Up front, I do not yet own an Accord. I will end up buying a 2002 EX-L 5spd sedan. Not sure what color. I don't plan on modifying it right out the gate, but once the engine dies I will. Before that I am going to buy a part here and there, so when it dies, and when I rebuild it everything will be on hand.

My goal for the build is N/A, best reliability while fun.
Here is what I think I know....
f23a1 block, stroke 97mm, bore 86mm. Since I will wait until it craps out I will re-bore it to 87 because of the "out of circle" that happens over time.
h22a(X?) head.
I could keep the stock pistons because of stroke, depending on wear.
I will need to tune it
I can keep pretty much everything that attaches to the head h22 and don't need to pull from f23.

Here are my questions....

ECU
Where to buy
96 Prelude, why, how much
Open source Hondata
Harness

Intake
62 mm bored throttle body - 1
H22 IM - 1
Euro R IM, Skunk2, Roskoracing - 2, 5
Insulating gasket - 1

Exhaust
2.5 in custom - 1
Vinbrant high flow cat and muffler - 2
Mugen - 2
H or F header?

Pistons
Custom forged 87mm wiseco pistons, 11.7:1, 91 oct - 1
87mm, 3 cc dome, 22mm pin offset .030", 1.181 compression height - 3
k20a2 87mm, xx.x:1, xx oct - 4
http://www.raceeng.com/p-6808-wis-h2...1251rings.aspx

Rods
Stock F23 rods - 1
originals seem small - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/g23-question-please-help-2223904/
I've got the rods apart and am getting the LEs honed out to the Wiseco's 22mm pin today. - 3. As far as I am concerned this is gibberish. How are rods taken apart, and how does one hone an LE.

Cams
H22 type S - 1
Skunk2 Cam Gear

Other
ARP Head Bolts - 1
WTH are "beehive LMA's" - 1
Oil cooler
Trans cooler
MAP sensor, what to do with, how

Parts for engine 'refresh' - The car will be high mile when I get it, so I want to rebuild the motor while I build it up
Retainers OEM or after market
Springs OEM or after market
Rocker arms OEM or after market

Random parts list Will look at later
- K20a 11.5:1, H22 head, Crane roller rockers, Skunk2 High comp valves, Skunk2 Pro 2 Cams, Skunk2 Springs and retainers, Skunk2 Pro Cam Gears, Twm ITB, have not chose a header yet I am actually trying to wait for bisimoto to finish their h22 header, Kaizen speed Balancer shaft removal, Clutchmasters stage 2 Clutch
Fidanza 10.5lb flywheel,
Hmotors Single belt crank pully, Mfactory oil cooler.

between now and when I buy the car I will be finding answers to my questions, then posting them here with the source link. I realize, grammar ****'s, that these are not exactly questions, just topics that I am unclear on. If you feel like being gracious, you can answer some of my questions. All I ask is that you keep abbreviations to a minimum, unless before the abbreviation you put the words, e.g. air/fuel ratio (A/F ratio), then I will know for the future. Before you post them, I have read both of Pirate's threads, prelittleludes. I also did some google searches with the link modifier to their threads. GAWD it was a lot of reading. Now I am going to document it.

1) https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/g23-vtec-street-build-dyno-2781266/ dyno, read
2) https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/na-dyno-230whp-185wtq-neptune-tune-zeeman-2332309/ build, read
3) https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2433157&page=4 build, read
4) https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/my-f23-h22-87x97mm-h2b-build-2252451/ read
5) https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/h-series-intake-manifold-testing-brought-you-import-sports-2351032/ H22 vs Euro R IM dyno, read
6) http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=8214 Parts list, read

*note - read does not mean I understand what people are talking about.

 

Have you considered the blue-top H23VTEC?

 

Ecu - Hondata
Intake Manifold - Stock H22
Exhaust Mani - Bisimoto H22 header
Pistons - k20a2
Rods - Stock F23 rods

 

No I havn't, in my vast experience garnered over the last week of forum searching I hadn't seen people mention it. I will look into it. I did notice a lot of 6th gen people talking about the g23 like it was mythical and that half say good half say bad.

Why do you suggest the stock h22 header? I've been looking at some h2b threads, one with 610 pages, and some of them have k series RBC (I think off the TSX) and adapter plates on there's. That said I was probably going to go with the stock h22 because it has the least amount of work I would need to do to it as I just need to attach stock h22 components to it.

For the pistons, I believe people were saying k20a3 for the 86mm bore. I am 51/49 on boring it out to 87mm. Only because, after reading how to's on rebuilding a motor several authors comment on cylinders getting out of circle and turning into slight ellipses due to the path the piston takes. I haven't seen people complain about this with the f23 block, but I also haven't found many people doing a rebuild thread (as in bring broken engine back to stock levles; most seem to build up). Are the k20a2's 86 or 87?

For the pistons, I've read some people say the f23 rods are enough for a "basic" g23 build that it won't be an issue up until well past the 200, best case scenario/more than I intend to put in, WHP point. Others say why your in there why not replace them. Long term reliability is it worth it to stay with stock, or is there an aftermarket replacement that might be lighter and same reliability?

