removing p/s pump
98 civic... what is needed to remove the p/s pump... i know i can just remove the belt but is it going to hurt if i do it that way instead of looping the lines with a breather?
If you remove the belt, there will be some restriction from the fluid trying to flow through the pump I believe. It won't hurt anything, it can just be kind of hard to turn at low speeds. Try it, it's not hard to put back on.
If you want to loop the lines, the proper way is with a few fittings. 1- 14mm x 1.5 to -6AN, 1- 16mm x 1.5, 2- -6AN straight hose ends and probably about a foot of hose. If you want to ad a breather, ad the appropriate fittings to do that, along with more hose.
If you want to loop the lines, the proper way is with a few fittings. 1- 14mm x 1.5 to -6AN, 1- 16mm x 1.5, 2- -6AN straight hose ends and probably about a foot of hose. If you want to ad a breather, ad the appropriate fittings to do that, along with more hose.
nice 666th post lol
if you've sourced out the fittings yet, you'll see your gonna end up paying about 40-50$ for the fittings alone. albeit it does give a much cleaner look. if you dont care about how it looks, you can simply cut the original hardlines leaving about 1-2 inches to clamp hoses onto the hardlines and using a Tee fitting at the top with a breather filter
if you've sourced out the fittings yet, you'll see your gonna end up paying about 40-50$ for the fittings alone. albeit it does give a much cleaner look. if you dont care about how it looks, you can simply cut the original hardlines leaving about 1-2 inches to clamp hoses onto the hardlines and using a Tee fitting at the top with a breather filter
Cut it and clamp it. Just taking the belt off is not harmless you run the risk of blowing out the seals in your power steering rack. To do it right you should get a manual rack, there is less resistance when turning in a manual rack vs an unhooked power rack.
Would u happen to know what I need to complete this project correctly from power to manual?
nice 666th post lol
if you've sourced out the fittings yet, you'll see your gonna end up paying about 40-50$ for the fittings alone. albeit it does give a much cleaner look. if you dont care about how it looks, you can simply cut the original hardlines leaving about 1-2 inches to clamp hoses onto the hardlines and using a Tee fitting at the top with a breather filter
if you've sourced out the fittings yet, you'll see your gonna end up paying about 40-50$ for the fittings alone. albeit it does give a much cleaner look. if you dont care about how it looks, you can simply cut the original hardlines leaving about 1-2 inches to clamp hoses onto the hardlines and using a Tee fitting at the top with a breather filter
The fittings cost me probably $35 and I could have done it cheaper using cheaper fittings and such. If you could find the metric fittings that don't have an AN fitting on the other end, it would let you run cheap hardware store fittings instead of AN.
Supposedly the 14x1.5mm fitting is close to a 1/4npt fitting. No idea on the 16x1.5mm fitting. I got sick of trying to find a different way and just ordered the dumb fittings to be done with it. This is the last thing I need to get my car together.
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You really shouldn't just clamp it either.
The 'cleanest' way to do it is install a reservoir and run lines to it from your looped system. You don't want it closed as the fluid will eventually bind in the system. You can also just loop it and attach a breather filter.
The proper way would be to change the whole steering rack and sub-frame.
The 'cleanest' way to do it is install a reservoir and run lines to it from your looped system. You don't want it closed as the fluid will eventually bind in the system. You can also just loop it and attach a breather filter.
The proper way would be to change the whole steering rack and sub-frame.
Nope the proper way would be to removes the rack off the car. Take it apart and gut it out. Weld the neck collar and fill it with grease. At that point you can add a greas fitting and close the other ports. Now you will have a proper de powered manual rack.
Looping the lines may not be the correct way, but it workes great , just be sure to turn wheel far left and then far right to get most of the fluid out before you install new lines. Theirs a post in FAQ section telling what you need and how to do it.
Whats the point in looping the lines if you're going to try to drain all the fluid?
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