Well I did the Manual tensioner install months ago and got the motor running in its new home.

Drove the car to the gas station -- 6 miles there and back -- heard some whistling, thought it was the exhaust. When i pull in the garage and close it up, shut off the car, pop the hood. I notice a black wire near the driver fender, i look and it has a bunch of wires in it. I knew It was not from me, and i look at my timing belt and its all warn down about a quarter inch. Car has not been moved since.

I have removed the timing belt and now I am trying to fix it.
I ran into 2 snags.
1) I cannot get the new belt back on. I leave the tensioner off, get it router, put the tensioner on and i cant bolt the manual tensioner arm into its place. My next test is going to be just running without that 2bolt bracket pictured here. Dont mind the writing, i thought that washer was messing it up, but actually it keeps the tensioner Straight, i tried without it and it has play on the tensioner if its not there


2) I did not put any stopper in my cams. I forgot to/didn't know how/was 5am whatever. The intake cam has moved, but the exhaust hasn't. I saw the intake cam move, can i just move it back to where it was and try to crank the motor over from the crankshaft? If more than that moved, it will be pretty apparent wont it because the tdc marks are both @ 2oclock right now, I want to turn it (crank) counterclockwise with the t-belt on, and then both TDC marks on the cam should be pointing LEFT. That would mean its on the piston 3 tdc correct?

The other fix is a few days away because I just ordered it from the local dealer today.using some b series timing belt guide, dont really prefer that method, but if i have to...
I have not seen squat about putting a washer on the crank gear besides their claims.


//edit//
Oah yeah, if your going to buy the conversion, the best price I found was ImportRP ( i have ordered ~1k of parts from them, good people to deal with for big orders. H-T Sponsor too I think )
Parts that i got with my kit they list on their site too
13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT
13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER
14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

 

First off, ignore the bracket, it is only there to hold the tensioner in place when you remove the belt, and will probably just be a headache to use.

It sounds to me like your belt worked it's way out on the gears, and was rubbing on the valve cover? Usually 2 things that may cause this to happen. The first and easiest one, is if you did not put the balancer belt gear onto the crankshaft, if you aren't running that belt, you still need that pulley to hold the main timing pulley and belt in line.

The second one is if the tensioner is not sitting on the shaft correctly, or the shaft is bent. Make sure that the tensioner sits on straight, and the hole that sits over the little stud in the block is on there right.

Oh, and try to keep from rotating the cams independently too much, but if one moved a few teeth from tdc, while the others stayed in place, just rotate it slowly into place, and if you feel too much binding, stop. There will be tension from the valve springs, and that is ok.

 

I think it was probably that I did not install the tensioner in the little hole. like you mentioned.
I got it all together, and i've only rotated it maybe a 1/4 tun at the most on the oilpump/crank gear. I wanted to check how far from tdc i was.
That bracket isnt really giving me trouble. I have some play in it so i can loosen it.
___
Heres my timing, i forgot to tdc and put pins in place on everything before i tore off the belt. Im new But confident i have not doesn any Piston to valve hits


My oil pump is at tdc, well really close.

My cam gears are not quite pointing up 1.5-2 teeth off


Is this just as simple as pointing the cam gears straight up and then re-tension the belt, and double check the oil pump is perfectly on tdc?
___
What i noticed.
The timing belt wont be able to go on if the cams are not aligned perfectly.
The tensioner can be in place but it cannot be bolted/springed in place.
Loop around the crank, backside of the t belt over the tensioner, tooth side over the water pump. Then i slid all of it out so it was hanging off the edge of all the pulleys, over the intake cam, and cranked the cam with a wrench a little bit toward the exhaust. It goes on when I do it that way.

how much deflexion from the exhaust cam to the bottom crank gear should the belt have? Right now it's got 1/2in but I have a little room on the adjuster to loosen it.

As far as the Balancer Shaft tensioner, yep that is in place. Now when i go to tighten the 'Adjustment nut' ( the one that holds down both the tensioners ) Do i want to push that one upward, so the arm goes DOWN just to help the belt stay on? or do i just leave it where it rests?
Also I'm not going to run the balance shaft tensioner spring that goes on the arm, because it will just fall off.

Thank you snobordboi for a response that doesn't include throwing a spacer behind the oil pump gear. Im pretty sure the belt was just too tight and maybe the little hole wasn't in place on the tensioner arm. I gotta get this thing RunninG!
Do you really insist that the bracket is useless? If you Insist that I will have a better functioning tensioner, I will not run it but; right now its in place and the spring is in, the bracket is in and the screw that goes through the slider is in also. I have room to adjust the belt too, probably end up loosening it so the belt isnt too tight.

