This WILL be my daily driver, which is why I'm trying to do this conservatively.
Skip down to relavent parts, here's just to give an idea of my build.
I have a 1995 GSR motor with OBD2 oil pump.
Fully built. (SRP pistons, Eagle rods, Supertech valvetrain, etc)
~9.5:1 compression.
Oil clearances were kept close to factory spec since my goals are not that high (300hp or so), using ACL bearings. Planning to run about 8lbs to achieve this.
AFI stainless ramhorn manifold and 2.5" exhaust, Tial wastegate
Tuning on Hondata S300
Precision 880cc injectors (will get ID1000s eventually)
Precision 350hp intercooler, 2.5" piping and DSM 1g BOV

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About 3 foot long -4 AN braided hose, sourcing the oil from the back of the block from where the oil pressure sender screws in.
Turbonetics T3/T04B (journal bearing). Rebuilding with a new turbine wheel, bearings, center housing and seals.
I've heard some people say -4 is fine as is, some say only -3 is ok.
I've looked for -4 restrictors, but I can only find them in brass. Brass can work harden and break

 

If nothing else, I'm going to make a hard line out of break line. I don't want the stainless line rubbing and wearing on stuff.

 

Function7 makes an oil regulator for -4an. I say run them on all turbos unl;ess otherwise stated by manufacture AKA bullseye turbos. .065 for journal bearing and i think its .025 or .035 for ball bearing

 

What about something that's not $30?

 

The easiest way is to measure the oil pressure between your oil feed line and the turbo. If you are running a -3AN line, then prepare a gauge that can go between the 3-AN female fitting and the turbo male fitting. That way, it just installs and uninstalls in seconds.

Anything between 35-60 PSI I find it a good pressure range for any turbo... I measure the pressure when the oil is hot.

Minor changes, such as different oil viscosity can already affect oil pressure enough to require an oil restrictor or doesn't require one. If you are afraid of starving the turbo, or give it too much oil, just check the oil pressure.


You can put wire protective looming on top of the braided SS line to prevent it from abrasion damage on surrounding things. Or use the nylon braided hoses (ie: Earl's Prolite) if you want good braided strength but without the hassles of braided SS lines.

 

30 dollars to save a 700-1500 dollar turbo, do you really think its not worth 30 bucks? a rebuild is costly my friend, but like tonythetiger says you can also measure pressure with a gauge and maintain the pressures he has given. The oil rings on turbochargers are designed for a maximum of 60spi oil pressure so below that would be optimal. You will see better spool characteristics with proper oil pressure as well, not overloading the bearings with oil

 

check out http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/contact.shtml call them up and they can set you up with a restricter. They have an adjustable one too if you need one.

 

i was told by racing automotive in tampa that journal bearings arent in as much need as a restrictor as ball bearing turbos and ebay turbos... if that helps any.

 

Well, that's a simple general explanation that they are making because they don't want to get too in-depth, but Tony had the right idea.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't most of the Turbonetics turbos have a restrictor built in? I read something along those lines a while back...

 

run all 3an lines and fitting
with a oil restrictor one little debris and your lines plug.................

 

$30 is still 30... I ended up just buying the dang part off eBay.
I was thinking about going -3, but this is just easier.

I have no idea if turbonetics uses a built in restrictor, I figured they just used a regular old Garret center housing.

And the car isn't running yet, I just wanted to know if I should order it or not since once it's running, my truck is GONE! I can't get a definitive answer, so I just ordered it.

 

I am running a -3an with a oem pump and my turbo is pushing oil past the seals.I am not sure yet if the car is making too much oil pressure so I just ordered a mechanical gauge and ball valve to adjust the pressure thats the only way to make sure the turbo is getting exactly what it needs.You have yo figure out how much oil pressure you are making before you can figure out what to do to remedy the problem.

 

new turbonetic s r know to leak too......
make sure drain is -8 to -10

 

I ran a -3an line for 3 years with a function7 oil regulator and it never starved my turbos for oil. that was on an ebay turbo and also on my current garrett turbo. Im not running a -4an line because i had the stainless steel braided hose laying around and fittings and my old -3 line broke when i removed it to rebuild my bottom end. Turbo still in perfect working order and currently has about 20k miles on it. If your running good oil and filter, and keep it clean then debris shouldnt be a problem. magnetic drain plugs are great for this as wel

 

I'm doing a super common setup. I just figured that since so many people do GSR blocks and 57 trim Garret turbos, someone would have some input.

Anyway, I went ahead and ordered the Function 7 regulator. Twenty something dollars shipped off eBay but I have it now.

 

good choice, works well with the garrett journal bearing turbos