Ok so my car's been sputtering randomly, and shutting off on me while out driving, so I'm troubleshooting here but upon my first troubleshooting step I'm stumped (greattttttt) and hoping someone with a bit more knowledge than me can help decipher this...

So upon this image...


I did what it said, but for testing the A and B terminals, I end up with 1.0 not 0.6-0.8 and I'm not sure if since it's more about 80 degrees out not 68 as per that image says its conditions were when testing, if that makes a difference or not... But even more astonishing is that when I checked for resistance between the secondary winding terminal and A(+) the MM stays on 0 and doesn't change at all... Now if my secondary winding terminal wasn't giving out any ohm's whatsoever, would the car still start, drive, and run even..??

Just to clarify I'm doing this right, here are some pics I snapped so you can tell me I have my multimeter on the right setting or not, and to show the reading so I know I'm reading it right...



I have a spare dizzy laying around that I dissected a while ago to make the one I have in now work, but it's been over 2 years since than and I've had no issues at all.. I know the coil is interchangeable but I did a check on the ICM and it seems that the B7 and Z6 had a different ICM, but would that still be interchangeable as well..??

 

Remove the coil and do the tests indoors in a cool room.

Set the multimeter on the 200 Ohm scale for the A/B test or on the 20K scale for the A/secondary test.

 

D15B7s often used a hitachi igniter, Z6s often (possibly always) used an OKI igniter, they work the same, but the brackets are slightly different so try to get the bracket that goes with the igniter. If you can't get the right bracket you can modify the one you have to fit.

 

It was on 200 for the A/B test and still came up with a 1.0, and so did my spare that's in my room in a box... And on the 20K scale it came back in the 16K area so I'm guessing both of my coils are good, correct..???

 

Thanks for that as well bro, one is black and one is grey so I'm sure what you're saying is consistent with what I have....

Budget is running really tight and all the JY's around here that have Honda's or Acura's have been ravaged and are basically just shells sitting there lol, so my only choice would be to buy a new one and if I recall they were like $80 more than I got to spend on one haha... I guess it's time for a lil DIY dizzy fix, hopefully it's not as bad as it was when I put the 2 dizzys together 2 years ago...

 

The first coil test reading is out of spec, suggesting that the coil is bad.

 

You mean the coil reading from A & B at 1.0/ohm with the MM set on 200

 

Yes, the A/B reading is clearly out of spec. If either reading is out of spec, the coil is bad.

 

So the one I have in room is bad as well, correct..?? I was just assuming since the spec sheet said that was at 68 degrees, even inside my house its on 75 so that's almost 10 degrees warmer, in your personal opinion would a 10 degree difference in temperature be enough to raise the OHM reading 0.2 over spec..?

 

Put the coil in your refrigerator for a few minutes and then do the tests again. Don't leave it in there too long as it may get too cold.

 

Give it a shot right now...

 

Hey Ron do you have a schematic on testing the ICM..?? Thanks man, tons of help as always from you..

 

Most people have an auto parts store test their igniter unit/ICM because the tests are a more complicated. With that said, the Tegger site describes how to test the igniter unit:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...r-testing.html

 

Holy ****... That's quite a few more connectors that I have handy lol, maybe I'll call around and see what can be done... Napa, Autozone, and Advanced Auto are all I have around here hopefully one of them does this test... Thanks for info man, didn't have time to test coil last night so I just threw it in the fridge, post results in about 5 min...

 

One thing I'd also like to mention is that, a few times (not every time) when my car would hesitate to start or stall while driving/idling I'd get a CEL for #20 I believe, Electrical Load Detector... The CEL would turn back on solid when I put the key back in, the fuel pump wouldn't prime, main relay wouldn't click, but if I let the car sit for about 2-3 minutes and tried again the light would go off, relay would click, pump would prime, car would start...??

 

Ignition coil that I had just taken out of the fridge says (A/B) 0.9 and (A/Secondary Winding Terminal) 15.82..

 

The A/B reading is still out of the normal range. The coil may be bad.

Is the spare coil you have identical or for a different distributor?

 

its your fuse box... trust. get another one from the junk...

 

Yeah it is out of spec huh =( SMH...

But to be honest I'm not sure which one I ended up using, when I first did my swap the dizzy was actin up so I took my B7 dizzy and Z6 dizzy both apart, and just messed around until my car started and ran fine, and 2 years later I've not had any issues until now... So theres a good chance the coil in the dizzy may be out of my B7 (as well as the ignitor) and this one I'm testing is a Z6 or vise versa... The coil in my car is grey and this one I'm testing out of the car is black and reads TC-O8A...

 

Fuse box..?? Someone else in another thread I had read told someone else it was there fuse box as well, but is there any justification for it..?? Or a way to test it..??

 

Just for comparison, if you test your other coil after a similar brief chill in the fridge, what readings does it yield?

 

Do it right now... BRB...

 

On a separate note, some auto parts stores will test your igniter units free of charge.

 

idk what way to test the fuse box. but thats where the ELD is located. and thats what ive found to be the problem before.

 

in other hand, keep testing the coils.