took the TB of my IM and and im looking at the fast idle valve ive got it all the way and well how do i tell if its good or not, and can i block off the outer coolant inlets and reroute the coolant to block it off? or will i have to remove it as a whole a block the passages off the TB?

 

ok im looking at it and if i make a tin plate from some of the material i used ot make the EGR block, fit it to the FIV inbetween it and the throttle body bolt the FIV back up with the plate inbetween it and the throttle body put vacume caps on the coolant inlets for the FIV, and route the two lines together it should disable the FIV and coolant still flow along its path right? as well as remove some heat from the throttle body and intake manifold?

 

yeah i did that on my h22a, cant determine if there is any difference but there arent as many coolant lines running around everywhere. :shrugs:

 

man, dont you remeber anything i tell you boy???????
you dont need it, take it off, cut a new gasket, plug the hole, voila lower charge temps...JEEZ!

 

yeh i remember but im trying to fix a problem while im broke so i have spare alumn laying around thought id cut a block plate.a reroute the coolant.

 

dude it should cost you close to no money, find a bolt to screw in the hole to plug it up and use some sealant, reroute coolant lines, cut new gasket, and pOof


[Modified by SOHCArchangel, 9:34 PM 9/30/2002]

 

what does the FIV do anyway?

 

it goes bad and makes the car idle like ****... heats up the TB too..

 

are you positive that losing the FIV doesnt kill any of your power.. i have a surging type r with a ls tb and when i plug the hole it idles down perfect ive tried to tape it but it be sukn too hard. the fiv is the top hole in a ls tb right??? <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CD8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i did that on my h22a, cant determine if there is any difference but there arent as many coolant lines running around everywhere. :shrugs:</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

quote was accident

 

Way to bring back a 6 year old thread Where is that necromancer thread reviver card that I saw on another post?


Any way, Removing the fit valve does not take away power. It really doesn't give you that much either. It's really more of an aesthetics thing to get rid of a few coolant hoses. Unless your drag racing and a tenth of a second actually means something. Dropping the temperature of your throttle body isn't going to do much that your going to see on a daily driver.

If your throttle body has the FITV bolted to the bottom of it than it is the bottom hole inside the throttle body. From all of the Honda/Acura TB's that I have seen that is the way they are all configured.

Don't bother trying to put tape over vacuum holes. Your just going to end up sucking the tape into the engine.

 

well im running a 2nd gen ls tb and there is no fiv bolted to the bottom but there are two coolant lines. and as for my holes the bottom one doesnt do anything and my top hole sucks hard but i think my top one goes to the AICV . is that right?? when i plug that one it idles good..

 

If you plug the top one and it idles properly (750-850 RPM) then your base idle is out of adjustment. Yes the top port is for your IAC port. Do you have a manual that you can follow to set your base idle?

If you don't have a manual here is the 7 step procedure. After ensuring that there are no vacuum leaks.

1 - Warm up the engine, turn off all electrical loads. (lights, stereo, A/C, heater fan...etc. etc.)

2 - Jumper the SCS connector (prevent ECU from messing with spark timing).

3 - Unplug the IACV - idle rpm will drop - try to keep it running if it tries to stall.

4 - Adjust idle with idle air bypass screw to set your base idle to specified rpm. (The idle set screw is the flat head screw on the throttle body, facing the intake tube)

5 - Shut off the engine, plug IACV back in, cool down, RESET ECU.

6 - Start engine without touching gas pedal.

7 - Let it idle to warm up without touching gas pedal. This allows the ECU to learn the behavior of the idle system after it's all cleaned & adjusted.

Then you should be good to go!