built B16 will not start....
motor is timed right,firing order is correct,has fuel and spart,lots of compression.......
all we can get is it to sputter and start to come up to a idle and thats it,ive tried moving the dizzy around to diffrent possitions and everything
any ideas???
this is a b16 a1 with 11.5:1 pistions and a built head.....
all we can get is it to sputter and start to come up to a idle and thats it,ive tried moving the dizzy around to diffrent possitions and everything
any ideas???
this is a b16 a1 with 11.5:1 pistions and a built head.....
stock cams with adjustable gears set at zero right now.....no vacuum leaks anyware,stock ecu,it might be reflashed but im not sure,the only other thing that may be the prob is that it has some dsm injectors in it,i think they are out of a 2g 4g63.......
besides that,it has the normal bolt-ons....
besides that,it has the normal bolt-ons....
You said you have a built head in your original post, what does that consist of? We need to know what you have, besides built head (w/ stock cams) and 11.5:1 pistons to help you out!!!
And for my own knowledge. Were pre k-20 (2002-up) ecu's able to be re-flashed (i.e.-P30,P28, P72, PCT ect.)? Could be a stupid question but I thought it was just newer ecu's that could get reflashed.
And for my own knowledge. Were pre k-20 (2002-up) ecu's able to be re-flashed (i.e.-P30,P28, P72, PCT ect.)? Could be a stupid question but I thought it was just newer ecu's that could get reflashed.
are you sure it has fuel at the injector? have you put a scope on it so you can listen to them click on/off. what ecu are you runnin? the only b16a ecu capable of handling those injectors as far as i know are the pwo's and pr3's. those injectors are low impedance peak and hold, while obd1-2a are high impedance saturate. you could run a resistor box so the obd1 ecu can run them, but that really isnt the right thing to do.
more info please.
more info please.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboxsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said you have a built head in your original post, what does that consist of? We need to know what you have, besides built head (w/ stock cams) and 11.5:1 pistons to help you out!!!
And for my own knowledge. Were pre k-20 (2002-up) ecu's able to be re-flashed (i.e.-P30,P28, P72, PCT ect.)? Could be a stupid question but I thought it was just newer ecu's that could get reflashed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the head has been flow benched with a full race port job....
i dont know about the ecu for sure,i know its a older b16 swap....in a 91 hatch...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it smoking alot when u crank it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure it has fuel at the injector? have you put a scope on it so you can listen to them click on/off. what ecu are you runnin? the only b16a ecu capable of handling those injectors as far as i know are the pwo's and pr3's. those injectors are low impedance peak and hold, while obd1-2a are high impedance saturate. you could run a resistor box so the obd1 ecu can run them, but that really isnt the right thing to do.
more info please.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the car is not mine,this is the first honda ive ever build,im a dub guy my self,but the owner isnt too educated about this stuff....he bought the car with the swap allready done and blew it up so i helped him put it back together......
ill tell ya what tho,if i knew what i know now,i would have built a honda along time ago!!!!!!
And for my own knowledge. Were pre k-20 (2002-up) ecu's able to be re-flashed (i.e.-P30,P28, P72, PCT ect.)? Could be a stupid question but I thought it was just newer ecu's that could get reflashed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the head has been flow benched with a full race port job....
i dont know about the ecu for sure,i know its a older b16 swap....in a 91 hatch...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it smoking alot when u crank it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure it has fuel at the injector? have you put a scope on it so you can listen to them click on/off. what ecu are you runnin? the only b16a ecu capable of handling those injectors as far as i know are the pwo's and pr3's. those injectors are low impedance peak and hold, while obd1-2a are high impedance saturate. you could run a resistor box so the obd1 ecu can run them, but that really isnt the right thing to do.
more info please.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the car is not mine,this is the first honda ive ever build,im a dub guy my self,but the owner isnt too educated about this stuff....he bought the car with the swap allready done and blew it up so i helped him put it back together......
ill tell ya what tho,if i knew what i know now,i would have built a honda along time ago!!!!!!
got it all figures out....
i schrounged up some b18 injectors that looked just like the junk b16 injectors that were in it,i couldnt see any part numbers on them but they looked close enough....LOL
the bigest prob was,that i DID NOT time the motor correctly....i had both gears off by 90 degrees...oops....i did a compression test tho and all cly's were around 230 psi
re timed the motor correctly and it fired right up
got it to idle after about 3 minutes of holding at about 1500 to 2000 rpm and it revs great....only reved it to about 3000 tho,its not mine and didnt want it to be my fault if it broke.lol
gotta fix a coolant leak and then we will drive it,probally tomorow tho....
thanks everybody for tryin to give me a hand

cheers
brett
i schrounged up some b18 injectors that looked just like the junk b16 injectors that were in it,i couldnt see any part numbers on them but they looked close enough....LOL
the bigest prob was,that i DID NOT time the motor correctly....i had both gears off by 90 degrees...oops....i did a compression test tho and all cly's were around 230 psi
re timed the motor correctly and it fired right up
got it to idle after about 3 minutes of holding at about 1500 to 2000 rpm and it revs great....only reved it to about 3000 tho,its not mine and didnt want it to be my fault if it broke.lol
gotta fix a coolant leak and then we will drive it,probally tomorow tho....
thanks everybody for tryin to give me a hand

cheers
brett
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