges are placed at the fuel rail, or at least the sensor at the rail with the gauge in the car.
what shop do u know anyone who's had a car tuned there dont just go to any shop to get a tune look for good tuners in ur area u need a tune that 85 buck for 3 pulls is to see what ur car dynos no tuning and a base map is just a tuners quess to what will make ur car run to get to there shop or at least to turn on to get on the trailer
You can also use the service port on the outlet side of the fuel filter.
what shop do u know anyone who's had a car tuned there dont just go to any shop to get a tune look for good tuners in ur area u need a tune that 85 buck for 3 pulls is to see what ur car dynos no tuning and a base map is just a tuners quess to what will make ur car run to get to there shop or at least to turn on to get on the trailer
they are the only dyno shop in this area, i have heard great things about them, never a bad comment.
www.illinoisdynocenter.org/ <- if you have a minute to take a look.
I'm sure one of the vendors on here would have access to something like this:
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Fue...sure-Gauge-Set
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Fue...sure-Gauge-Set
So, I checked to see what the pre gap was on my spark plugs. They were pre gapped to .042. I did not tune my car. I did not spend hundreds. I just gapped them to .027 and now the car runs great. better than ever. well at least since ive had it.
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