Ok, so...

Setup:
B18C1 stock internals
ARP head studs
block guard
Garrett t3/to4E .60 trim .67a/r
**badly-cracked peakboost ramhorn mani (being replaced soon)
1000cc precisions
350hp precision FMIC
obd1 p28 on Crome
walbro 255
Tial 38 mm
HKS ssq bov
Cometic head gasket (slightly thicker than OEM)

**I am replacing my current manifold with a go-autoworks mini-ram manifold. I will be buying another downpipe for it as well since the setup will sit completely differently in the engine bay. I have 2 separate instances of what I will do with the car depending on the answer(s) I get to my question(s). My questions are below the following compression test results.

Dry (2x, averaged):
175, 165, 160, 155

Wet (2x, averaged):
210, 205, 210, 207.5

Well, the car runs very well given the manifold issues, but...

...Questions:
1) Why do my dry tests return strange deviations between cyl #1-4 while the wet test numbers are relatively consistent? Possible head issues?

2) Changing manifold styles will require a re-tune. With that said, there's about $300-400 that I will need to spend after the setup is changed. In order to avoid pointlessly spending $300-400 for a re-tune, I need to know: Are my test #'s safe enough to proceed with setup changes + $300-400 re-tune, or do my numbers suggest that, even after a new setup and re-tune, my engine will blow up soon? (Even if assuming the re-tune will be flawless).

Basically, I want to avoid spending money for a tune if my car is about to blow up.

Thanks for any advice/input.

 

By wet do you mean adding small amount of oil to comb. Chamber to see if rings are goin out. Dry? Results seems low 225 sounds like a good number across them board..

 

Yes.

Hmm. I thought 155 was a bit low, but I also thought 175 was kind of normal, especially considering I have a thick *** Cometic head gasket. I probably should have mentioned that in my first post.

Any other thoughts?

 

dry and cold does nothing
warm the car up to operating temp and do it again, while holding the throttle wideopen.


if it makes a difference when you put some oil in the cyls then you have a problem.

 

I think you misinterpreted what I meant. That is how I conducted all 4 of my tests. 2 dry tests, and 2 wet tests(with oil). All 4 tests were conducted at OT with wot.

I would think that adding any liquid to the combustion chamber would increase compression for those tests, right?

However, during the tests performed with oil, the amount of oil in each cyl was the same, yet the numbers were more consistent than the numbers from the tests performed without oil. This is partly why I am consulting H-T, to see if anybody has an explanation as to why my wet test #'s are consistent and my dry test #'s are not.

 

all injectors are unplugged and all spark plugs are out when doing this right?

nothing seems too out of the ordinary, if something were wrong like cracked ringland you here the difference with it running and numbers would be down around +/- 120.

 

Just unplug the dizzy and remove the plugs... The injectors will be disabled.

Don't worry to much about how high or low the numbers are. Its more important that there all close to one another.

 

you have some degree of ring wear. pretty common in most the usdm gsr engines. mileage is getting up there. regardless of if you turbo it or not a jdm engine or rebuild is in your future sooner or later.

my vote? stay on track with the turbo and address this when you need to. most the time you'll frag an exhaust valve from excessive oil consumption

 

numbers look good. Only have to worrie when you got a number that is way off. if you had 60 170 90 175 i would be worried.

 

 

My thought are that oil would aid in raising comp. Of more worn rings but rings in better condition would not yield much higher numbers cus they wouldnt need as much help raising comp.

Now to answer the real question i personally wouldn't want to invest more money, time, boost? I would concentrate more on getting engine up to par first then have at it... rings bearings thrust washers valve seals dont cost as much as another used gsr with who knows what! Either way goodluck sounds like a nice ride btw!

 

Yea it definitely sounds like ring issues if the numbers jumped that much during the wet test.

 

X2

 

X3

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/14...results-2.html
Similar issues one posts states helms states 240 across board (dry) is brand new so a rebuild alone would not only give you added life and reliability but prob. Gain power also...

 

worn rings, no reason to continue the bickering, my LS tested 180, 165, 180, 185, worn rings, maybe a bad valve seat, still within spec but not ideal for making power obviously.