Like the title says, can't get the bolt off, even tried a 3/4" 1000lbs gun. I have a 2hp, 20gl compressor that reaches 200psi. The gun I have uses 90cfm, so the gun is good for about a 2 second burst, which should break the bolt loose.

That didn't work, I've tried a breaker bar with my jack handle as an extension, still nothing. The crank pulley keeps wanting to turn! Is it because I have the timing belt pulled off the camshaft pulley?

I need some help, I'm changing my water pump, which I believe has a bolt hidden behind the crank pulley. Let me know if i'm wrong.

Thanks.

 

Crank pulley holder tool. See the FAQ for instructions.

 

Yea, I saw that. Autozone has one that I'm going to pick up today.

 

A lot of times the bolt requires constant pressure. An impact gun, no matter how much tq, won't always give enough sustained pressure to break the initial bond. I find using a breaker bar and the pulley tool works best. After that bond is broken, 9 times out of 10 you can remove the bolt by hand.

 

I'm a little scared to break the head off the bolt...I know its pretty beefy, but it can happen.

 

2 secs is not nearly enough time, and 20 gal is to small. You neeed a minimum of 26 gal, and 30 gal would be ideal. The Honda crank tool will work. Rent it or buy it.

 

Not with this bolt, its huge. Now breaking sockets and or wrenches, oh yes.

What I did.
Impact socket,
18" 1/2 extension,
two Crapsman breaker bar,
jack stand,
Jack handle.
Honda crank tool.

Place the crank tool and one of the breaker bars on the crank pulley.
Rotate the engine by hand to lock the first breaker bar against the ground.
With the second breaker bar, add the extension, impact socket, and use the jack stand to support the extension bar near the second breaker bars head.
Slide jack handle over breaker bar. Now carefully stand on the breaker bar and handle(which is parallel to the ground). Keep your hands on the hood of your car so you don't fall. It helps to do a light diving board action on the handle to help break the bolt free. It will slowly give way, when it does ride the breaker bar handle down to the ground. Step off the handle and loosen the rest of the bolt by hand.

 

When I can get a crank pulley bolt off, I'd go with my custom made crank pulley holder and then use a 19mm socket along with a 3/4" Breaker Bar to break the b*tch loose.

 

I am running into the same problem with my F23A4. I am using the method Mad_Mike listed except for one thing, the 18 inch extension in 1/2 drive. I don't have it in 1/2 drive. I have an 18 inch extension in 3/8 drive and I figure I'll give it a go with various adapters - 1/2 drive to 3/8 drive and vice versa - FAILED. I think I bend the 18 inch 3/8 extension a bit.

Gonna get a 20 inch 1/2 drive extension at Lowes this week and gonna give it go another try this weekend.

Saw a 3/4 drive breaker bar at HF this weekend and I was tempted to get one. Do they make 3/4 drive extensions in 20 inches? If not then I would need to get 3/4 to 1/2 adapter to get it work?

 

go with the 1/2" drive, it'll cost less and it works fine. I've used the method shown in my timing belt write-up multiple times with success every time, haven't broken a socket/extension/breaker bar yet :knocks on wood:

 

I'm in the GhostAccord's camp on this one. I would use a breaker bar with a 6+ foot pipe over the top of it. I twisted the end off a 3/8 adapter. Go 1/2" drive or bigger. It's really hard to get off.

 

Thanks for all the input, I feel confident once again!

 

As mentioned the 3/8" extension at that length and the torque requirements will just cause the extension to twist past its yield strength and fail. If it doesn't fail it just acts like a torsion bar, you wouldn't be able to induce any useable torque into the fastener to free it.
More than likely it would be special order from most stores, and the price grows exponentially with that size of drive. Even Sears does not carry that many 3/4" drive sockets if any.
I do recommend the 3/4" breaker bar and socket for use on breaking free those gigantic stub axle nuts.

I would not use the 3/4" breaker on removing the crank bolt as you still have to hold the crank in position. If the crank holding tool(I've only seen 1/2" drive) and/or breaker bar holding the crank pulley fails, there are a multitude of components that you may damage under the car from exploding bits.
With the 1/2" extension/breaker bar/cheater bar you are placing more stress on the breaker bar that is outside the car.

 

Got it loose ! Tried a couple of different angles with the breaker/cheater pipe. First off got the proper size extension (1/2" 20 inch at Pep boys). What finally worked was positioning the breaker bar/pipe at the 1 o'clock position, stepped on the jack supporting the 20 inch extension and pulled/pushed down like HELL. Then heard that beautiful sounding POP.

Now on to the job. When done I'll add to the TouringAccord's excellent timing belt writeup.

 

Remember the more extensions you use the more of your torque that is lost to torsion in the extension.