So I just got my car back from the shop again. First time I tried to drive it it was 110 degrees out and the coolant temp hit 245 degrees and blew out the oil pan gasket. That's been replaced. Now I need to figure out how to keep this thing from overheating.
As I'm sure I'll get blasted for it...yes it still has AC (the guy who did the turbo kit went ballistic when I told him I wanted to keep it, also has PS).
My question is what are my options? I know the best idea would be yanking the AC and putting a full size rad in but I'd love to keep the AC if possible. Any ideas guys?

 

It'd probably help if I told you what my setup is...

Built B16 w/Wiseco Pistons, Eagle Rods and OEM crank.
Supertech springs/retainers

Precision 3231E Turbo .63 A/R
Tial BOV & Wastegate w/dump pipe
Custom Log Manifold & Downpipe (Cat-delete)

FMIC
Custom intercooler piping & Oil Lines

OEM size aftermarket radiator (eBay purchase)
OEM thermostat

Competition Clutch Stage 2 Clutch & Pressure Plate

 

I run a built GSR w/ Turbo in AZ. I had to upgrade to a dual core aluminum half size radiator.

http://www.mishimoto.com/honda-civic...nce-92-00.html

I also run a Mishimoto thermostat and fan switch.

http://www.mishimoto.com/honda-civic...mostat-92.html

http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-h...mo-switch.html

I also used a turbo blanket for my turbo.

I run 50/50 coolant mix with Water Wetter using the instructions on the Water Wetter bottle. I don't overheat at all anymore.

 

If he runs an upgraded rad, will it take up too much room for the condenser, since he is still running AC.

 

Don't think so. The dual cores (Like the Del Sol one for example) will fit into the stock location. They'll just have an extra row of passes. The width is the same as a single pass one.

 

I already have a dual core. It isn't cutting it. I'm thinking of putting the mishimoto thermostat and fan switch in and see if that works.

 

Thread copied to the Forced Induction forum.

 

Thanks