Hey guys... i recently blew my stock B20B VTEC engine on track....1 of the P3F pistons decided to break while flooring it on the start/finish straight of Sepang F1 Circuit

in case ur curious... video of it is HERE...its a loud one hahha

so... since the bottom end is out... i decided to push forward my plans and build it up...usage will be mainly for daily drive (with spirited driving and cruises) and occasional track days.

would like to get some opinions on the rebuild..

First off, the other parts.
B16A head mildly ported and polished
B16B cams, valve springs etc etc.
Adjustable Cam Pulleys
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Super90 70mm Throttle Body
Custom 4-1 Headers with 2.5" exhaust
B16A ECU with Spoon chip + VAFC
AVS Aluminium Radiator
ARC Thermostat

wats going to be done to the B20B Block
Supertech 85mm 11.5:1 pistons (block rebored to 85mm obviously)
Brian Crower conrods
ACL bearings
Oil Sump baffle
Block Guard with extra water passages drilled into it.
Engine Balancing
New Honda Timing Belt
New gaskets all around

this (along with workmanship charges, oils, filters, etc etc) pretty much already blew my budget...but i'd still like to get some thoughts from others especially from seasoned builders/tuners.

im only concentrating on the bottom end for now since thats all my budget allows and since its out... next up down the road will be hondata and headwork (cams etc), since those 2 are easily accessible. or at least easier to access.

the block is still at the machine shop to be rebored...so its not complete yet. its only the beginning stage.

and if anyone's wondering....I'm in Malaysia where the weather is mostly hot and humid during the day... but most spirited driving and cruising will be done at night when its significantly cooler...we also run RON95 and RON97 fuel...ill be running on RON97 since the 95 is really horrendous.

with the previous stock bottom end setup i managed to get 185hp at the wheels... anyone has any idea how much i'll be putting out with the rebuild (n proper tuning)?


So...thoughts? on anything? relibility? durability? power? things you would change? etc etc

again... main usage will be mainly for daily drive (with spirited driving and cruises) and occasional track days.

Thanks in advance

 

buy new car.... integra should be cool

 

u sure ur in the right thread dood?


no one has thoughts? as in topic related thoughts?

 

i would suggest z10 girdle as its a direct bolt on no machining required and i would opt the b16b cams for something like pro series since your compression will b up there pro2 or tuner 2 just my opinion

 

wats a Z10 girdle? tried googling it and all i see are pix..and cant figure wat they are.

cams are in the planning..most likely Toda C2. but all headwork will be later down the road when finances allow.. as of now im concentrating purely on the bottom end first (since it has to be worked on anyway)

 

So what are you going to tune it with?

 

z10 is a company that makes a good quality block girdle. A block girdle reinforces the bottom of the block against high rpm stresses that the b20 wasn't originally designed for.

my opinion on your setup is that you are pushing it with the 85mm sleeves, I would run something more precise than a spoon ecu with vafc for tuning. But Im sure it isnt easy to find an experienced chrome or neptune tuner around where you live, is hondata the most popular?

 

yeah hondata is the most popular and is wat im targeting next after this build.

i wont exactly be tracking the car yet (or really pushing it n any manner) til i at least get it tuned with proper management. but ill need to run with my currrent ecu setup for awhile before picking up the hondata.

as for block girdles....ill talk to my builder... though i doubt its available in this country...never heard of anyone using it... its mostly just block guards.

 

slight change in setup... going for 11.5 pistons instead of 12.5

edited in 1st post

 

85mm overbore on stock sleeves , its a hit and miss depending on the life of the b20 block. But still very risky

 

hhhmmm.... 85mm on stock sleeves is pretty much a common setup here with B20s... most people get rid of the low compression P3F pistons and have the block bored to 85mm to accomodate the higher compression F20B pistons...PHK pistons are pretty rare here.. they have been surviving pretty well as daily driven cars with occasional track and drag...at lease the ones that i know of

guess i should keep an eye out on the setup...hopefully im lucky :D

 

I would ditch the block guard and go for 84.5mm bore. If you skip right to 85 then the block is a throw away if something happens. I used supertechs 12.8:1 on my 85mm and its been running for years.

 

any reason why u would ditch the block guard??
i initially wanted 84.5....but its taking too long to get the pistons...

 

No point in the block guard at all. It just displaces coolant in a critical area.

Not trying to preach or claim expert here but i've done a lot of b series and never had a block guard or needed one. If the cyl walls crack its not because they needed support there.

 

thought so... i had the same thoughts about it too....but my builder is a believer in block guards especially for B20 builds...but he also drilled extra water passages into them to ensure better cooling...since im not into the mechanical side... i didnt wanna argue with him hahahha

for B20 builds people/mechanics here pretty much believe in them....but only for B20...block guards in B16 and B18s are pretty rare...even my builder doesnt install them in those blocks unless the owner really really insists...

anyway....block guard is done...and so is the rebore..right now just waiting for the parts to be sent out to another machine shop for engine balancing....

 

Everyone has there own opinion on this matter but I believe a block guard for a N/A motor (even b20) is pointless and will hurt more then it helps....

Not trying to diss your build at all man... I love b20 vtec builds (It's what I run)

 

no worries... i actually feel the same way... especially due to vibration...block guards dont really allow much room for vibration....

hopefully the engine balancing will help out with that....

i told myself if this doesnt work out.. im going B18C-R stock hehehehehe

 

i personally think the sleeves are too thin and it might blow again. id say get iron sleeves since youre doing all that

 

arp studs all around or bust... u choose

 

I have no Experience nor own a B20v but i do have a uncle that has worked and experience other b20v's (he builds engines for people here in Kansas)

This is what he told me.

The B20b/z Block have very thin Walls compared to The norm B18c Etc. Etc.
And Being bored out to 85mm is very risky also, at high rpm's you apply heat and stress to the cylinder walls.

Honestly. Best Budget advice i can give you is. Balance you crank, Arp Rod Bolts, Eagle Rods ( pistons maybe to heavy for stock rods) Personally would of kept the Block at 84mm or 84.5mm.

Block Guard isnt very helpful restricts coolant and you will need to keep the block cool.

 

B16A ECU with Spoon chip + VAFC

^ that is your issue right there..
your going to need a reliable tune. Even Crome would be better then that set up.

Why not learn how to tune and then you can be the only one where other people will come to you to tune.