//edit/
I just adjusted the cams so they are both pointing up, the oil pump is pointing to the tdc mark, but i do not see the white mark on the flywheel. its an aftermarket flywheel but it has a divet, not a white mark but anyway i do not see that. I'm so screwed, how can i rotate the engine to get to cyl 1 tdc without hitting valves? i cant because i already moved stuff...
//edit 2, nvm i am extremely fortunate. The crank just moved on its own after a little before i checked the window, its all good now, cams are locked in at TDC, time to install the belt

BASICALLY > When i shut off my engine, it just happened to be really close to piston 1 tdc.

 

I think that I am ditching that bracket. NO idea how i got it all on there before, but i used the old belt that came with my h22a, try to slip it on the same way and no bueno.

I got it on but the exhaust cam isnt lining up like it should, it seems to be just SLIGHTLY off everytime I put the belt on. This is proving difficult

 

After wrestling with it over and over, the half on all the pulleys sort of worked.
Was really hard to get the tensioner in the hole. I did away with that bracket. I hope you and 2point6 are right that it is not needed. I'm running the timing belt spring though.

Putting it all back together. Timing looks awesome in the window on the trans, the lines on the cam are lined up, the UPs are facing ^, the oil pump is also on its TDC mark. Took off the #1 spark plug ( far right ) and i could see the top of it!

Should be g00d to g0!

I did stuff that the manual said too > some honda/yamabond/rtv on the VC around the cam ends, going to oil the special pulley bolt, do it right.
Cranked the motor 3 teeth ccw to get all the tension toward the manual tensioner but I didn't have to hardly push up on it. 1/2in deflection on the tbelt.

Hopefully I did things right this time and my car wont go om nom nom

 

yea what they said

 

Thanks! ...


But snobordboi - Its normal to not add much tension right? because its the h23 tensioner ( which is larger ) but after the new belt stretches a bit I should double check it I suppose.

I got 6 more miles on the motor now!

Having ECT Problem ( code 6 ) ugh... Hoping its wiring and ill just run new wires, but it could be the sensor itself - strange for hmotors to send a bad one though?

 

The tensioner will barely move, so don't worry about that. I usually do the routine of setting tension once or twice, with a full cycle of the engine in between, just so it all sits well. If you want, after running the engine a few minutes, just loosen and re-tighten the tensioner bolt, for extra peace of mind.

I just had to deal with a code 6 myself, which was my wiring, luckily right at the plug, so I wired in a new plug and was golden. I just wish I had found it first, but my current ecu doesn't show the check engine light, so I had to swap computers to track it down. Of course this was after I had pulled my plugs to check them, and all of the timing covers off to check that.

 

Thanks for the tip!
I don't really want to drive the car anymore than I have to until i can get an aftermarket coolant temp gauge. So thats where I am at right now.
I had 2 plugs mixed up > ECT & the Fan switch xD, fan was plugged into the ect sensor and was causing the fan to just stay on the whole time. now it is not throwing codes but the fan is not running, thinking it may be the relay. LUCKILY i just found out the relay for the ac fan is the same !!! my car previously had AC > WOOHOO free relay. ima start popping them when i get to junkyards too just to have them (*weird*) I'm also having cooling problems, seems the prelude wont get up to temp.



new t-stat. going to go get an OEM one soon, probably order one.

//edit, I am still trying to figure out this temp thing.
I idled for about a minute, went for a run of about 2 miles, halfway i stopped to check if the lower rad hose was warm, it wasnt really warm but also not cold. The top one was a little bit warmer but this thing had pressure in the system! tons of pressure. the hoses were quite difficult to squish. I opened the bleeder ( idk why, to try to get air out ? that probably isn't there ) and i had a geyser (well the guy tightened it too much) but yeah, not sure whats going on. dont have a temp gun or a good gauge, just the stock one

 

The temp will generally stay just below halfway, and as long as it doesn't spike high you are fine. If you are in a cold climate and need heat, then you may need to make sure the thermostat doesnt stick open.

To bleed the coolant, you are supposed to bleed the system from the nipple on the thermostat housing while the car warms up. I find that mine gets bubbles out itself pretty well, just make sure the overflow has a decent level of coolant at all times, and the rad is full of course.

As I think more, maybe your engine doesn't have a thermostat in it, so I would check that just for giggles. Also, make sure to run with your heater set on high heat, to make sure and cycle coolant through the heater core as well.

 

Thank you for the tips, I am just fishy about this whole thing, on the cluster it seems so low. Maybe it is just in my head! My old d15 would be in the middle though. Maybe the new one reads differently/broader range?
I did change the t-stat to a Stant for now. ( just asked for 96 usdm h22a vtec, and it fits)

I just figured out that A12 and the single wire sensor under the distributor is the Radiator Fan Control so I may play with that to see if its got continuity. Im also going to unplug it/ground it whatever to get it to run.

I have been bleeding it from the t-stat housing 12mm bolt yep.

 

Also > Why am i getting code 22 - Vtec oil Pressure Sensor ?
This ecu is supposidly JDM and from what I have read, doesn't need an oil pressure sensor
The reason my buddy thinks its jdm is because it has a 120mph limiter on it where as usdm's dont.