I will look into the header.

 

Found this parts list, sorted by level of interest

I am going to start post stalking the linked OP and see what all he's done.

Also, I know different forums have different etiquette for how much you attribute your information, source, etc. Let me know if I break any of the H-T rules. Its cool if you want to flame me, cooler still if you send a PM.

 

he said the stock h22 intake manifold and a bisimoto h22 header. two different parts. h2b is an adapter plate that allows you to bolt a b series transmission onto the h series engine or probably f series in your case. i believe they have the same bell housing

i think the h series intake manifold is your best bet due to a direct bolt on. some coolant hoses may need to be extended along with some wires. if you are looking for a manifold that will add more power(only due this with a tune) the euro r manifold is another great option. just requires some modification. many threads exist saying what needs to be done.

bisimoto header-if you can afford it then dont spend your money anywhere else otherwise the stock h22 header will work fine. i believe the downpipe is slightly different but an exhaust shop could easily mate everything up for you. if money allows it bisimoto header, a high flow cat, a resonator of some sort if you wanna keep noise down, muffler of your choice, and 2.5" piping all the way back

itb-individual throttle body-dont even worry about this. lots of tuning very expensive and more of a track mod anyways. ghostaccord has one of the nicest itb setups ive seen

i believe phearable.net will be able to get you the chipped ecu you need with hondata installed. your gonna need one of their obd2 to obd1 conversion harnesses along with a chipped obd1 ecu. let them know every little specific thing about your engine and they will get you a basemap so you can get to a tuner. but i think the safest thing to do would be to get it towed to the tuner.

 

its sad because the rest of the paragraph I was talking about a IM. I hate it when typos make me feel like a dumbass.

I read ghost's blog, seems crazy. 4 gsx (motorcycle?) throttle bodies. WAY to much work for me, TBH.

Thanks for the info on the tune. Honestly the two things I am most interested in/worried about is getting the right tune, as quickly as possible, and getting pistons that work with as little machining as possible as long as possible (so the h22 ones that require head work and the k20's are both probably a no go for me)

 

DAE know what piston to use if a bore the cylinders to 87mm? I know I updated my first post with some numbers pulled from pirates build, but then I saw that he had to mill his head to make them fit. I do not want to have to do that. Also, I do not know what all those numbers mean so I do not know how to adjust them to my needs.

 

Euro R IM will outperformed a stock IM. I don't know why a stock IM would be a good choice here. I know my 68mm ported Euro R pooped on my 69mm ported stock IM with Blacktrax IAB spacer delete. Gained 15wtq just from my Euro R.

 

What's an IAB and why did you do a spacer delete? How much did it run to get the IM ported?

Something that's killing me about doing the research....So I will apparently have to get the valve reliefs to match something. Not sure if pistons to match cams, or other way around. I've found people say something along the lines of "Make sure your valve relief matches your dome/cams. Just make sure you do your homework." WTF does that mean? The thread is like number 50 that I've read and the most useful thing I get out of it is that there is more for me to research, but unspecific enough that FML.

Is there a piston dome size valve release cam co-purchasing sizing how to for dummies? It looks like even if I go with the k20a2 pistons I will need to cut something somewhere down. Also, it looks like if I buy custom forged pistons that aftermarket are centered and not offset. Would an aftermarket centered piston last longer than a 180 rotate OEM piston? I will, on the outside, be looking at 220 at the wheels, if I copy the two build's I have linked so far. Also, I am much more interested in the torque up 4500 than the HP at 7000, so it will not be revved high all the time. Which of the two options would last longer? It seems like if I buy a centered piston that there would still be a 10mm offset which would cause more wear long term.

 

IAB stands for Intake Air Bypass. It's what we called butterflies. It opens up at a certain RPM for lowend torque. Reason I did a spacer delete is because I want to try something different and there's mixed review saying that if you removed your butterflies out of the stock IM, you'll see some gains. So I bought a Blacktrax Spacer which is known as a heat insulator as well. And I didn't have the IAB black box underneath the IM anymore. I then hook the IABs up by vacuum; ran it like that for couple of months and went with Blacktrax spacer. There's alot of ppl out there that doublestack the Spacers for more volume, and it will increase power as well.

I paid $80.00 for getting my inlet ported by Roskoracing. He does good work, and I bought my Euro R IM from him all ported and ready to bolt-on.

 

I just looked into them, I might, eg unlikely, buy one in the future, but TBH I would rather drop the 450 into suspension and braking. It would be more likely if I am going to drop another 450 into the head to put that into aftermarket cams, or an adjustable cam gear. I did find a cool thread out of it, which I will post in hear in case anyone else is looking into them.

 

seems to me you need to learn a little more about these engines in general before getting yourself into something way over your head.

 

Your probably right. Do you know of a link I can read to understand compression ratios, static and dynamic, how the cam affects it, and which numbers do what to where?

How big of an issue is this? Is this the only person who has done this?