arp head studs wont go all the way down-93 civic b18b1
i bought a set of used arp head bolts for b18a/b1 from a member off here
went to go install them today to realize that they wont go all the way down
i torqued them into the block at around 8 pounds to make sure they were all even, and i chased my threads into the block.. went to put the head on and the bolts sat to high.
so i a wrenched on the nuts the whole stud moved..
idk what to do at this point, 2 studs went all the way down, but i think 1 of them stripped out cause i heard a loud *** pop and now it doesnt tighten.
should i just junk my block and get another?
went to go install them today to realize that they wont go all the way down
i torqued them into the block at around 8 pounds to make sure they were all even, and i chased my threads into the block.. went to put the head on and the bolts sat to high.
so i a wrenched on the nuts the whole stud moved..
idk what to do at this point, 2 studs went all the way down, but i think 1 of them stripped out cause i heard a loud *** pop and now it doesnt tighten.
should i just junk my block and get another?
you did not give much information on the motor. You bought b18 arps but who knows you could be putting it on a gsr..not enough info.
And the ARPs are not supposed to be torqued into the head FYI. They are supposed to be snug but not tight. The puspose of them is to pull the head to the block and this is accomplished better with a snug fit rather than a tight one. You obviously got screwed or something....have to tried PM'ing the member
And the ARPs are not supposed to be torqued into the head FYI. They are supposed to be snug but not tight. The puspose of them is to pull the head to the block and this is accomplished better with a snug fit rather than a tight one. You obviously got screwed or something....have to tried PM'ing the member
That is why I wouldn't buy used bolts or new without packaging. I had a deal lined up to buy some "new" ARP rod bolts but later found out that they weren't in the package. I decided to pay a little more to get "brand new" in packaging just to be on the safe side. You never know what exactly you are getting or what has been done to the hardware.
you did not give much information on the motor. You bought b18 arps but who knows you could be putting it on a gsr..not enough info.
And the ARPs are not supposed to be torqued into the head FYI. They are supposed to be snug but not tight. The puspose of them is to pull the head to the block and this is accomplished better with a snug fit rather than a tight one. You obviously got screwed or something....have to tried PM'ing the member
And the ARPs are not supposed to be torqued into the head FYI. They are supposed to be snug but not tight. The puspose of them is to pull the head to the block and this is accomplished better with a snug fit rather than a tight one. You obviously got screwed or something....have to tried PM'ing the member
what i did was, with the head off the block, hand screwed the arp studs into the block.. then i set the head on.. went to put the nuts on the studs and realize i had to much length on them so i decided to try and tight them down into the block.. i had about half and inch of space still.. my cams would not have gone back in..
well the orginal issue is dealt with.. i took them out and reinstalled brand new bolts that i purchased from napa for 1.35 a bolt..havent finished the install since i had to go to work.. so i dont know if these cheapy bolts will hold.. its my DD and im broker than all hell. so thats all i could get
So you took out arp's and used napa bolts. This sounds like something to talk to them about:
ARP CONTACT INFORMATION
1863 Eastman Avenue
Ventura, CA 93003
Hours: 7:30am - 4:30 pm PST
Will Call Hours: 8:00am - 4:00pm PST
2010 Holiday Schedule
Christmas: Closed 12/24 through 12/27
New Year's: Closed 12/31 through 1/3
Order Desk & Technical Support:
Toll-free 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200
fax: 805.650.0742, info@arpfasteners.com
Sales & Marketing: 805.339.2200
European Sales & Information: Nigel Atkinson: nigela@arpfasteners.com
-As far as running napa bolts I would say run the stock ones until you get this figured out.
ARP CONTACT INFORMATION
1863 Eastman Avenue
Ventura, CA 93003
Hours: 7:30am - 4:30 pm PST
Will Call Hours: 8:00am - 4:00pm PST
2010 Holiday Schedule
Christmas: Closed 12/24 through 12/27
New Year's: Closed 12/31 through 1/3
Order Desk & Technical Support:
Toll-free 800.826.3045 or 805.339.2200
fax: 805.650.0742, info@arpfasteners.com
Sales & Marketing: 805.339.2200
European Sales & Information: Nigel Atkinson: nigela@arpfasteners.com
-As far as running napa bolts I would say run the stock ones until you get this figured out.
