Got a 94 ex....sometimes car wont start....it will click but seems like no spark or power...I'll have to turn ignition a couple times for it to start...sometimes it will start for a few seconds then die....but it will start right back up if I try it again

 

if it starts right up, it's probably the ignition switch, I think there was even a recall,

 

the official recall is for 97-2000 but most of these switches have been the same design for decades. The exact same thing happens on third generation accords as on a 2000 civic, the switches are nearly interchangeable, whats happenning to you is exactly what the recalled cars are doing

 

I think you have your answer to your issue. For the record, Alternator or battery. A simple test is to disconnect the negative on the battery while the car is running, if it dies it is a bad alternator if it is good the car will keep running and it will be something else. As I said I think the others gave you the answer to your issue.

 

Avoid this test as it has potential to damage the electrical system.

 

whatever you do don't do this, the alternator voltage will spike, and you'll fry **** all over the car, the battery MUST be connected with the alternator turning, if the car starts up after you turn the key back on, obviously the battery didn't recharge itself in those couple of seconds

 

im thinking it could be a fuses under your steering wheel..

 

A multimeter is $3-6 at harbor freight.

 

strategy is right.
buy a multimeter from harbor freight. check the voltage your battery is putting out. should be between 12-13 volts (car not on).

start the motor and turn on ur ac, headlights, radio, etc etc and check voltage at the battery again. the alternator should be working and voltage should be above 14 volts (the voltage might drop when you turn everything on but should climb back up to 14).
this really beats taking the alternator off to get it tested.

remember, if either of these two components isn't good, the other will suffer.

 

oh and just to let you know, i had this EXACT problem on my 93 ex. thought it was a starter problem and replaced the starter contact points, didnt help. then i thought it was my gauge of wiring (relocated battery to the trunk), didnt help. got the battery tested, tested ok and was recharged. took off the alternator and had it tested, tested good BUT! i was told the internal voltage regulator could be shot and could not keep up with load. tried the above test and it proved that the alternator would not work under load. replaced, voltage test shows good, and i have never had the same problem.

 

MAIN RELAY needs replaced or resodered. do u hear the fuel pump prime every time u turn the key?

 

starter would not "click" if it was a main relay problem.

 

The main relay has absolutely NOTHING to do with the starter. Is this a no-crank or a crank but no-start problem?

 

sorry for the misunderstanding but this thread is hard to comprehend what the problem is. when it dies and u start it up again does it continue to run or just die again?

 

he's saying it won't start up until he turns the key a couple of times, when it shuts off you can start it right back up, it's the key switch, they've had this problem for decades, the switches are nearly identical inside and outside, the internal electrical contacts aren't heavy enough and burn over time, this started happening in the early prelude switches, so for some reason they copied that design to all the other cars. It's an easy fix, the switch comes off the back of the mechanical key part with a couple of screws,or small bolts, you unplug it, plug in the new one and reattach it, to make it easier make sure the key switch you get is in the position it's in while the column is locked, and leave the column locked before removing the old one. this is a very easy fix, takes about 30 minutes if you are handy, I got the last one I replaced from Nappa, and it was in a Honda plastic bag in their box lol, I've replaced dozens of these for people, it's a very common issue, Honda should have recalled plenty more switches, but they got away with just those years

 

Ok here is a few simple tests you can do is the battery dead the next day after driving it do you have to charge it the next day if so then it could be one of two things. The battery is shot or the altonator has a bad diode and its back feeding the voltage causing the battery to drain. to test the battery charge it then unpluge the pos for the night if you come out in the am and hook the pos post back up and the car still has probe starting hook a charger up and start it if it starts right up its the battery

check the altonator when the car is running see if its getting 14-14.2 volts with car running take and turn on high beams heater wipers radio if the voltage drops then the regulator is working but it should be right around 14-14.2 most hondas with stock alts charge depending on the yr and if its controlled by the ecu or not but id the voltage is 13.8 if its is shot that with eveything off just car running with a load on the alt voltage will drop amprage will clime.

Take a look at the starter with a test light have some one turn the key on and off and find the ignition wire disconect it take and run a wire from your ignition post on the starter where you just took the wire off and touch it to a buddy of yours battery

Make sure its the pos red post if ya dont know what the pos is if it still dose it then its the solenoid if it turns over slow doing this put a charger on your battery and touch the pos of your buddys battery with that same wire.

If it starts up then you know its your battery just make sure if your trying to start the car to leave the ignition on and wrap some tape around the wire you pulled of the starter so it dont arc.

Then try to turn the key to see if its the ignition switch that unpluged wire you have taped from the starter hook up a digital volt meter on dc volts turn the key to start the car it should read battery voltage if it dose the Ignition switch is fine. Just some info for ya good luck.

 

i have this problem as well,

the cause was confirmed to be the ignition switch why the hell is everyone still thinking its a battery/alt problem?

for me, symptoms of this problem include

is some situations, when i turn the key to "run" (position before cranking) and the dash indicator lamps will not come on, i have to jiggle the key in the ignition to make it come on

rare times i'll crank the car, it'll fire right up, and a second later it will shut off along with the dash indicator lamps

 

yes, if it was a bad battery it wouldn't just crank right back up when you turned it to start the second time, obviously it's not an alternator issue as the battery is charged to start it up sometimes. check the switch, they should have replaced every dam switch going as far back as they could go, they are all the same shitty design. another issue is a lot of the earlier cars don't have relays for heavy current items such as the heater blower, all that current goes through the switch, the switches build up heat inside, this accelerates the deterioration of the switch, I've personally had them go up in smoke while driving.

 

Mine was ign switch...Not the lock cyl but the wiring behind it.

 

Check connection at fuse box under dash.

 

When I go to turn it on.....all the lights in the cluster turns on how its supposed to but....just seems like there's no power going to start it up....therefore when it does that...I turn the Ignition a few times and it starts right up.......so u guys still think its the ignition switch

 

switch

 

wow my head hurts, hope I dont buy a car that you have worked on.

 

I recently had this issue as the car would click, click, click but never turn over. I never checked the battery but it was like 5 years old if not 6. I took it to Pep Boys for free test and it passed. Well I asked for the battery and it was HOT. A battery can be hot but this was to hot to hold. I replaced it and the car turns over with out a hitch. How old is the battery?

 

Not sure....but the previous owner had a subwoofer system in the car before I bought it.....so I should probably replace it for the easiest way