I'll try to keep this intro short. I'm looking for help. My car is running shitty and I didn't finish my dyno tune.

Setup:
Block: b20b,84.5 cast pistons(new), arp rod bolts(new),ge blockguard, everything else stock.
Head:gsr,itr cams,dual valve springs,ugr valves(new),port&polished.

Extras: t3/4 63 trim turbo (new)
Victor x I'm but will be a skunk2 pro series I'm next week
3 inch exhaust
Tune was on chrome.



Ok so here's what happens I bought the car had it about 2 weeks and it started to loose compression and smoke. So I had it rebuilt at a machine shop. New pistons, bearings, rod bolts, valve job, decked the block and bore to 84.5, plus what ever else they do .

I put the block back together drove it to my tuner. Had no real problems on the way. Never took it past 3,500 rpm. So we get on the dyno and it just sounds crazy. It sounds like it has a miss when your in the car but from outside it sounds like it's ready to blow up. There was flames coming out of the wastegate dump tube. The tuner kept trying to fix& tune the car but after about 1hr he threw in the towel and said once it hit vtec it goes crazy. He could not figure out why. So I asked him if he messed with the dizzy he said no and took it from the middle to full retard I think and I gained 25 hp. Then he took a timing light to the car and the gun showed the I was between the 3 marks and the tdc mark. So he told me it must be off a tooth and to bring it back after I fix it. So I took it home and redid my timing. I think it's still in the same spot as before but I followed the directions to a tee.
Also I bought new wires rotor and cap. But the car still does the same thing.


So my questions are
1.what is that noise
2. If I was off by 1 tooth and fixed it would it still do this until I go back to my tuner
3.why the he'll do I get a code 43. It comes and goes ever since I bought my car
4. Will going from victor x to skunk2 pro give me more torque and hp. I'm only Erving to 8k

 

Here's the video. This the best sounding one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z93gb...e_gdata_player

 

a friend also told me to recheck my valve lash. i think if i just did it 40 miles ago it should be fine. plus my compression is pretty much 160 all the way accross.

 

Bump I still need some input

 

you're on the right track, i'd guess valves are not adjusted right and/or you're timing is way off. If he adjusted the timing and it had an impact i'd start there. Maybe have someone who really knows honda's double check your timing and valve lash?

 

Ya I think I'm going to call the homie up and see if he could double check the timing.

 

Its hard to tell but in the video and judging by the rpm it only makes a noise when in Vtec. My first suggestion is to check the LMA's in the valve train. also check oil pressure at Vtec switch.

definately sounds like valves or pat of the valve train.

 

Lma?
Lower motion assy. Like everything under the cam

 

dont know if this helps but heres the dyno graph.


By grnhatch at 2010-09-09


By grnhatch at 2010-09-09

 

By grnhatch at 2010-09-09


By grnhatch at 2010-09-09

 

yes. I should have given better direction . I would check the entire assembly for correct installation/clearances etc.

 

i had a similar problem with my car asked all kinds of questions about why i made no power and got no answers so ill tell you this

my problem was my cams were out of degree from the amount of material taken off the head and they are stock gsr cams

my exhaust was out 17 deg (retarded)
and my intake was out by 7 deg

once this was found it was re-set correctly and i jumped 180hp ( no joke)

my symptons were

lack of power
running really hot
car seemed to fall off power at higher RPM
torque dropped 40trq after 5500RPM

 

are you using a 22t gsr water pump and also a gsr timing belt?

 

Ya now I have to look up diagrams on the complete head assy. I was also told maybe the machine shop didn't lock my loggers for vtec. ( don't know how to say it). He told me to take plug out on the front of the head where vtec oil goes and blow air thru there with my compressor and see if all the lodgers lock into place.

 

I was also thinking about that too. When I bought it it was port & polished so former owner probably head head resurfaced than I had it resurfaced when tensioner broke. Then with the rebuild I had the block decked and they might have resurfaced the head then too. But I would need to degree the cam to find out right? Or is there another way to tell. Finding this out could help me alot.

 

Ya it says 22t right on it. And I bought a gsr belt for it when I had the tensioner break so I know that's correct

 

Ok I was reading up on changing the lma's. Now don't those keep constant pressure on the rockers? If so what actually only moves when vtec is activated. I want to also clean and inspect those parts.

 

Ok so my first day off and I tried to do everything I could to fix the problem. Last week before I started this thread I reset my timing by using the pulley marks and was pretty sure it was dead on. Well today I went further and took off the pulley and lined up the sprocket to the oil pump mark. From the looks of it I was a full tooth off. And now there is less slack in my belt also. I also took out the loss motion assy. Everything seemed to look fine. I also pushed all the little lockers on the vtec rocker and they all moved smooth. Then I did another valve adjustment. Only about 5 were off so I took care of those. I also put on the skunk2 intake manifold. With a b20 throttle body.

Now here's where the problems start. The intake manifold is longer than the victor x so now my charge piping doesn't fit. And the throttle cable is way too long to fit the throttle body. It wants to wrap around 2x but it just doesn't work out.

So now I'm ready to start my car and see if the problem is fixed but I need help with the throttle cable situation. I guess I can drive it to the muffler shop to get a new charge pipe made, but that will be on hold until the cable is worked out.

 

Bump

 

what are your af ratios?

 

If you where off a tooth than that was the problem. I Put a swap in a boys car
idled good but ran like **** would barely pull out of the driveway. I hooked up a timing light and relized something was not right. I then checked the timing belt and it was off a tooth. He later told me him and his dad put on a new timing belt before they brought the engine to the shop

 

I don't know my af ratios. Only what's on that graph. But my tuner said he had it running fat right now until I get it fixed.

 

When it was off a tooth it still ran completely fine until vtec hit. But maybe dohc and sohc act a little different when it comes to timing. But I won't know if my problem is fixed until I get this thing to run.