Can someone tell me the best way to remove this?. It seems i cannot get a tight grip on the SPECIAL banjo bolt with an open face metric, and i don't really want to strip it by not using the right wrench.
Does the special banjo bolt need to be snug, and the service bolt need to be loosened?.
I don't understand why Honda couldn't just make both sides removable by loosening the same type of bolt.

If anyone has a good suggestion for removal, please share it with me. Thank you

 

Special banjo bolt? What are you talking about? You take off the incoming line with a flare nut wrench and use a socket for the for the out going hose. You tighten it down to around 25 ft/lbs of something - buy a manual it is your friend when you are lost. This is an extremely simple filter to change - they couldn't have made it much easier for you...

 

Yeah, that is what they call it in the Haynes. SPECIAL BANJO BOLT, and it does not come off easy.

Do you even know what i am talking about?. Not all Honda s apparently have the same type of procedure for removing a fuel filter.
Look up a 1991 civic lx with the dual port fuel injection, and tell me you don't know what you are talking about , when it comes to this fuel filter.

 

its the same filter that just about every other honda civic uses from 88-91.

it sounds like you need to man up some with better tools.

i use a socket on one of the bolts and then a wrench or a crowsfoot on the other. the hard ones were the 94-97 accords where you had the best results with flare nut crowsfeet.

 

While I did have a slight brain fart as what I was describing was the '92+ it still doesn't change the fact you are struggling with something as simple as a fuel filter... They are torqued down tight - just break them loose... If you have to then use an impact to zip them off...

 

Dude all you need is a good size breaker bar and just hold the filter so it doesn't move. I can do it and i'm a 120lb weakling. lol

 

I took two wrenches to the bolt on the right. One for the top, and one for the bottom (17mm?). You can also use an oil filter clamp to hold the fuel filter in place while you break the nuts, since we all know that cheap 10mm bracket grips like a 5 year old toddler.

 

with fire

Cliffs: didnt read

 

Cannot get either one to budge. I imagine this is the original filter, but for christ sakes, the thing can't be rusted in there.

And i have good tools BTW. The driver side one, has a 12 mm service bolt, followed by a washer. That service bolt is threaded into a fixed nut, which is connected to the SPECIAL BANJO BOLT, as it is called in the Haynes diagram on page 1-32, The diagram i am using is marked 40.13
The Haynes diagram makes no mention of this fixed nut which the 12 mm service bolt is threaded into.
Now, what exactly should i be turning (counterclockwise, i suppose) to get this EFFIN thing out of there.
Some mention 2 wrenches, OK, does 1 go on the 12 mm service bolt, or the 17 mm fixed nut, or the Special Banjo Bolt, which only an open faced adjustable wrench will fit on.
What bolt/nut needs a wrench for this thing to come out. ?
Again, the car is a 1991 Honda Civic Lx with a 1.5 dual port injection.
It shouldn't be so tough to remove this effin thing, so for the last time, PLEASE someone give me a step by step on what the hell i am supposed to be doing here!!. Thank you!!.

 

Have had filter issues like that to the point of removing the lines with the filter and clamping it in a bench mounted vice and going at it with all means of destruction. Required new hardware, but saved my lines.

 

Everyone makes it sound like this filter comes out with no big deal, but i am telling you that is not the case in my situation.
I hope it doesn't come down to replacing all the lines, just to get this god dam thing off.!

 

Your asking someone to give you a step by step yet you're referencing and using a Haynes manual. I'm not trying to be a jerk but no one on here is going to get more specific than a Haynes manual for you. Although Haynes manuals in my opinion suck. However, if you truely cannot figure this out on your own or cannot get it serviced with the tools you currently own simply take it to a shop and have them change it out. That way your liability for stripping anything is eliminated. This truely is a straight forward job though that shouldnt even require a Haynes. So use the closed end of your wrench not the open end.

