I just bought this car last week, so I know very little about it. I know it was purchased as a 96 hatch shell. The previous owner had a 99 SI which was totaled from the rear, so he put the motor/trans/axles/etc in the hatch. Just before selling the car, he lost 5th in the SI trans, so he installed a LS trans.

The car has the 99 SI cluster, and I'm ASSUMING the SI harness (all the plugs go in the cluster atleast). The car had an aftermarket tach (which he tapped off the dizzy instead of the test wire by fender ). When I bought it, the wires to the speed sensor were cut, so I figured that was atleast PART of the problem. I rewired the speed sensor today, made sure the cluster was plugged in correctly, etc, and still nothing. No speedo. No tach.

From what I've read, the 99 SI cluster should be a direct swap for the 96 body INCASE he didn't swap the harness from the SI. (Like I said, he bought it as a shell, doubt harness was in it). The aftermarket tach works fine, and car drives fine, vtec works, etc, so I don't think there is anything majorly wrong.

If I have to run a wire from the blue test wire straight to the cluster to get it to work, I will (but I don't know which wire on the cluster controls the tach signal)...and I'm at a loss for how to fix the speedo issue. Even looked up aftermarket Autometer Speedos...and can't find anyway to install them in a Honda.


Thanks for the help, get ready for 1000th stupid questions. (and yes I did try searching for several hours before I made this thread)

 

HA im gonna be doing that same swap soon. i think its the blue wire but im not 100% sure i might of read that the speedo/tac on that engine wasnt controlled by the dizzy. ill search and get back to you on that.
.

 

i suggest you get a dash harness from a 99-00 si/ex either one will fix your problem. i couldnt find the thread i read a while back. thats what im gonna do when my time comes to swap

 

it goes from the vss to the ecu then to the clutster

 

I did the same swap you did, 00 b16a2 into a 96 civic dx and my speedo and tach wouldnt work either, the prob is most likely the engine harness your using... you need the wiring harness from your old engine which is obd2a so the pins match up with the dash wiring harness. If you use the si harness which is obd2b then your speedo, tach and radiator fan wont work. I had to rig my radiator fan to my ac plug so i could run it off the ac switch lol

 

youll know if you have an obd2b wiring harness if it plugs into your p2t ecu without a conversion harness

 

Ok. I ran a wire from the dizzy to the screw on the gauge cluster for the tach--SUCCESS

I ran a toggle switch to a relay to control the fans--SUCCESS

Filled car up to test fuel gauge--SUCCESS

I checked power/ground at VSS...SUCCESS

I ran the signal wire from VSS to the cluster for speedo--FAIL


reading the above posts...looks like it has to go to ECU and then the odometer. Anyone know what wires/pins on the ECU I need? I tried to read the OBDII port, and got a communication error. I plan on pulling this motor and putting in a built motor sometime NEXT year, I'll do the right harness then. For now, I just want something that works. Having a tach is a great step from above, I can use my GPS for a speedo if I really must. But I would rather not have to go that route.


Also, (keep in mind the harness on this car is HACKED) whenever the key is on....the fuel pump is on, I can hear fuel in the return line, like it's just going in a big ole circle, constantly. Is this normal? On GM cars, it only primes for a second and then stops. I am about to put a second toggle/relay for the fuel pump. A) because it will be a theft cutof B) because I want to upgrade pumps, and don't trust this wiring (not sure if it's fused/etc)

 

if using the si harness, indeed its the blue thats in yer dizzy plug. Supposedly, run it to a c302 connecter in the far left(drivers side) top corner of the engine bay, that or some otherconnection where yer tach wires at...

 

if you dont simply buy a obd2a wiring harness for like 75 bucks your gonna be rockin your gps as a speedometer

 

Is it a known good cluster (speedometer)? It could just be a bad cluster.

 

My buddy gave me the cluster, he said it worked, but the lights don't (which I can live with).

My blue tach wire in corner DID NOT work either, which is reason I went to the dizzy (guy had a aftermarket one hooked up there, I didn't like it, so I removed it and hooked up factory).

Almost everyone has told me to run the car as OBDI. I was planning on doing it after more mods, which is the main reason I'm hesistant on the new harness. Thoughts? I eventually want to run higher compression pistons, and get a set of cams, but that probably won't be for atleast a year.

Near future mods for car include header, typhoon intake manifold, 68mm tb, 75-100 shot. (still on the fence about wet or dry shot, I prefer wet, but am worried about it puddling in the intake manifold and BOOM, read too many horror stories on honda motors, so am debating leaving it at a 75 dry)

As mentioned, I was driving a LS1 motor with a 225 shot, LOVE NITROUS, no very little about Hondas

 

About the speedo.... need od2a wiring harness. In order to goto a obd1 ecu (required for chipping and tuning) all you need is a obd2a/b --> obd1 jumper harness to the ecu then you can run a chipped p28 or chipped p30 for tuning.

 

I saved these links from another post

http://www.xenocron.com/chipped-obd1...ecu-p-129.html

http://www.xenocron.com/ecu-conversi...bd1-p-127.html

for the obdI conversion. I wasn't 100% sure which harness was in car (the 96 harness, or the 99 harness, but the fact my gauges don't work, makes it pretty clear)


Are there any performance gains from the conversion on a STOCK tune/motor? I don't know anyone who tunes, and don't want to pay to have it done with basic bolt ons and again when motor is built.

Are there any downsides? (mainly gas mileage/dependability) I don't have emissions, and the obdII port doesn't work now, so I won't really lose anything there.

 

I ran into a situation like this and I dont remember 100% but it ended up being a fuse. Again not 100% but it might have been a issue with the circit that the alternator er radio runs on. Google your problem & research a lil more. It may be a simple fix. Just to be sure check all ur fuses

 

I checked all the fuses

Wiring diagram says that the cluster uses fuses 30, 25, 15...so I checked those twice


Just ordered my OBDI conversion with a nitrous tune, typhoon intake, and tri-y header. Hoping to have everything up and running by September. I'm moving Thursday, so I should have more time to actually work on this thing soon.

 

I didnt know you had nitrous and all that, Im running a stock jdm p30 (sir2)base map in my car right now with a stock b16 grs cams, i/h/e and it runs good. I dont have people make me basemaps for basic upgrades anymore because the last car with a b16 and custom chip i had ran so rich that it blew 1 1/2 foot long flames out of my exhaust... alot of people once they finally get tuned realize that the chip they order runs worse then the stock b16 map... If its running crazy rich when you get it either order a stock basemap until you get tuned or just spend the 400 n goto a dyno. If its running rich your losing power most likely.

 

wideband oxygen sensor is already sitting on the shelf, and I tend to pull plugs after everybottle to see what the motor is doing.

Guy doing tune, said he will adjust it once if I'm not happy for free, so we SHOULD be ok.