I will soon be starting my all motor LS up for the first time.. and have a few questions. I'm not trying to eff up a fresh motor..

I already know the proper break in procedure so thats no problem. I'm just concerned about the high compression (b16 pistons, no milled head) and stock ecu for right now.. I have a AEM wideband and B&M fpr, and will be using GSR spec NGK plugs. Will I have any problems here? Detonation, running lean? This is my first build and start up so all help/opinions is helpful

Also.. stock cams will be used in the built head for right now untill I get BC's and cam gears and get it tuned prob in the spring. Think I'll run into any probs running like this during the winter?

 

Pull the valvecover and plugs.Disable the fuel pump. Have someone crank the engine over until you see oil to the head and cams...
Since the (stock b16?) ecu thinks its supplying fuel for a 1.6 liter, you may want to bump up the pressure a little so you dont go lean. MONITOR YOUR WIDEBAND.
You might wanna retard the base timing a couple degrees to help reduce the chance of knock. Once you get some kind of engine management, you will be able to tune for max power.
I really would drive it little as possible until you get a chance to tune it properly...
I like Neptune personally. Good luck!

 

It's a b18b1 bottom end with pr3 b16 pistons and arp rod bolts. Head is P75LS, ported polished BC valve train and Supertech valves.. Will have b18a1 cams for now running off a PR4 ecu.. I planned on bumping fuel pressure a little bit after seeing what the wideband says after its running. I guess my question lies with the timing. Would I just clock the dizzy?? I've heard of it being done but never messed with it.. I"m a noob to this part of in depth motor "tuning" after a fresh build.. Will be running on 93 octane and using Hondata for management once cammed.

 

Oh OK, I misunderstood and thought you were LS/vtec hence the b16 ecu...

Well the main thing to be concerned with is the stock timing maps being programmed for the stock compression.Now your 12:1 so its not gonna be perfect.
Id go ahead and install the Hondata S300 so it will run correctly even before you add the cams..
In the meantime, Id set your distributor base timing a few degrees retarded just to be safe. Dont forget to put the jumper wire in for setting base timing...
Dont forget to keep a close eye on the wideband during initial break-in. And def keep 93 octane in it.

 

Compression will be around 10.8:1ish with pr3's in a LS with LS head.. Getting a package deal of S100 and a tune when the time comes, I by no means plan on beating on this motor until I have it tuned after it is cammed but it will be broken in properly. How do I do the dizzy timing to set it retarded? Yea and I mean running 93 from initial start up as well.

 

lol, I dont know why i keep thinking your ls/vtec...sorry, I dunno where I got 12:1 from...

10.8:1 shouldnt pose any problem I dont think. 93 octane and base timing at 14 degrees and I would think you should be pretty safe, but dont take my word for it. Maybe some others can give their input as well...
Theres a connector you have to jump to set the base timing. Its the same connector you jump to check codes with. Not sure what type of car you have, but its usually by the ecu and its a 2 pin brown connector. Jump this connector and then rotate your distributor and set timing like you would any other car. Stock is 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees, thats why I think 14 should be safe...

 

Lol I figured that's what you thought I was doing. I don't blame you for thinking so thats what everyone is doing, not me though lol

I wasn't thinking the compression ratio was too crazy so it should be okay. I'll have to look more into the dizzy timing. input from others?

 

B&M fpr killed my B20 build. Careful with those things.

 

how so?

 

Just crapped out, my motor went lean and melted the #3 piston. Good times killed a built motor over a $40 part.

 

Not sure what you mean by "crapped out"? Honestly think I should go a head and get a AEM one?

 

I have seen more motors killed by AEM than the B&M regulators. I'm really not sure what you should go with. Its been a while since I worked on a Honda motor. Ask around, but I thought I would just throw in my experience with the B&M.

 

Odd.. AEM though? What's up with them? The worse I've seen from a B&M is improper cutting of the stock FPR which makes it leak or not seat correctly. Now I do understand duds happen out of a batch. I do have the wideband so I'll be able to keep a pretty good eye on it..