 

which 1 bolt do you use a socket?. The 12 mm service, ? the fixed 17mm connected to the special banjo bolt? Or the special banjo bolt itself.
1 of those 3 i just mentioned are 1 of the 2, now which one is the other.
Maybe i am having a mental block or something
I do have pretty decent tools, but i do not own a 2 inch metal breaker bar, but apparently i need one to remove these 2 fittings.
I have sockets, craftsman to be exact.. open face sockets, and an sliding adjustable wrench, which i just bought today , solely to use to attempt to turn that "special banjo bolt".
It fits on there snug, but i still cannot get any type of movement using my own strength, and i am not a weekling, and the area is quite cramped, so i am being careful not to be swinging my arm around too quickly.
Does this "special banjo bolt " turn counter clockwise to remove, like a normal bolt, or should by turning a socket or open face on the 17 mm fixed nut be the trick to getting this fitting off.
Like i said i am having some type of mental block over getting this out, and i am really not stupid. Maybe i just need more power , like a 2 inch pipe to get this thing off.
I would just like to know for sure, what fixtures/nuts bolts, need to have a wrench on them, and which way i should be turning them for removal.
Like i said, i imagine everything should turn lefty loosy, but no one has yet verified this .

 

**** the 12mm!!thats for bleeding the line or seeing if u have any pressure...yes the 17 is a **** some times and u need two wrenches. one for the banjo bolt and the other is to keep the fuel line from turning and bending the little tab on the bottom...lefty loosy

 

the banjo bolt on the left i use a socket on, the banjo bolt on the right i use the crows foot on since its hard to get a wrench down there without moving the intake tube. they are very tight, between crush washers (copper or aluminum) and possible corrosion freezing it all together. they are both normal bolts, i dont think i know of a singl reverse thread bolt on a honda that i have come across.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FcJF7HaRlE

 

That video shows a fuel filter from a 2000, mine is a 1991, and looks nothing like that, except for the 10 mm bolt which holds the fuel filter in place.

Thanx anyway!!.

Apparently i have a mutant fuel filter that will not come out!!.

 

What kind of socket fits on that left side "special banjo bolt"?
The right side takes a 17,
The left side attached nut to the bolt is a 17
The Special banjo bolt can only be fitted with an open face adjustable, due to its unique shape. I am talking jibberish here, i just wish someone would just tell me how this ****ing thing actually is supposed to be removed.

 

I used i think a grinder wrench on mine, that or a crescent, can't remember which one worked, but it was a b&$#@ to get off, really tight. one thing i've done to get hard to reach stubborn bolts off is take a crescent or vise grips and tighten down on top, tool sticking sraight up, then use a bar or something to turn it, just be careful, if its not tight enough it'll mess up your bolt, but it does work most the time. Crescent is better for this, one with the hole in the end, then you can get a good long bar to stick through it.

 

Little tab on the bottom of the old fuel filter? Does that really matter since it is being replaced anyhow?. Are we talking about the same type filter?.

So you are saying the 17 goes on the affixed nut , which is connected to that special banjo bolt? YES OR NO??.
the 12 mm bolt does it matter if that is on or off?
the odd shaped banjo bolt gets no wrench at all on it?
What is the deal with just trying to replace a ****ing fuel filter?.
In my 300zx, it takes 5 minutes, i have a chevy, took 10, and this ****ing honda won't budge. Why does it have to be so ****ing difficult?.
The threads cannot be frozen in there can they? I sprayed some pb blaster around the fittings, but that didn't do ****!!.
I am just getting frustrated right now, i have other stuff to do on this car, and now i am ****ing stuck because of this.
Car doesn't run, i was putting in new injectors, plugs, distributor, but first i wanted to change the fuel filter.
Now until i get this ****ing thing out, i can't do anything else.
I just don't ****ing get it!!.
I cannot get 1 ****ing honest answer to this question.
But i do appreciate all you guys for trying!!.

 

My advice...step back from it for an hour or so, i can never get $#!% done when i'm pissed at it lol...and get clever, i really did have a hell of a time with mine too, it took a lot of muscle and some well placed torque. I'm 200 lbs and fairly fit and still had to crank like hell, i'm thinking they use that blue glue (super strong sh!#) on em, or maybe it was red. But either way i'm pretty darn sure it's glued, then after years and miles on em they are damn near seized in there, but they can and will come out.

 

What's with that video of Sasquatch changing a fuel filter?
Even a caveman can do it?

 

get yourself a crows foot that fits the "special" bolt, then you can use an extension and a pipe over the ratchet for leverage. i guess i got my banjos on backwards or you do.