Ok so I just picked up a 1995 Civic LX, not running. Compression tested:

#1-180
#2-160
#3-180
#4-180

Then I go to crank it (have cranked it before, no problems except for it not starting) and it suddenly sounds like a piston hits a valve, stops with a CLACK. So of course now I'm freaking out that I just f*cked my head, and take the valve cover, spark plugs, and the upper timing cover off.


I turn it over slowly by hand, (no spark plugs in) and coolant (a lot of coolant) comes out #1 cylinder spark plug hole. Then on each subsequent #1 TDC, it sprays coolant out at a pressure enough to hit the raised hood.


Obviously I have a blown headgasket, but I'm nonplussed at the fact that the compression was perfect before? Any thoughts?

 

maybe it was just waiting for that last time to be cranked and it had enough?

 

I have an update to this. I pulled the head off, piston #1 was sparkling clean, they rest were dirty, a sure sign of head gasket failure. I'm having another problem though, this car just won't start.


Things I have done:

Replaced head gasket with d16y8 MLS gasket

Replaced timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley.

Replaced radiator cap

Replaced spark plugs (ngk), dizzy cap, and rotor

Compression check is still the same 180/160/180/180

I've checked timing, its spot on. Cam sprocket marks line up with the top of the head at TDC, TDC line on crank pulley is dead on in the "sights".

I have steady spark at the plugs (orange spark though, so I know its a bit weak...I still think it would run, or at least ACT like it wanted to run, i.e. sputtering, stumbling, etc.)

Fuel pump primes when I turn the key to 'On', CEL comes on then goes off after 2 seconds.

Wires set to firing order 1-3-4-2

WTF can this be?!? I've got spark, timing, and fuel! If the fuel pump primes in the 'On' position, then it can't be the main relay, correct?

 

Bump...I know someone out there knows this...I'm just dead in the water here. I can't for the life of me figure this out. The only thing I can think of is maybe my injectors, they all Ohm within spec though. Does the main relay control the injectors and NOT the fuel pump?

I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the key, so can I safely rule out main relay?

 

Jesus, no one knows whether I can safely rule out main relay if I can hear the fuel pump?? This is a simple goddang question, HT. From this and my other thread with a problem that no one had any input on, I'm starting to think this site is about damm worthless! HONDA-DON'T-KNOW-TECH. jesus f*ck.

 

Do you have any cels?

 

dude get a known good main relay and try it see if it works so you could at least rule that out for good, then get back to us

 

oops.... I just re-read and saw no cels. sorry.

 

I do believe that there is a way to check the main relay if you look in the faqs. Do an advanced search to narrow it down.

 

Here is a link I found on here for checking the main relay. Hope it helps.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/main-relay-clicks-2554010/

If you cant just click on it, copy and paste it.

 

Ok, main relay is good. Now I just checked the coil in the dizzy, primary winding is supposed to be 0.6-0.8 Ohms resistance, it has 0.9 Ohms. Secondary winding is within spec. Would 0.1 Ohm out of spec really make that much of a difference? It doesn't even sound like it *wants* to start, if you know what I mean...

 

Funny you should say that. My eg was running in my garage and all the sudden stopped. It turned out my coil was bad. I was the same as you, like .1 out of tolerance. I put in a new coil and it started right up. Might be worth a try.

 

Did you remove the distributor from the head when you changed the head gasket? Maybe it's installed 180 degrees off so you're getting spark at the wrong time or the ignition timing is too far off to run the car.

 

You cant put the dizzy on 180 off. It has 2 little prongs on the end of it that only go into the head one way.

 

^^^^^THANK YOU!!!!^^^^^^

 

I've never had the distributor out of a D series, so I don't know how those tabs are placed. If those 2 tabs are offset from the center of the shaft then you're right, it can't be done. If they are centered on the shaft and one of them just has a small notch on it like the older preludes then I've seen them forced in backwards a few times.

 

Lol @ dude man completely losing it

 

Haha I know, right? I do have an update though, my boys at Advance let me borrow a new dizzy to put on to see if either the igniter or the coil was the problem. Car started right up, but still would randomly cut off. After swapping JUST the coil, no start. And I believe if the igniter was bad I wouldn't get ANY spark, so that leaves the CAM POSITION SENSOR.

I'm about to go the junkyard and hopefully get that, some headlights for my CRX, and if I'm really lucky/prices are cheap, a front fender and bumper for the Civic LX. If I'm lucky, the gods smile upon me, and the stars line up, they will also be the exact same color, lol.

On a side note, do NOT allow the car to get up to operating temp and pull off a vacuum hose UNLESS YOU ARE SURE IT IS A VACUUM HOSE. Got sprayed with 200+degree coolant, minor burns to my left hand but it missed my face, thank god. LOL

 

WOW. Bet you will never do that again!!!!!!!!

 

Do you know if this car has the original engine? What engine is in it?