just odered a diy chipping kit install for my p28 off

http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcar...chip-p-59.html

De-soldered, and soldered everything into my p28. I did not put in the datalog 4 pin header yet figured I already have a good basemap for my setup so far, I was sent an

extra tan resistor with a black line right across in the center. Then I used the multi color resistor for my p28 chip. I used the wire that i cut off the multi colored tan resistor onto

j1. I went to go plug in the ECU and the car started idling perfect for about 2-3 minutes. After 3 minutes, out of nowhere it begins idling at about 3.3k non stop, and then after about 5 minutes of high idling it drops down to 3k, and just keep idling that high.

Should I switch out the wire and replace it with the tan resistor with the black single colored circle around it for j1, and add the datalog 4 pin header ?

Help.

 

You don't need a resistor for j1 a wire off of a resistor works fine. And the 4 pin datalogging header has nothing to do with your problem.

Is there any CEL?

 

Well im throwing a cel but I converted to obd1. I have a 97 EK hatch went from obd2a to obd1. Now it's beginning to frustrate me because I can't check CEL codes.

Also Im not running an evap solenoid, or any of that emissions stuff so I know im definitely throwing CEL codes.

Im gonna go drive the car and see how it drives

 

Don't drive the car. If you have a solid CEL and not able to jump the ecu for a code then you have a faulty solder joint somewhere in your ecu.

 

what do you mean, like its not making a complete connection in the solder joint, but everything looks so right. also should i check for the CEL when the car is on, or when I switch the keys on ?

 

As in there are cracks in it or residue. Enough to where a solder joint is not making contact.

Turn the key to the on position, if your soldering is good then the CEL should turn off. If it doesn't then you need to run through all your solder joints again or which one looks the most retarded.

 

okay. sounds good, just as long as i didnt fry my ecu. lolol.

 

Next time check out Xenocron.com for cheaper rates.

 

fixed the issue. went through every solder joint that i soldered, the car ***** 1st to 3rd. For some reason vtec snaps at 5.7k, but it seems like it pulls even harder at that with the gsr cams in the b16.

 

What are you running for a basemap? I seriously suggest getting your car tuned before you do any damage. I wouldn't be banging through the gears and revving to 6-7k without any sort of engine management system monitoring. Be it with a wideband O2 & gauge or via datalogging with a laptop.

 

b16a2 rebuilt
head redone, resurfaced, re-polished
gsr cams
p30 Si-R pistons

I'm going to get a wideband soon.

I spoke to one of the guys from Phearable and he told me that Vtec was set at the best engagement point for my setup.

 

5700 is probably pretty close to optimal for your Vtec, you're likely still making pretty decent airflow before it kicks in on those GSR cams. But I can almost bet you're dangerously close to detonation if you haven't gotten some decent AFR's down yet. Timing probably isn't too far off if you're on stock P30 maps, but you've got more air with the same fuel, no bueno.

 

thats what i was thinking. Im going to get a wideband and after, should i get some bigger injectors dsm 440cc, and walbro fuel pump then get it retuned ?

 

You don't need 440cc Injectors for your setup. Stock is fine.

 

Okay, just thought the fact that if I was running lean, i wanted to upgrade the injectors a bit. But ill see what happens when I get a wideband.

 

Glad to see you got it figured out!

 

That's not how you solve a lean issue. Stock 240cc's are plenty for your setup. You need a tune.

 

But i told phearable.net to give me the best settings for my setup, and im pretty sure they would know what to tune on that map so wouldn't i be safe to run on this ROM ?

 

How do you know that you are running lean/rich if you don't have a wideband O2. Check your spark plugs and see if they are white or black.

Another thing is that base maps are not 100% every time. Every engine & setup is different from the next. Kind of why they are called "base"maps. They are a basis from which to start your tuning. If you are running lean you should contact Phearable and go over your CEL and lean issues?

As I recall the OBD1 ECU's are not looking for EGR or EVAP signals so they probably aren't the issue causing the CEL.

 

Forgot to post down that the CEL light is gone after I chipped the p28. It's running normal now, I just need to get a wideband and see what my A/F ratio is.

 

You're confusing me now, so when you had them to make you the basemap which injectors did you tell them that you are running?

 

stock b16 injectors.