Sounds like the the original ARPs you got weren't the correct ones. REGARDLESS of what you were told. It wouldn't be the first time that has happened on HT.
I don't think I would risk my only car to $1.35 NAPA hardware.
I don't think I would risk my only car to $1.35 NAPA hardware.
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Info courtesy of MShaffie:
GSR headstud length, kit 208-4303 - 7.250”, 184.15mm
B16 headstud length, kit 208-4601 - 7.100", 180.34mm
B20 with B16 head headstud length, kit 208-4306 - 7.250”, 184.15mm - Identical to GSR kit
measure yours
Last edited by EFPhilly; Feb 14, 2011 at 09:37 AM.
x2
And I would say the same thing. ARP makes great bolts with no problems. You def got the wrong ones:
Info courtesy of MShaffie:
GSR headstud length, kit 208-4303 - 7.250”, 184.15mm
B16 headstud length, kit 208-4601 - 7.100", 180.34mm
B20 with B16 head headstud length, kit 208-4306 - 7.250”, 184.15mm - Identical to GSR kit
measure yours
And I would say the same thing. ARP makes great bolts with no problems. You def got the wrong ones:
Info courtesy of MShaffie:
GSR headstud length, kit 208-4303 - 7.250”, 184.15mm
B16 headstud length, kit 208-4601 - 7.100", 180.34mm
B20 with B16 head headstud length, kit 208-4306 - 7.250”, 184.15mm - Identical to GSR kit
measure yours
they look just like theys ( http://s3.amazonaws.com/client-stora...dsopenbox2.jpg )
what side of the studs is put into the block? the one with the concave, or the shorter thread?
And you don't thread them into the block at all. Hand tighten, when the bold makes contact back it off about an 1/8th of a turn. ARP has excellent tech support. Call them the number was provided above.
wow I was like how the hell could this happen. But I thought he said he torqued it and I thought the only way to torque was the allen side. The other side has a hex doesnt it?
im just gonna order a brand new set from a arp dealer..
is there an arp head stud install/dyi link anyones got? i have the b18b1 motor.
i install them like this, first took the head off.. used brake cleaner in the thread holes on the block and a straw and vaccum to clean it all out.. put the supposed b18b1 arp head studs into the block with the molly lube applied.. [first time i did it i threaded in the side of the bolt that has a shorter thread size... then after put the head on and went to put the nuts on the studs.. my socket wasnt deep enough to get some to go all the way.. but some snugged up quickly.. and has i tried to torque one to 75lbs.. i heard a load pop.. and now it threads is so far to where you cant pull it out... but jus free spins when you try to tighten in.. and loosing it, itll come out..
what happened?
sorry for long post... and if it doesnt make much sense.. im pretty lost here so i need some help
It sounds like you stripped the threads in your block. It's interesting that the bolts even threaded in the first place, they must have been the correct pitch but the wrong diameter. Considering you had to put 75 ft/lbs on them before they broke free I'd guess you're block threads are significantly damaged. Just my guess...
If you buy ARP bolts from ARP it will come with instructions. The instructions are fairly simple. If you still have questions you need to call them. But before you buy another set you need to determine if your block threads are still good. You can try to chase the threads as you suggested, but that may do more harm then good if there isn't much thread left. On top of that you'll need an extension for the tap that you use, the threads are pretty deep into the block. I would suggest taking the block to a machine shop, and see if they can salvage it. What happened is you effectively decreased the surface area on the block threads by stripping them (rounding them over and/or breaking them off) which means they wont be able to sustain the same load as before. So using the correct bolt may damage the block further when you try to torque them in.
Machine shop and prayers... The machine shop may be able to re-thread the block to a slightly larger diameter. In which case you will need a special set of head studs. A machine shop will be able to determine what bolts you need.
