My setup is:
D16z6
ARP Headstuds
Eagle Rods
9.36:1 Compression with JE Pistons
450cc DSM Injectors
Turbonetics .50 trim
Turbonetics Wastegate 7spi spring
AEM UEGO @ D14


The map i am running is a P28 with timing retarded 1.5* per psi and 150% n/a fuel levels when boosting.


The problem i am having is when i change injector size from 240cc to 450cc my idle goes way lean and when i drive the car to see if the A/F Ratio comes into range it stays lean and occasionally breaks up/cuts out. If i lower the injector size to 300cc it idles lean but stays a bit on the rich side under load and in boost. Almost forgot when i leave it at 240cc for injector size it idles at 1200rpm and runs crazy rich all the time but bounces between 12:1 and 17:1 A/F ratio at idle.

I have tried to add fuel to the map but it still idles lean. I know my wideband and senor are in good condition. My injectors were cleaned and tested by injector rehab after i picked them up.

 

Did you change the injector voltage compensation table to your injectors? Its very rare that a car will run perfect from just changing the size injector, you need to start adding fuel to the overall fuel trim, get it in the ball park before you start to play with the map itself.

 

Yes i changed the compensation tables.

 

you really need to take the car to someone who knows hondata and have them tune it.
there is a lot more to it then just changing injector size and adjusting timing retard and fuel enrichment for boost.

 

As much as i would love to the only tuner i trust wants $550 for a tune and that seems a bit much for a 7psi tune that is the most basic setup for single cam people.

And honestly its either get a decent basemap and drive the car out of boost until i can find time to get to a good tuner or put the stock p28 back in and just run it pig rich without boost.

 

$550 is cheap for a good tune. $550 wouldnt even cover 4 hours of dyno time with me.

 

Im not saying its a bad price but im running a built engine and only want a 7 psi tune for daily driving. I personally do not want to spend $550 on a tune for 200hp that i could easily get close to myself. I would absolutely take it to the tuner if i was over 12psi and was quite worried about it being 100% accurate.

Between that and i can tune to some extent. I tuned my Haltech'd 88 RX-7 turbo 2 on stock boost and bolt ons and got it very close to what my tuner at the time made with it.

 

what is it with you guys who pay to build a motor then turbo it but cheap out on the tune

 

Im not cheaping out. Trust me i have the money to spend on a tune but i want to spend that for my high boost tune after i get my 1200cc injectors.

If i pay him $550 now for tuning in 3 months when i go for my high boost tune i will have wasted $550. Especially since he will not give a copy of the tune and will not allow it to be copied to Smanager from the ECU

 

You got enough money to re-build the motor again for your "high boost" tune?

 

Just let him figure it out...im done trying to help people on this forum...ignorance is bliss

 

Pretty much, although I do kinda understand where he is coming from. I myself have had so many bad experiences with tuning lately, payed 500+ for a tune, and the car blew up a week later, so at times I feel like I would have rather tryed to tune it myself and save that 500 bucks from a guy who apparently "knew" what he was doing, but obviously not. I take most things with a grain of salt these days.

 

Contact the hondata dealer you bought your system from for a basemap.

Hopefully the dealer has a good map they can provide you with.
I know we give our customers a free basemap with the purchase of their hondata system :-)

 

There is nothing a dealer can do to keep you form downloading the calibration from the ECU with an s300.

 

I sent my dealer an email. Now i kind of regret not buying through phearable.net especially since my chipped p28 for my del sol was awesome and so was my chip for my teg.

 

I know we give basemaps for any ecu or system bought period, i hate shops that cheap out on that to just make another few dollars.

 

At this point i will pay for a basemap as long as it can be edited. Im just not interested in paying for a basemap that i cant edit for my street tune.

 

I dont understand how you plan to street tune the car, but you cant make a basemap. The basemap is the easy part that should take about 2 min.

 

Any hondata .skl file can be edited using the smanager software.

 

bingo!

 

Its not the basemap thats the problem from what i gathered from the reading i have done i have made a basemap. What i am trying to say is i need help with my map for my light load and idle. Sorry for my poor choice of words.

I have the car running at decent A/F ratios but only under load. My no load and light load maps suck. Im thinking i have a bad injector or something along those lines.

 

shame on u ppl y dont yall help the kid...

check three things first

1.make sure ur pump is suppling the sufficient fuel delivery (no blocked lines)
2.check ur fuel pressure regulator ..ensure its not dropping pressure during boost..(engage launch control very low just enough to build 2-3 psi of boost n let some-one look at it from the engine bay n see if the psi drops )
3.check to ensure the voltage to the fuel pump is enough..if its too low ur not gonna get fuel

i never tuned a d16z but just ensure the stock base map u choose has the same stroke n bore (a b16 would b my closest guess)...adjust your injector size and add n subtract fuel where needed...is that simple.for 7psi n dont need to do much with the timing prob -4* max at the top on 91oct fuel....its not that hard..EYES ON YOUR KNOCK SENSOR !!