Burning Oil (need help)
Ok so i recently got a 00 em1.It burns about a 1/2 quart a week.I did a compression test on it last week cylinder 1-240,2-240,3,215,4-190
I had the valve stem seals replaced the other day and its still losing oil and i have no drips on driveway.
What could this be any help would be greatly appreciated
Sorry guys i just edited this post i have NOOO drips in driveway sorry for the confusion
I had the valve stem seals replaced the other day and its still losing oil and i have no drips on driveway.
What could this be any help would be greatly appreciated
Sorry guys i just edited this post i have NOOO drips in driveway sorry for the confusion
Last edited by izzyaccord; Apr 1, 2011 at 01:05 PM.
I think this problem is because of worn seals and gaskets, causing oil to burning, so check out seals and gaskets to reduce oil consumption.
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Pocket bikes | Street bikes
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Pocket bikes | Street bikes
I agree with these guys. If you decide to clean your motor, make sure you cover the dizzy, alternator, throttle body sensors etc..... Once you find and stop the external oil leaks then you can check and see if you are actually burning the oil and if so how much. It could just be a tired motor... With the last 2 cylinders being low in compression you may have a bad head gasket or possibly bad rings on those 2 cylinders... Stop all the leaks first though.
I have an EM1 as well. Compression tests tell you relatively little about oil consumption because oil control rings and compression rings do different jobs.
These engines leak externally from the camshaft cap and/or distributor seal. My dist seal is leaking pretty bad now and I'm just waiting for a warm day to change out the $2 seal. Camshaft seal is a bit more involved but only takes about 15min to change.
If you still have burning issues after fixing the external leaks with brand new valve stem seals then it's your piston rings....the life of a high revving engine. or, if the shop you had replace your stem seals didn't check for worn valve guides then replacing the seals does relatively no good. Worn valve guides prevent the valve seals from sealing properly. You can try MMO'ing the cylinders to try freeing up the oil control rings, but sometimes they're just too far gone and are stuck in the lands. MMO'ing helped for me though.
These engines leak externally from the camshaft cap and/or distributor seal. My dist seal is leaking pretty bad now and I'm just waiting for a warm day to change out the $2 seal. Camshaft seal is a bit more involved but only takes about 15min to change.
If you still have burning issues after fixing the external leaks with brand new valve stem seals then it's your piston rings....the life of a high revving engine. or, if the shop you had replace your stem seals didn't check for worn valve guides then replacing the seals does relatively no good. Worn valve guides prevent the valve seals from sealing properly. You can try MMO'ing the cylinders to try freeing up the oil control rings, but sometimes they're just too far gone and are stuck in the lands. MMO'ing helped for me though.
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Do the compression test again. In the cylinders that were low, put a little bit of heavy weight oil in the cylinder and retest. If the rings are causing the low compression, it might have better compression with the oil in the cylinder, because it will help seal. It's a good backyard method for testing rings.
just edited the post i have noo drips in driveway guys sorry
ok ill try and get to the dealer this weekend and replace the cam seal and vtec solenoid gaskets and go from there and i appreciate your input guys
im not losing any coolant whatsover
no overheating the car runs perfect
ok ill try and get to the dealer this weekend and replace the cam seal and vtec solenoid gaskets and go from there and i appreciate your input guys
im not losing any coolant whatsover
no overheating the car runs perfect
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