If you buy ARP bolts from ARP it will come with instructions. The instructions are fairly simple. If you still have questions you need to call them. But before you buy another set you need to determine if your block threads are still good. You can try to chase the threads as you suggested, but that may do more harm then good if there isn't much thread left. On top of that you'll need an extension for the tap that you use, the threads are pretty deep into the block. I would suggest taking the block to a machine shop, and see if they can salvage it. What happened is you effectively decreased the surface area on the block threads by stripping them (rounding them over and/or breaking them off) which means they wont be able to sustain the same load as before. So using the correct bolt may damage the block further when you try to torque them in.
Machine shop and prayers... The machine shop may be able to re-thread the block to a slightly larger diameter. In which case you will need a special set of head studs. A machine shop will be able to determine what bolts you need.
It sounds like you stripped the threads in your block. It's interesting that the bolts even threaded in the first place, they must have been the correct pitch but the wrong diameter. Considering you had to put 75 ft/lbs on them before they broke free I'd guess you're block threads are significantly damaged. Just my guess...
If you buy ARP bolts from ARP it will come with instructions. The instructions are fairly simple. If you still have questions you need to call them. But before you buy another set you need to determine if your block threads are still good. You can try to chase the threads as you suggested, but that may do more harm then good if there isn't much thread left. On top of that you'll need an extension for the tap that you use, the threads are pretty deep into the block. I would suggest taking the block to a machine shop, and see if they can salvage it. What happened is you effectively decreased the surface area on the block threads by stripping them (rounding them over and/or breaking them off) which means they wont be able to sustain the same load as before. So using the correct bolt may damage the block further when you try to torque them in.
Machine shop and prayers... The machine shop may be able to re-thread the block to a slightly larger diameter. In which case you will need a special set of head studs. A machine shop will be able to determine what bolts you need.
If you buy ARP bolts from ARP it will come with instructions. The instructions are fairly simple. If you still have questions you need to call them. But before you buy another set you need to determine if your block threads are still good. You can try to chase the threads as you suggested, but that may do more harm then good if there isn't much thread left. On top of that you'll need an extension for the tap that you use, the threads are pretty deep into the block. I would suggest taking the block to a machine shop, and see if they can salvage it. What happened is you effectively decreased the surface area on the block threads by stripping them (rounding them over and/or breaking them off) which means they wont be able to sustain the same load as before. So using the correct bolt may damage the block further when you try to torque them in.
Machine shop and prayers... The machine shop may be able to re-thread the block to a slightly larger diameter. In which case you will need a special set of head studs. A machine shop will be able to determine what bolts you need.
Just like he said, you know took your 2 hour project and will most likely have to take to a machine shop unless the threads are bad and you now how to use a tap and die (which Im assuming you dont)
Take you a machine shop and just hope that you have stripped the bolt enough to where the will have to upsize the thread to a larger one to get a bite!
The reason why you stripped them in the first place is easy, not enough thread in the block to hold that amount of pessure, and probably wrong thread pitch as the man above said.
This is a prime example of research before you go out and install something

Good luck man, at least you found your original problem...
i just ran into the same problem wit ha brand new set of head studs from arp if the bolt just turns when you put torque on it dont keep turning that will screw the hole up even more. the thread patter is m11-1.50 go to your local oreilly auto parts and get the helicoil set if you havent already fixed it. the set will run you 51.00 and some change. take whatever stud is out and drill the hole with a 29/64 i do believe afterwards run the tap down into the block make sure all excess metal is out of the hole blow air into the hole due to the block being aluminum its not magnetic after running the threads run a helicoil in make sure its all the way down make sure your stud threads in easily. also when you put arp head studs in one side of the threads are longer than the other and one side has an allen head inside the stud itself if it doesnt they arent arp if they are bolts from arp they are for your motor.
i forgot to add the bolts that came originally are considered torque to yeild which means when you drive the S H I T out it and decide to take them out the bolts arent m11-1.50 anymore they have stretched.
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