slipknotko

i have a new f23 block and h22 head ,. a t04e turbo 3" intercooler system, 550cc injectors, 74 mm skunk 2 throttle body, pro series h22 intake manifold skunk2. aftermarket fuel rail. forged f23 rods and pistons 86m bore with 97 mm stroke. aftermarket ecu cant remember what the tune shop put in. project to work on over the winter. any thing else i should be adding to make the build work / possible. 20 psi boost is where i want to be i think.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I guess I'm trying to understand. Is this a question about what you're missing, or a build thread you have started, or..... This is vague.

slipknotko

is what i have adequete and what will i need to make this possible

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

See comments in Red

slipknotko

3" intercooler piping yes. 2.5 " down pipe with 2.5" straight exhaust
as for the ecu the tune shop installed and handles the tunes/ dyno whenever i bring it in. im building it there dyno / tuning it .
T04E External Wastegate Turbocharger:

• Oil Cooled
• Journal Bearings
• 5-Bolt Downpipe Outlet Exhaust (Turbo Manifold) Flange:Standard T3/ T4 4-BoltExhaust (Downpipe) Flange:Standard T3 5-BoltIntake Inlet/ Outlet:3.00"/ 2.00"
  • Compressor:Trim:55A/R:0.5Inducer/ Exducer (mm):50.50 / 76.00
  • Turbine:Trim:73A/R:0.63Inducer:65.50 / 55.90

slipknotko

oh and sorry the fuel pump is walbro 255

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ok. From what I can see there that's definitely not the wheel configurations of the Garrett/Turbonetics/BW/Precision families. Those are pretty far off of the normal sizes associated with those exducer measurements. (Could be CX Racing, Godspeed, "Unknown")
From those measurements I can safely say that it will not make 500hp to the wheels. Maybe to the crankshaft if enough boost pressure is used, but definitely not to the wheels, no matter what you do.

So, you're using 3" intercooler piping, with a 2.5" downpipe and exhaust system? Hmmm. Well, the 3" intercooler piping isn't going to hurt you, but it really won't help either, so if you already have it, than fine, just don't expect it to assist you in your goal.

Do you know what actual hardware/software that you're tuner is actually going to tune with?. I understand that they are the ones manipulating the software, but you also need to know the brand and type of ECU you're using. Hondata, Megasquirt, Crome (Moates Demon), AEM, etc. Without that, we also won't know whether or not the fuel and ignition tables are robust enough to support what you need.

On the Walboro 255, you can make 500whp, but only on actual Race fuel or Meth/water injection mixed with 93 octane. Other than that, you have to change that out. But won't assist you with 550cc Rochester/Lucas sized injectors. You must upgrade.

slipknotko

Thanks for that so if I'm not going to be able to make that much is there a point in spending more on things like titanium springs and retainers . Oil coolers . Should I have a new down pipe made that is 3" the turbo outlet is only 2 I think

slipknotko

It's an 1800$ ecu fully customizable I know that much

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. you have other things to worry about before that. Get the right turbocharger, fuel pump and injectors. The springs and retainers will help, but need to come last. You don't even have the basics to get to that level much less worrying about what rpm you're going to make it at with aftermrket springs and retainers. For a street car like this, an oil cooler isn't needed until you're going onto the circuit.

The outlet is 2.5" generally, and that's only at the turbine flange. you can easily have flared to 3" if you get the right downpipe from the right company or have one made. Most reputable copanies have that option. But, that also tells me you don't know what turbo you have or what company. It does make a difference.

You need to know more. Spending $1800 on an ECU system means that you need to damn sure know what the hell it is you bought! .. Start investigating what you purchased, because no ECU can help make 500whp if you don't have the rest of the hardware to support it.

Geis

Berst info you could possibly get right there ^

I would like to add that as far as I know, steel springs and retainers are fine up to a pretty high hp, and are more robust than they are given credit for, I dunno, just a thought.

slipknotko

So i have more information it's a Garrett 3071r 3" custom intercooled tubing and intake tubing skunk 2 intake manifold and throttle body 74mm .h22a head with skunk2 stock sized springs retainers valves guides etc. F23 block with stock shaft forged Pistons and rods with bearings . 1000 cc injectors . will this engine be able to handle 20 psi boost

2kdrift

curious which chassis are you using for this build?

PS stop talking PSI..... forget it exists, state a HP goal and leave "PSI" out of the equation its completely useless

slipknotko

It's a 99 Honda Accord chassis and I would like to see 400 whp

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, the psi is really irrelevant, but I see what you mean. The measurements that you presented doesn't seem to match either version of the GT3071Rs that are used. (I mean, they aren't even close to the actual measurements).

What you're showing is a journal bearing hybrid of some sort, using a 65mm exhaust wheel in a "J" 11-blade profile, using some 46 trim compressor wheel with a 76mm exducer. You might make 400whp, but not by 20psi on any kind of fuel other than high-knock resistant fuel.
Anyway you can show a source of origin for this turbocharger you have? It's definitely not a GT3071R, that's for sure.

*EDIT* Never mind, I think I found it, unfortunately....If someone indeed told you what they gave you is a GT3071R, you were duped. I hope it's really not a "Speed Daddy" turbo.

T04E T3 T4 63 A R 57 Trim Turbo turbocharger Compressor 400 HP Boost Stage III | eBay

slipknotko

That was from the old turbo

slipknotko

Just read the most recent message an ignore origanel post thanks

2kdrift

yup thats what came up for me as well when i googled his description, some of these are even labeled as "GT" turbos on ebay, too many fakes out there these days. I do ALOT of ebay shopping but when it comes to the turbocharger its best to purchase from a reliable vendor

@OP
If you post some pics shodan should be able to tell you if its genuine or not, I honestly wouldnt bother with a EBAY turbo if thats truly what it is

slipknotko

It was an eBay turbo it blew up so j bought a garret

Aradin

Why would you bother making a G23? Save yourself the hassle and get a block that matches the head or vice versa. Keep it simple. If you want reliable horsepower there is literally no reason to use the F23 block since you're going to have to sleeve whatever block you use anyway. You can get a complete, running F20B for about $400 from an importer and save you all the trouble of the frankenstein bullshit. The F23 crank will drop right when paired with the F23 rods and you can bore it to whatever you want to match the H22 head you have once it's sleeved. Again, literally no reason to use the F23 block unless you're trying to cut corners and save a couple bucks. Hell you could even pick up an F20B and sell the head + internals and probably MAKE money while getting the block you need.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It's confusing enough. Just edit your own original with the updated information instead of re-explaing it all .

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

This thread is worse than that NJ train crash...