So brief history. I got an EM1 and it already had a b20b swap done to it however the speedometer and odometer do not work. Turn the car on the the needle will flip up to 60mph then rest at 18mph. I got a code 17 and replaced the vss, code gone but still does the same thing. I know its not the vss being brand new and the fuse is good.
Ok so I just tested the wires. I dunno if I did it correctly cause im not good with electrical engine wise but I think I did. So there are 3 wires on the harness, black, black&Yellow, and blue &white. For the continuity test I took one lead to the harness and the other to the negative battery terminal. I had continuity on the black&yellow one of .008 and on the black of .008 as well. The black wire did not have any continuity. This is all done with the car off. As for the voltage I did the same way except instead of going to the negative battery terminal I used the positive. On the black wire I got 12.8, on the black&yellow I got 12.78 and on the blue&white I got .8

 

Blk/Yel wire voltage:
Unplug VSS and turn key to ON(II). Measure voltage between the Blk/Yel and Blk wire. Post result.

Blue/Wht wire continuity:
Unplug VSS and cluster. Turn key to OFF. Measure resistance (Ohms) of the Blu/Wht wire between the VSS and cluster connectors. Post result.

 

Im not sure what you mean by resistance of the blue between the vss and cluster connectors. how exactly do I do that?

 

Connect one meter probe to the Blu/Wht wire terminal in the VSS plug and the other meter probe to the same wire terminal in the cluster connector.

 

So I took out the cluster and I dunno if this matters or not but there is a orange harness that is not hooked up to anything it is just behind the cluster off of that main harness hanging there. I looked at the connectors when I unhooked them and is there supposed to be spots that do not have wires in them? I dunno if maybe the guy put them in the wrong location?

The voltage I got from the blk/yel was 12.8 with the car in the on position.
As for the ohms, I had the cluster and vss disconnected and I touched the blk wire and the blu/wht wire and I got nothing. I dunno if I did it correctly or not though because this is my first time doing resistance. I was just curious and tried the continuity while it was all disconnected and I didnt get anything out of any of them.

 

The leads I have are not that long, how do I go from engine bay to inside the car?

 

Can I use wire and just wrap it around the probe or will this throw it off?

 

At 2k on the multimeter when I touch both ends of the blu/wht wire i get a reading of .001

 

The VSS wires seem to be fine. The cluster or speedo is probably bad.

Which cluster plug was disconnected?

 

It was the abs one. The larger ones on the top were both connected and the two smaller ones to the right side that are close together. I did not see a spot on the cluster to even plug in the orange harness into. Maybe on my car it does not have the abs? I have a 2000 civic si with a b20b motor swap done by prior owner.

I was wondering, if I unplug the vss is it normal for the cluster to still stay at 20mph? I thought it would drop to zero like when the car is off. When I turn the car on the speedo goes up to about 60mph then comes to rest at 20mph.

 

I put in a new vss in the beginning of this problem thinking that was the issue. I dunno if I maybe bought the wrong one but it fit the harness which was the reason I thought this issue was going on. Do you think that the cluster is my other option then being the wiring is all good? I found a regular ex cluster on ebay for $60 including shipping. I dont really care about if it says SI on the cluster as long as it works I can always swap out the face bezzels. I just want the speed and odometer to work. Would the odometer and speedo not working be caused by a bad cluster? I find it funny how both are not working. I dont know if they are both using the same area of the cluster.