Well, lately my motor has been smoking quite a bit. It's been smoking white but i've been burning oil..


Anywho, I was just going hone, re-ring the block and put new bearings in it if i need em. I've thought about doing it with the motor still in the bay, pull the oil pan off and take the head off and inspect everything.


It sounds kind of ghetto but in reality I don't think it is. Anyone ever re-ring and put new bearings in their motor this way? I don't see a point in pulling the motor out if i can get ahold of a mic set and measure my walls.



Yays, Nays?

 

Kinda hard to replace the main bearings with the crank still bolted to the transmission.

 

You need to check the cylinder walls/sleeves and make sure they are still round....or putting new rings in it really doesnt accomplish much.

 

Kinda hard to hone the cylinder walls with the block still in the car.

 

yes it can be done minus the hone. If the block has a lot of miles on it, it doesnt make sense not to hone it or your wasting your time just putting rings in.

 

You guys have never thought about honing the cylinders with stones on a drill? (i'm not trying to be a sarcastic *******, just asking..) I have access to all the mics needed to check the roundness of the cylinders. So figuring out the bore and all that won't be a problem.

Would I run into any other problems?

 

Making the hone 100% square in the hole is the biggest problem you would run into. You could end up tapering towards the top (which is common when this is done) and create an inconsistent cylinder wall.

 

You'll need the mics for measuring the pistons, then a bore gauge for measuring clearance.

I really think you're wisest decision, at the cheapest price is overboring .25 w/ new RS pistons/rings and main/rod/thrust bearings. Valve seals and a head cleaning/valve job would be smart too.
Additionally I would do water/oil pumps, t-belt, tensioner, clutch.
That should eliminate ANY reason to take out the engine for a considerable amount of time.

 

Ahh, forgot to add my motor has about 12,000 miles from a complete rebuild, with h-beams and arias 12:0's that are .5 mm over bored already :/ no more boring until i get the block sleeved.


93egsleeper i forgot about how machine shops bolt the plate to the top of the block when they bore/hone. fuh. i guess it's a gamble i'm going to have to do

 

Arias pistons for all motor? What's the silicon content on those? Do they even make 4340 offerings or just the 2618 alloy?

 

Essentially, everyone here probably doesn't know the full break down of this motor, like i do.

It is sprayed as well so 12k for a rebuild for a motor thats constantly abused and sprayed is a ton of miles.. its held up well.

I believe going with a new set of rings and bearings would probably be the cheapest and quickest idea.. there's nothing ghetto about it, but i'd have it rehoned and respeced to make sure its all within clearance.

 

Serious question: what would the silicon content matter for an all motor setup? i see a difference for a turbo setup or something

 

It doesn't..

 

I disagree. Higher silicon = lower thermal expansion rate, less blow by, longer ring life, less cylinder wall abuse, and prolonged oil life.