First off, my name is Stuart I'm 20 and I just bought this car to go to and from work, I've got 6 cars and i'm pretty handy with them, I'm restoring my Camaro right now. If you're interested they are a '79 z28 - '78 WS6 Trans Am - '74 Chevy pick-up - '89 Lifted Wrangler - '03 Rl - 94 Civic (beeter)

Throwing code 9
Details '94 Civic Dx - 1.5 SOHC, 16 valve - manual trans. 195K miles
Parts I put on, Air Filter, Cap, Rotor, NGK plugs, Valve cover gasket
I bought it last week I've put over 1k miles on it already, the light came on once at about 200 miles in and then went out after new air filter (coincidence) but now it's coming on more frequently. When the light is on it seemingly runs rougher (may be in my head). I noticed that cap and rotor looked funny white on the points of the cap and what appeared to be rust on the rotor, also small amount of oil in the cap. So I replaced it all, the new Cap has white on the points and what appears to be some rust forming on the rotor. But It only has about 300 miles on them so that can't be right. I hear some poping out the tail pipe, not noticeable under the hood and not very much but it is popping a little. The light turns on at Idle only If I cruise it stays off.

My research says the CYL censor in the dist. is bad or the entire dist. is bad. But it seems as though the Dist. has been replaced already. I'm not exactly sure if it has been or not, but the only casting number I could find on it is 3y23... but it seems like it's been sand blasted, what I would exxpect from a refurbished one.. and on the CYL censor it says something along the lines of "remanufactured by a certified" somethin. The oil in the cap leads me to believe that if it has been replaced it was likely a while ago, to be old enough to collect oil in the cap.

what do you guys think it is? to me it seems like maybe a coil, or distributor I'm not sure. I bought the car to save money, so I don't wanna just start replacing parts that are still good

 

is the cel is even on? according to ur headline its cel code 9 which is tdc sensor malfunction. my best bet is try reset the ecu by removing the 7.5 amp fuse in the under hood fuse/relay box for bout 10-15 secs that will erase any stored codes in the ecu. plug it back and drive it for a while and see if the light comes back on and if it does pull the dtc's by jumping the two pin connector and the lower part of the dasboard where the ecu is at.

 

The circuit for the CYL sensor inside the distributor is throwing code 9. Start by measuring the resistance of the CYL sensor (distributor connector terminals D & H). It should be 350-700 Ohms.

 

Yes, I'm sure the light is on... And from what I found in my research it's the CYL sensor inside the distributor cap. The light comes on when the car idles turn the car off and back on light goes off. Also my origonal post has been revised to try and include more detail and better grammar, I wasn't sure the post was going to go through so I didn't waste a lot of time writing it

 

thats what i meant the cyp sensor. k when u measure the resistance the d and h terminal b there should 350-700 ohms if there isnt replace the distributor. if ur measurements check k than ck for continuity to body ground on both terminals of the sensor if u got continuity replace the distoributor. if that ck k then ck for continuity b11 and b12 terminals at the ecu it should be 350-700 ohms if not repair the open wires from the sensor to the ecu. if k then ck for continuity to body ground on terminals b15, b13, and b11 if u got continuity than repair short to body in the sensor wires. now if everything still ck ok than replace the ecu and recheck

 

Alright, I got 390 cold and 430 and 435@the ecu once the light turned on, when the light is on it idles a 650, which seems low to me
I also checked the coil it was 2200 ohms. i'm not sure what it's supposed to be

 

sounds like the distrubitor is faulty. replace the distrubitor assembly for like 200 bucks maybe even less than that u can get a brand new one from napa with limetime warranty replacement

 

Check both CYL wires for a short.

 

My brother just had this code on his 90 Integra. Seemed like an issue with the ICM, but ended up being that the wires going into the distributor were cracking and touching each other due to oil contamination. We ended up just replacing the whole distributor.

 

That's what I had thought but everything tested good on it, wouldnt testing resistance at the ECU on the same two wires also be a test for a short? or should I run a seperate test light on it? and there was oil inside the distributor but i'm not sure where it was coming from, I'm not sure but I think that is a rebuilt distributor already. Also I noticed it looks like the spark plug wires are the ones for a 1.6 which are like $15-$20
and not the correct ones that are like 50$ would that make a difference?
is there anything special about the wires for the 1.5?

 

Definitely not. You need to test for continuity to body ground at both wires.

 

how might I do that? does the car need to be in run position? and ur talking with a test light?

 

You need a multimeter. Set it to measure resistance (or continuity if you have that setting). Touch one meter probe to one wire at the ECU and the other to the frame under the dash. What resistance do you measure?

 

alright, I'll check that out today. Thats what I did last time but I dont remember the results