Hello all, I put a new cap and rotor on my 98 honda civic ex, I then cranked it and it ran for about 45 seconds and died and now it will only turn over but it will not crank. When I turn it over i can smell gas so I know i am getting fuel, I checked the ignition coil, And the icm And they checked good does anyone have any ideas on what to check next.

 

make sure everything is plugged up right, double check then check again

 

did u make sure u put ur plug wires on right?

 

Yes put the wires back like they were on the old one , But for grins checked the manual and it seems correct

 

I read somewhere that there is a fuse for the ignition coil under dash, Could someone give me an idea of where it might be I have no layout of that panel Thanks

 

I checked the Ignition coil By removing both the pos and neg wires and checking the terminals on the coil I got .6 ohms and checking from the pos terminal to the top of the coil where the spring is I got 12.8 ohms and on the icm i removed the black and yellow wire and got 12v to ground.

 

Ok further tests, Checked the coil with test light pos post on battery to pos terminal on coil the light went out when turning eng over, so from what I understand it means the coil is good. I have checked the fuses and all checked good. I also checked the icm with test light from ground to the neg terminal on coil the light blinks when turning eng over. I would normally just start changing parts but I have been out of work for 4 months so any help would be appreciated.

 

Actual way to check the coil is to remove it and resistance test the two connection terminals (where the wires hook up) and the 3rd terminal (dizz cap connection). The coil might pass one test and fail the other and it still will not start.
Search on H-T and you will find the procedure. Also you can test for voltage going to the ignitor but to test the actual ignitor you need to take it to autozone etc and even then they might tell you its bad when it might be still good.
I would try to find a working dizz to borrow. I had a car start like you described, turned out that the timing skipped a tooth.

 

Do you have bright white spark at the plugs?

Does the fuel pump prime?

CEL codes?

 

I have no fire at the plugs, There is fuel, The only cel is p1106

 

You'll find a diagram that describes the proper resistance tests for the coil in the FAQs sticky. Do those two resistance tests and be sure to read the resistance when the two meter probes are touched together and then subtract that reading from the primary winding resistance of the coil.

 

I did the coil check between a-b it was .6 ohms and between a - secondary terminal I had 12.8 ohms

 

0.60 Ohms? It should be above 0.63 Ohms. Did you subtract background resistance of the meter? Was the temp of the coil cool?

 

Not sure what you mean about subtracting the back ground voltage, I will try to find the info on that. The coil was warm at the time I did the check

 

Ok missed the how to in previous post, I will recheck with coil removed and subtract the resistance of the meter the coil will be cool now and should get a good reading

 

I checked the coil again, The car has set overnight I removed the coil the resistance is .5 pos - neg 9.4 pos to sec post I am going to pick up a coil and install it. I will let you know how it goes thanks for all the help

 

oK thanks for all the help I know now that you cant check the coil until it cools down. I checked it the first time while the eng was hot, So letting it set overnight and rechecking the coil the resistance was low, I also found what looks like a crack in it with a grey powdery substance on it. But anyhow I change the coil and all is running great. Many Thanks