* I DID SEARCH AND CAME UP WITH NO ONE WITH THE SAME ISSUE AS ME*


Ok here is the issue, bought this 93 cx hatch shell to put my b-series swap into it, finished the swap and went to try and start the car and when I turn the key on all the cluster lights turn on but do not turn off, and the check engine light is on but super dim and the main relay begins to click rapidly... the car will crank all day long but will not start.

here is what I have done:

Checked all the fuses
New main relay
Cleaned the trans and thermostat grounds and added new grounds to the original ones
New valve cover ground as well as cleaned up the old one


Thanks for any input.

 

hows the fuel pump?

 

don't know, I dont hear it prime but I think its because the main relay is acting funky and the check engine light will not turn off.

 

Turn key to on position and check for voltage at the pump.
When your engine crank, does it crank fast like it have no compression, and if that the case it could be fuel or spark/timing issues.

 

I will check the volts at the fuel pump tomorrow, engine cranks fine and the compresson/ timing are perfect... I unplugged the fuel return line and cranked the car and it was bone dry..

 

RonJ@HT where you at???? hahahah.. you are the honda master!

 

bump

 

Do the test on the left side of this diagram, but skip removing the rear seat and lid. Just jump 5 to 7, turn the key to ON(II), and then listen for whether the fuel pump runs.

If the pump runs, then do the same test, except jump 1 to 7 in the main relay plug. Does the fuel pump run? No need to turn the key to ON(II) for this test.

 

I just did what you said Ron, and yep fuel pump runs when i turn the key to on...

 

That proves the fuel pump is fine. Does it also run when you jump 1 to 7? (1 = Yel/Wht wire)

 

Ill go jump 1 and 7 right now..

 

yep, turns on without the key in when I jump 1 to 7...

 

Okay, you have good voltage from both fuse 31 and 24 to the main relay and the fuel pump works fine. Do you have multimeter?

 

I don't, it got broken and the jerk that broke it never replaced it...

 

At this point, my guess is that either the Black ground wire in the main relay plug is not getting good ground from the thermostat housing or that the Grn/Yel wire in the main relay plug is not getting good ground from the ECU. You need a digital multimeter to do more tests. Harbor Freight Tools sells an adequate digital multimeter for as little as $4 in my area.

 

I added a ground wire to the ground location at the thermostat housing and conected the other end to the negivave on the battery.. I really think its the ecu cause the last owner had a chipped p28 in the car and wanted to keep it so he got a po9 from the junkyard and put it in the car.. Ill hit up Harbor freight tomorrow on my way home from work. Thanks again Ron, you have once again saved my life.

 

Issue solved


It was Poor grounding to the ecu and main relay...I added a ground wire to the ground wires coming out of the main relay and grounded it right on the chassis and I also ran ground wires from the ecu grounds to the chassis and the fuel pump and main relay are working perfectly now and the car starts and runs perfectly.