JDM_SOHC

Ok so the one I just took out of my car fresh out of the dizzy tested (A/B) 1.4 and (A/Secondary Winding Terminal) 15.64

I'm putting it in the fridge for a minute or two to cool it down and will retest but that one is clearly out of spec between (A/B) though...

JDM_SOHC

Ok so now both of them are between 0.9-1.1 (A/B) and between 15.2-16.4 (A/Secondary Winding Terminal) I'm taking a guess at maybe my MM not being 100% accurate (it's a GreenWell DM-40) but it just seems odd that both of them are in the exact same range (out of spec) meaning they're both bad or at least not functioning 100% when I never had a coil issue with either of them... What would be more likely to cause a car to shut off @ idle and not want to start again I guess is my main question I have to seek down now... Any other tests you can think of I'd be more than happy to try... I dont have those roach clip lookin terminals or I'd test the main relay, and I'm sure I'm getting fuel pressure because my car cold starts almost every single time I start it, it's about 85% of the time hesitant to start when it's hot out or after I get done driving it, although it has hesitated to start on me some mornings around 5:30 and it's not hot out at that time so maybe heat doesn't play an issue at all, just need to keep on troubleshooting I guess... Just sucks when you're on a budget because I can't afford to just go buy things and hope they work FML...

EJeff8

You sure you're on the right Ohm setting?

JDM_SOHC

Also sometimes when I'm driving it will kind of buck/bog for a split second than continue on like normal, and like all my other issues this may happen 6-7 times in a 30 minute drive or it may not happen at all in that same driving distance, I wish it was something that threw a damn CEL so I could just fix it and be on with my life lol...

JDM_SOHC

200 for the (A/B) test and 20K for the (A/Secondary Winding Terminal)...??

Former User

You should not ignore the hard data. Both coils have A/B readings that are out of spec. If you suspect your multimeter, then borrow one from a friend, though I guess that your multimeter is fine given that the other coil reading is within spec.

EE_Chris

With your multimeter on the 200 ohm scale, touch your meter leads together. Whatever it displays, make sure to subtract this off what you read when making the measurement on the actual coil.

JDM_SOHC

True indeed, I moved to a new area where we don't know anyone really so I guess my only option is to just take'm to Autozone and see if they can test them, although I'm not sure if they perform OHM readings there...

Thanks for this tip, ironically enough the reading was 0.2-0.4 so that would put both my coils in spec if I'm not mistaken...

Former User

Contrary to old analog multimeters, resistance measurements from digital multimeters shouldn't require zero calibration. Are your multimeter batteries low? If so, replace the batteries and redo the tests.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

You're testing it right, get another coil bro.

Unless that multimeter has been dropped a bunch of times and/or the batteries
are bad I see no reason not to trust it.

Precisely.



.

EE_Chris

We're talking about a spec of 1 ohm with meter leads being .1-.2ohm, that's an extra 10-20% not accounted for.

http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/87______umeng0800.pdf

Page 20.

Former User

You have documented a valid point. A small multimeter error clearly becomes large for low Ohm measurements and therefore must be zeroed out for the A/B coil resistance test. Thank you for the correction.

I mistakenly believed that this was not an issue because the manual for my particular digital multimeter does not mention it, though the Specifications section states that, on the lowest Ohm scale, readings have 0.1 Ohm resolution and 1.2% accuracy. I will now check what the Ohm reading is when I touch the two meter probes together. I suspect it will read 0.1-0.2 Ohms as you said.

NroDaBoss1

I got 0.9 a/b
and 12.34 on a/2nd